Car Care
11-13-2004, 02:22 PM
#1
Racer
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Car Care
Can someone please post a very General guide of how to detail their car. Using steps like this. Name step and what to use.
1. Wash car using Meguiars Car wash or whatever you use
2. Dry using leather towel or shammy??
Continue steps and thanks for any help. Bill
1. Wash car using Meguiars Car wash or whatever you use
2. Dry using leather towel or shammy??
Continue steps and thanks for any help. Bill
11-13-2004, 03:18 PM
#2
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Snake11eyeS
Can someone please post a very General guide of how to detail their car. Using steps like this. Name step and what to use.
1. Wash car using Meguiars Car wash or whatever you use
2. Dry using leather towel or shammy??
Continue steps and thanks for any help. Bill
1. Wash car using Meguiars Car wash or whatever you use
2. Dry using leather towel or shammy??
Continue steps and thanks for any help. Bill
1. Wheels --- Make sure the wheels are cool to the touch, and wash with a 100% cotton towel or microfiber towel and use wheel cleaner that is not made with lye or acid as most store bought varieties are. Dont forget to scrub the tires to remove any dressing. (Griots Garage Wheel Cleaner, P21S Wheel Gel)
2. Wash --- preparing the surface for prep work always start with removing surface dust and dirt quickly with a finish safe cleaner. DO NOT USE DISHWASHING SOAP. Wash with 100% cotton towel, Chenille or microfiber mitt, that has some nap to remove dirt up and away from the finish. Wash top to bottom and it is suggested that you water each panel so soap will not dry into finish. At the end you will want to take off any hose nozzle/spray and allow water to sheet of finish by moving along each panel. (Pinnacle, Griots, P21S, Wolfgang, NXT)
3. Clay --- using clay to remove surface imperfections that are not easily seen by the eye is crutial. While car is wet you will spritz each panel with the clay lubricant and then rub the clay over the finish directly across each panel. When it stumbles, you will want to go over that area until smooth. Car wash soap can be used also, but clay lubricant appears slippery-ier so use the included fluid 1st. Then rewash prior to next step to remove any clay material and unlodged dirt off the finish. (Pinnacle Poly Clay, Clay Majic , Mothers)
4. Drying ---It is time to properly dry the car. Some like chamois and synthetic towels (Absorber), but the modern marvel a WAFFLE WEAVE microfiber towel makes quick drying and nearly a drop of missed water. Dry from top down, and do not forget doorjambs, trunk area, under hood, and other hidden places. I also like to use a compressor to blow out water from certain cracks but prefer to leave my leaf blower to the lawn. Use seperate towel for wheels and exhaust tips. (Cobra Waffle Weave)
5. Polish --- This is where we determine the damage to the finish and what is needed to bring back the shine. Each polish line has different degrees of abrasiveness and you ALWAYS want to use the lightest product to get the job done. Also get a roll of the blue painters tape, as you can easily cover badges and emblems so as to not damage or polish them by accident. Another good purchase is a random orbital polisher (Porter Cable 7224, 7336) as it will provide the heat and power to remove some minor spiderwebbing, marring, and scratches within the clearcoat. Leave the rotary buffer to a pro as it "can" cut into the clearcoat quickly. Always polish following the panel as wind would blow over it. Polish On, Polish Off. (Menzerna , Einszett, Poorboys Polishes)
6. Glaze --- This is the stage that will be omitted when using a sealant versus a wax. (One known exception Menerna FMJ Sealant). This is making the paint look as wet as possible and filling in any minor scratches that were missed or not removed. This product is temporary in nature as it only "fills" these minor imperfections to make them less noticable to the naked eye. (Menzerna, Mequires)
7. Sealant and/or Wax --- This is where you protect the prep work you did prior. All that claying, polishing, and glaze needs to be protected by a wax or sealant. Both products are very different in use / outcome / application.
