0Tom@Dewitt

Well after many different concepts and designs I really feel we have a better mouse trap here. I looked at all the oil adpaters out there and tried to create something better. Our new adapter features large 3/4-16 ports, an oil sender port, a 10 psi bypass valve, and two extra tapping ports for supercharge oil. In order to get all this stuff into one common block, it grew to 2.2" thick. This might be a problem with some brands of headers.

Does everyone use headers?
What brand is most common?
What clearence (block to header) do you have?

I thought we had every issue licked but then this came up. If we have to, I'll go back to the drawing board, but I really like the idea of having a bypass valve in the design.

0Tom@Dewitt

ttt

RAFTRACER

How much ???? I am going to be needing one of these and a radiator / EOC soon. These could be a problem on some header manufacturers , but not all of them I hope. I have had 11 + sets of different headers on my car, they are all a little different.

0Tom@Dewitt

The complete kit, which includes the manifold assembly above, plus the stainless steel aeroquip hoses and fittings is $530.

I agree with you on the number of different headers out there and if this doesn't work with anyone of them, we need to look at a re-design. I want it to work with everything. How much room to you have between the engine and the headers?

davidfarmer

best one I've seen comes from wheel-to-wheel. Puts the oil temp sender close to the headers, but they all seem to.

0Tom@Dewitt

That one is great but like all the others, it has no bypass. Without a bypass, you can get some pretty high back pressures at high rpm

VetteDrmr

Tom,

I've installed an oil cooler system on a Z06 with LG LTs and the install was very tight compared to a stock C5 exhaust. The adapter I used was an XMS piece, very nicely done and not much more than an inch in width.

I checked my oil pressure drops before/after the install, and from 1k to 5k rpm the pressure drop never exceeded 2-3 psi (basically within the accuracy range of the sensor IMO). This was on a stock LS-1 (mine), running -8 lines through a thermostat. So I'm not sure what the value of the bypass valve is.

Obviously modded motors running a lot of oil pressure and/or really high rpm could be a different story.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Cobra4B

I'm running Kooks LTs.

Umrswimr

I used vettedrmr's installation instrucitons for my installation and I agree 100000%- that **** is TIGHT. I ended up hacking a wrench in half (aka, the poor-man's "shorty") to get all the lines tightned up. IMHO- your adapter is probably NOT going to fit with LT headers.

I would suspect that most racers that will be installing your adapter will have headers. Mine are LG Pro LT's.

mathia

Hi Tom,

I purchased your radiator with EOC and the hose kit during the group purchase. I don't currently have long tube headers but plan on adding them in the future. I really appreciate that you're taking the time to design the block adaptor right. BTW, I got the radiator last week and it looks great!

0Tom@Dewitt

I acknowledge all headers differ and in some cases, this adapter may not fit. However, it does have a ton of advantages over all the others on the market. While the feedback on this thread was somewhat negitive, the same post on C5 tech was mostly positive regarding the fit. Here's a link if you haven't seen it

C5 tech link

For example the W2W one above isn't the BEST on the market. It uses NPT threads for the major fittings. NPT is more likely to leak than a o'ring seal SAE port and it involves big pipe wrenchs and a vice on your new parts. The temp sender port looks like it comes from the bottom and that's going to be a long stretch for the wiring to get all the way down there. But the biggest problem I see with it is the fact the sender probe is blocking the main flow path and creating a lot of restriction.