a. Wax -- Natural use of carnuba to protect the finish. Item leaves finish looking wet and adds the addition of depth to the finish. It has a relatively short life unless kept up through additional layers and detaling sprays (see below). (Pinnacle Souveran or Sig Series, P21S, Poorboys EX)
b. Sealant --this product is synthetic in nature, and typically in two fashions. Poly (water based) or Acrylic and commonly also referred to as paint protectants. Typically it has a very reflective nature but sometimes with the look being described as plasticy or 2-Dimensional. Always very bright and clean , and the products biggest benefit is that its life span easily doubles/triples that of a carnuba. (Zaino, Klasse, Four Star, Wolfgang, Poorboys EX-P, Blackfire, Menzerna)
Please note that you can always use a sealant first, and a carnuba for final effect over it but you would NOT want to do so the other way. Sealants do NOT like to adhere to glazes, oils, and carnubas in most fashions. Removal of either product with microfiber rags is usually best and an assortment of fine boarshair brushes make easy work of cracks and corners where wax/sealant is missed.
8. Detailing Sprays / Quick Detailers / Spray Waxes --- I have not found a product line that does not like the use of its detailing spray. It helps with minor cleanups and fingerprints, adding protection, and in some cases gloss and UV protection. But these products are very different in nature, use , and outcome also.
a. Quick Detailers --- normally this is a fancy bottle of car wash soap diluted with distilled water for quick cleanups. Sometimes the use of alcohol also to make evaporation quickly to reduce markings on surface. Great for birdie doo-doo (Mother Showtime)
b. Detailing Sprays --- these products usually add some UV prtection to the finish and "boost" the wax or sealant. This product is one of the most VALUABLE products to longevity of finish and to keep detailing to minimum. Use after each weekly wash and you will NOT have to "prep" each each or month. Normally boosts wax and sealant to twice its normal protection. Spray and wipe, it will dry almost immediately and without need for buffing.(Pinnacles Crystal Mist--wax, Zaino Z6, Sonus Spritz --for sealants)
c. Spray Waxes --- these products are typically liquid wax in a suspension. Very light on application but must be buffed off seperately as they will cloud up like traditional waxes. Obviously these add more protection to current wax/sealant, but will require more time for removal. Definetely "boosts" the level or protection but best left for a monthly addition when needed. (Poorboys, NXT)
9. Windows --- not that you have removed all waxing, and any tape it is time to remove any dust from sealant/wax and minor overspray from outside glass. Using a good quality linen napkin always worked best for me to reduce streaking, and done out of the sun. (SprayWax Glass Cleaner, Stoners Invisible Glass)
10. Tires --- wow we cleaned them along time ago, and hopefully dried them while drying the car (with a seperate towel of course) It is time to polish (Simichrome, Mothers) any wheel that is not clearcoated, or to polish (same as above products for paint) any clearcoated wheel. Then you will want to seal them for protection and I always suggest a sealant as the heat and dirt your wheels see with fast destroy any carnuba wax. Use the same sealants as above that are already in your aresonal. (Zaino, Klasse , Wolfgang). Hey dont forget the tailpipes, as we can do them the same time and same way.
Now again we did not hit on the interior, which should be done prior to exterior. We have also not discussed other tricks like suspension, tirewells (Griots Undercarriage Spray), and the engine. Most of the above hints can be used in those other areas as well. Find a product line you like , experiment, and dont be afraid to get your fingers dirty while cleaning the car !
Where should we get all these fine products, well through internet and supporting vendors when possible. www.autogeek.net (coupon code "corvetteforum" always gives additional 10% off) www.zainobros.com www.premiumautocare.com (coupon code "detailcity" offers extra 10% off) www.detailersparadise.com and even www.properautocare.com
Last edited by Killrwheels; 11-13-2004 at 03:32 PM.
11-13-2004, 05:29 PM
#3
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Thanks, for all the great information. I have most of that stuff (which I bought today) for my first detail tomorrow. Will have to run out and pick up a couple more things. I like the idea of the undercarraige spray will give it a try. Bill
11-13-2004, 08:41 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
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CI 6-7, 9-10 Veteran
Great job Killr, couldn't of said it better myself. I especially liked your not mentioning products. As we all know we all have different results with similar items.
11-13-2004, 09:22 PM
#6
Safety Car
Originally Posted by C5corvetteman
ZAINO'S
Need to apply a coat to Z5 followed by Z2 mixed with ZFX...
Need to apply a coat to Z5 followed by Z2 mixed with ZFX...
11-14-2004, 05:55 AM
#7
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Killrwheels
I will NOT name products specifically , as it always starts a war. I will however make some suggestions in paranthesis for you to consider. As will butholes, we all have opinions ..... and I will stay to the exterior as we should have already been in the car "before" the outside is done.
1. Wheels --- Make sure the wheels are cool to the touch, and wash with a 100% cotton towel or microfiber towel and use wheel cleaner that is not made with lye or acid as most store bought varieties are. Dont forget to scrub the tires to remove any dressing. (Griots Garage Wheel Cleaner, P21S Wheel Gel)
2. Wash --- preparing the surface for prep work always start with removing surface dust and dirt quickly with a finish safe cleaner. DO NOT USE DISHWASHING SOAP. Wash with 100% cotton towel, Chenille or microfiber mitt, that has some nap to remove dirt up and away from the finish. Wash top to bottom and it is suggested that you water each panel so soap will not dry into finish. At the end you will want to take off any hose nozzle/spray and allow water to sheet of finish by moving along each panel. (Pinnacle, Griots, P21S, Wolfgang, NXT)
3. Clay --- using clay to remove surface imperfections that are not easily seen by the eye is crutial. While car is wet you will spritz each panel with the clay lubricant and then rub the clay over the finish directly across each panel. When it stumbles, you will want to go over that area until smooth. Car wash soap can be used also, but clay lubricant appears slippery-ier so use the included fluid 1st. Then rewash prior to next step to remove any clay material and unlodged dirt off the finish. (Pinnacle Poly Clay, Clay Majic , Mothers)
4. Drying ---It is time to properly dry the car. Some like chamois and synthetic towels (Absorber), but the modern marvel a WAFFLE WEAVE microfiber towel makes quick drying and nearly a drop of missed water. Dry from top down, and do not forget doorjambs, trunk area, under hood, and other hidden places. I also like to use a compressor to blow out water from certain cracks but prefer to leave my leaf blower to the lawn. Use seperate towel for wheels and exhaust tips. (Cobra Waffle Weave)
5. Polish --- This is where we determine the damage to the finish and what is needed to bring back the shine. Each polish line has different degrees of abrasiveness and you ALWAYS want to use the lightest product to get the job done. Also get a roll of the blue painters tape, as you can easily cover badges and emblems so as to not damage or polish them by accident. Another good purchase is a random orbital polisher (Porter Cable 7224, 7336) as it will provide the heat and power to remove some minor spiderwebbing, marring, and scratches within the clearcoat. Leave the rotary buffer to a pro as it "can" cut into the clearcoat quickly. Always polish following the panel as wind would blow over it. Polish On, Polish Off. (Menzerna , Einszett, Poorboys Polishes)
6. Glaze --- This is the stage that will be omitted when using a sealant versus a wax. (One known exception Menerna FMJ Sealant). This is making the paint look as wet as possible and filling in any minor scratches that were missed or not removed. This product is temporary in nature as it only "fills" these minor imperfections to make them less noticable to the naked eye. (Menzerna, Mequires)
7. Sealant and/or Wax --- This is where you protect the prep work you did prior. All that claying, polishing, and glaze needs to be protected by a wax or sealant. Both products are very different in use / outcome / application.
a. Wax -- Natural use of carnuba to protect the finish. Item leaves finish looking wet and adds the addition of depth to the finish. It has a relatively short life unless kept up through additional layers and detaling sprays (see below). (Pinnacle Souveran or Sig Series, P21S, Poorboys EX)
b. Sealant --this product is synthetic in nature, and typically in two fashions. Poly (water based) or Acrylic and commonly also referred to as paint protectants. Typically it has a very reflective nature but sometimes with the look being described as plasticy or 2-Dimensional. Always very bright and clean , and the products biggest benefit is that its life span easily doubles/triples that of a carnuba. (Zaino, Klasse, Four Star, Wolfgang, Poorboys EX-P, Blackfire, Menzerna)
Please note that you can always use a sealant first, and a carnuba for final effect over it but you would NOT want to do so the other way. Sealants do NOT like to adhere to glazes, oils, and carnubas in most fashions. Removal of either product with microfiber rags is usually best and an assortment of fine boarshair brushes make easy work of cracks and corners where wax/sealant is missed.
8. Detailing Sprays / Quick Detailers / Spray Waxes --- I have not found a product line that does not like the use of its detailing spray. It helps with minor cleanups and fingerprints, adding protection, and in some cases gloss and UV protection. But these products are very different in nature, use , and outcome also.
a. Quick Detailers --- normally this is a fancy bottle of car wash soap diluted with distilled water for quick cleanups. Sometimes the use of alcohol also to make evaporation quickly to reduce markings on surface. Great for birdie doo-doo (Mother Showtime)
b. Detailing Sprays --- these products usually add some UV prtection to the finish and "boost" the wax or sealant. This product is one of the most VALUABLE products to longevity of finish and to keep detailing to minimum. Use after each weekly wash and you will NOT have to "prep" each each or month. Normally boosts wax and sealant to twice its normal protection. Spray and wipe, it will dry almost immediately and without need for buffing.(Pinnacles Crystal Mist--wax, Zaino Z6, Sonus Spritz --for sealants)
c. Spray Waxes --- these products are typically liquid wax in a suspension. Very light on application but must be buffed off seperately as they will cloud up like traditional waxes. Obviously these add more protection to current wax/sealant, but will require more time for removal. Definetely "boosts" the level or protection but best left for a monthly addition when needed. (Poorboys, NXT)
9. Windows --- not that you have removed all waxing, and any tape it is time to remove any dust from sealant/wax and minor overspray from outside glass. Using a good quality linen napkin always worked best for me to reduce streaking, and done out of the sun. (SprayWax Glass Cleaner, Stoners Invisible Glass)
10. Tires --- wow we cleaned them along time ago, and hopefully dried them while drying the car (with a seperate towel of course) It is time to polish (Simichrome, Mothers) any wheel that is not clearcoated, or to polish (same as above products for paint) any clearcoated wheel. Then you will want to seal them for protection and I always suggest a sealant as the heat and dirt your wheels see with fast destroy any carnuba wax. Use the same sealants as above that are already in your aresonal. (Zaino, Klasse , Wolfgang). Hey dont forget the tailpipes, as we can do them the same time and same way.
Now again we did not hit on the interior, which should be done prior to exterior. We have also not discussed other tricks like suspension, tirewells (Griots Undercarriage Spray), and the engine. Most of the above hints can be used in those other areas as well. Find a product line you like , experiment, and dont be afraid to get your fingers dirty while cleaning the car !
Where should we get all these fine products, well through internet and supporting vendors when possible. www.autogeek.net (coupon code "corvetteforum" always gives additional 10% off) www.zainobros.com www.premiumautocare.com (coupon code "detailcity" offers extra 10% off) www.detailersparadise.com and even www.properautocare.com
1. Wheels --- Make sure the wheels are cool to the touch, and wash with a 100% cotton towel or microfiber towel and use wheel cleaner that is not made with lye or acid as most store bought varieties are. Dont forget to scrub the tires to remove any dressing. (Griots Garage Wheel Cleaner, P21S Wheel Gel)
2. Wash --- preparing the surface for prep work always start with removing surface dust and dirt quickly with a finish safe cleaner. DO NOT USE DISHWASHING SOAP. Wash with 100% cotton towel, Chenille or microfiber mitt, that has some nap to remove dirt up and away from the finish. Wash top to bottom and it is suggested that you water each panel so soap will not dry into finish. At the end you will want to take off any hose nozzle/spray and allow water to sheet of finish by moving along each panel. (Pinnacle, Griots, P21S, Wolfgang, NXT)
3. Clay --- using clay to remove surface imperfections that are not easily seen by the eye is crutial. While car is wet you will spritz each panel with the clay lubricant and then rub the clay over the finish directly across each panel. When it stumbles, you will want to go over that area until smooth. Car wash soap can be used also, but clay lubricant appears slippery-ier so use the included fluid 1st. Then rewash prior to next step to remove any clay material and unlodged dirt off the finish. (Pinnacle Poly Clay, Clay Majic , Mothers)
4. Drying ---It is time to properly dry the car. Some like chamois and synthetic towels (Absorber), but the modern marvel a WAFFLE WEAVE microfiber towel makes quick drying and nearly a drop of missed water. Dry from top down, and do not forget doorjambs, trunk area, under hood, and other hidden places. I also like to use a compressor to blow out water from certain cracks but prefer to leave my leaf blower to the lawn. Use seperate towel for wheels and exhaust tips. (Cobra Waffle Weave)
5. Polish --- This is where we determine the damage to the finish and what is needed to bring back the shine. Each polish line has different degrees of abrasiveness and you ALWAYS want to use the lightest product to get the job done. Also get a roll of the blue painters tape, as you can easily cover badges and emblems so as to not damage or polish them by accident. Another good purchase is a random orbital polisher (Porter Cable 7224, 7336) as it will provide the heat and power to remove some minor spiderwebbing, marring, and scratches within the clearcoat. Leave the rotary buffer to a pro as it "can" cut into the clearcoat quickly. Always polish following the panel as wind would blow over it. Polish On, Polish Off. (Menzerna , Einszett, Poorboys Polishes)
6. Glaze --- This is the stage that will be omitted when using a sealant versus a wax. (One known exception Menerna FMJ Sealant). This is making the paint look as wet as possible and filling in any minor scratches that were missed or not removed. This product is temporary in nature as it only "fills" these minor imperfections to make them less noticable to the naked eye. (Menzerna, Mequires)
7. Sealant and/or Wax --- This is where you protect the prep work you did prior. All that claying, polishing, and glaze needs to be protected by a wax or sealant. Both products are very different in use / outcome / application.
a. Wax -- Natural use of carnuba to protect the finish. Item leaves finish looking wet and adds the addition of depth to the finish. It has a relatively short life unless kept up through additional layers and detaling sprays (see below). (Pinnacle Souveran or Sig Series, P21S, Poorboys EX)
b. Sealant --this product is synthetic in nature, and typically in two fashions. Poly (water based) or Acrylic and commonly also referred to as paint protectants. Typically it has a very reflective nature but sometimes with the look being described as plasticy or 2-Dimensional. Always very bright and clean , and the products biggest benefit is that its life span easily doubles/triples that of a carnuba. (Zaino, Klasse, Four Star, Wolfgang, Poorboys EX-P, Blackfire, Menzerna)
Please note that you can always use a sealant first, and a carnuba for final effect over it but you would NOT want to do so the other way. Sealants do NOT like to adhere to glazes, oils, and carnubas in most fashions. Removal of either product with microfiber rags is usually best and an assortment of fine boarshair brushes make easy work of cracks and corners where wax/sealant is missed.
8. Detailing Sprays / Quick Detailers / Spray Waxes --- I have not found a product line that does not like the use of its detailing spray. It helps with minor cleanups and fingerprints, adding protection, and in some cases gloss and UV protection. But these products are very different in nature, use , and outcome also.
a. Quick Detailers --- normally this is a fancy bottle of car wash soap diluted with distilled water for quick cleanups. Sometimes the use of alcohol also to make evaporation quickly to reduce markings on surface. Great for birdie doo-doo (Mother Showtime)
b. Detailing Sprays --- these products usually add some UV prtection to the finish and "boost" the wax or sealant. This product is one of the most VALUABLE products to longevity of finish and to keep detailing to minimum. Use after each weekly wash and you will NOT have to "prep" each each or month. Normally boosts wax and sealant to twice its normal protection. Spray and wipe, it will dry almost immediately and without need for buffing.(Pinnacles Crystal Mist--wax, Zaino Z6, Sonus Spritz --for sealants)
c. Spray Waxes --- these products are typically liquid wax in a suspension. Very light on application but must be buffed off seperately as they will cloud up like traditional waxes. Obviously these add more protection to current wax/sealant, but will require more time for removal. Definetely "boosts" the level or protection but best left for a monthly addition when needed. (Poorboys, NXT)
9. Windows --- not that you have removed all waxing, and any tape it is time to remove any dust from sealant/wax and minor overspray from outside glass. Using a good quality linen napkin always worked best for me to reduce streaking, and done out of the sun. (SprayWax Glass Cleaner, Stoners Invisible Glass)
10. Tires --- wow we cleaned them along time ago, and hopefully dried them while drying the car (with a seperate towel of course) It is time to polish (Simichrome, Mothers) any wheel that is not clearcoated, or to polish (same as above products for paint) any clearcoated wheel. Then you will want to seal them for protection and I always suggest a sealant as the heat and dirt your wheels see with fast destroy any carnuba wax. Use the same sealants as above that are already in your aresonal. (Zaino, Klasse , Wolfgang). Hey dont forget the tailpipes, as we can do them the same time and same way.
Now again we did not hit on the interior, which should be done prior to exterior. We have also not discussed other tricks like suspension, tirewells (Griots Undercarriage Spray), and the engine. Most of the above hints can be used in those other areas as well. Find a product line you like , experiment, and dont be afraid to get your fingers dirty while cleaning the car !
Where should we get all these fine products, well through internet and supporting vendors when possible. www.autogeek.net (coupon code "corvetteforum" always gives additional 10% off) www.zainobros.com www.premiumautocare.com (coupon code "detailcity" offers extra 10% off) www.detailersparadise.com and even www.properautocare.com
11-14-2004, 09:33 AM
#8
Safety Car
Originally Posted by LS WON
In step 2 if you use Zaino you will be using Dawn a dishwashing detergent
Since Zaino has absolutely no cleaners in it, and that means you must PREP the surface properly first, the polish step will provide a perfect finish for which Zaino will easily adhere. The use of Dawn was provided by Sal because most weekend/backyard detailers (those clients that purchase Zaino and try for the first time without previous detailing knowledge) are simply the type to add a coat of something (product A) over another (product b) without making sure it can properly bond/adhere/cure to finish.
But in cases where you do NOT want to prep the car, and just want to try Zaino well, the easiest way is wipe off each panel with a mix of 70% isoproryl alcohol and 30% water. This can easily be limited to painted area's specifically. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover is another logical choice.
LEAVE DAWN TO THE DISHES !!!
Last edited by Killrwheels; 11-15-2004 at 06:43 PM.
11-14-2004, 09:30 PM
#9
Racer
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Finished Detail, Pinpoint Knicks
Just finished my first detail. Followed your steps Killr. Man what a workout. Car looks nice, but I expected great for all my hard work. What really got me mad was that when you get really close about 1 inch away you can see a couple really small knicks, size of pinpoint here and there. IS THIS NORMAL OR IS EVERYONES CAR COMPLETELY FLAWLESS. 
11-15-2004, 12:36 AM
#11
Team Owner
I had my suspicions about using Dawn for car washing
Originally Posted by Killrwheels
Actually NO you do not need to use Dawn. Zaino tells you to use Dawn diswashing liquid to remove any previous carnuba or oils on the paint. And while it CAN be done, in fact, it should NOT be done unless completely necessary. Dawn is extremely alkaline in nature and will dry out all weatherstripping and rubber surrounds.
Since Zaino has absolutely no cleaners in it, and that means you must PREP the surface properly first, the polish step will provide a perfect finish for which Zaino will easily adhere. The use of Dawn was provided by Sal because most inexperienced detailers are simply the type to add a coat of something (product A) over another (product b) without making sure it can properly bond/adhere/cure to finish.
But in cases where you do NOT want to prep the car, and just want to try Zaino well, the easiest way is wipe off each panel with a mix of 70% isoproryl alcohol and 30% water. This can easily be limited to painted area's specifically. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover is another logical choice.
LEAVE DAWN TO THE DISHES !!!
Since Zaino has absolutely no cleaners in it, and that means you must PREP the surface properly first, the polish step will provide a perfect finish for which Zaino will easily adhere. The use of Dawn was provided by Sal because most inexperienced detailers are simply the type to add a coat of something (product A) over another (product b) without making sure it can properly bond/adhere/cure to finish.
But in cases where you do NOT want to prep the car, and just want to try Zaino well, the easiest way is wipe off each panel with a mix of 70% isoproryl alcohol and 30% water. This can easily be limited to painted area's specifically. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover is another logical choice.
LEAVE DAWN TO THE DISHES !!!
11-15-2004, 07:12 AM
#12
Safety Car
Detailing is all about making your car look as good as it can, while hiding/reducing some of its flaws. Dings, deep scratches, and the like will never be completely removed by detailing alone.
LSWon --- if you really want a commercial wax stripper, there are two easily available and local body shops will be able to provide others. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover and Einszett Ackrysol (sp?).
LSWon --- if you really want a commercial wax stripper, there are two easily available and local body shops will be able to provide others. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover and Einszett Ackrysol (sp?).
11-15-2004, 10:54 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2004
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Quote: But this is a one-time application so it is ok but not to use Dawn on a regular car-washing basis that is what is in Zaino’s instructions. But if there was a commercial product out there that was available I would feel more comfortable with it than using the Dawn.
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I hope I'm not 'highjacking' this thread...
Killrwheels- great detailing outline
Paint Surface Cleaning:
Paint cleaner (Iz einzette Acrysol, Dupont’s Prepsol, Groit’s Paint Prep) will remove old wax, polish, silicones or polymer sealants to enable car care products to adhere (bond) to paint film surface or to prepare surfaces for repainting. It will not damage plastic lens (tail lights/side markers) or fabric convertible tops, rubber or vinyl surfaces, but try to avoid these areas
·Apply paint cleaner to a panel (i.e. hood) by spraying and let it soak for about 5 minutes
·With a clean damp 100% cotton towel lightly wipe over the area to remove residue
·When panel(s) have been cleaned use clean water and a hose to rinse thoroughly.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I hope I'm not 'highjacking' this thread...
Killrwheels- great detailing outline
Paint Surface Cleaning:
Paint cleaner (Iz einzette Acrysol, Dupont’s Prepsol, Groit’s Paint Prep) will remove old wax, polish, silicones or polymer sealants to enable car care products to adhere (bond) to paint film surface or to prepare surfaces for repainting. It will not damage plastic lens (tail lights/side markers) or fabric convertible tops, rubber or vinyl surfaces, but try to avoid these areas
·Apply paint cleaner to a panel (i.e. hood) by spraying and let it soak for about 5 minutes
·With a clean damp 100% cotton towel lightly wipe over the area to remove residue
·When panel(s) have been cleaned use clean water and a hose to rinse thoroughly.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
11-15-2004, 03:05 PM
#14
Team Owner
Great Info
Originally Posted by TOGWT
Quote: But this is a one-time application so it is ok but not to use Dawn on a regular car-washing basis that is what is in Zaino’s instructions. But if there was a commercial product out there that was available I would feel more comfortable with it than using the Dawn.
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I hope I'm not 'highjacking' this thread...
Killrwheels- great detailing outline
Paint Surface Cleaning:
Paint cleaner (Iz einzette Acrysol, Dupont’s Prepsol, Groit’s Paint Prep) will remove old wax, polish, silicones or polymer sealants to enable car care products to adhere (bond) to paint film surface or to prepare surfaces for repainting. It will not damage plastic lens (tail lights/side markers) or fabric convertible tops, rubber or vinyl surfaces, but try to avoid these areas
·Apply paint cleaner to a panel (i.e. hood) by spraying and let it soak for about 5 minutes
·With a clean damp 100% cotton towel lightly wipe over the area to remove residue
·When panel(s) have been cleaned use clean water and a hose to rinse thoroughly.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I hope I'm not 'highjacking' this thread...
Killrwheels- great detailing outline
Paint Surface Cleaning:
Paint cleaner (Iz einzette Acrysol, Dupont’s Prepsol, Groit’s Paint Prep) will remove old wax, polish, silicones or polymer sealants to enable car care products to adhere (bond) to paint film surface or to prepare surfaces for repainting. It will not damage plastic lens (tail lights/side markers) or fabric convertible tops, rubber or vinyl surfaces, but try to avoid these areas
·Apply paint cleaner to a panel (i.e. hood) by spraying and let it soak for about 5 minutes
·With a clean damp 100% cotton towel lightly wipe over the area to remove residue
·When panel(s) have been cleaned use clean water and a hose to rinse thoroughly.
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
11-15-2004, 06:49 PM
#15
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Killrwheels
Actually NO you do not need to use Dawn. Zaino tells you to use Dawn diswashing liquid to remove any previous carnuba or oils on the paint. And while it CAN be done, in fact, it should NOT be done unless completely necessary. Dawn is extremely alkaline in nature and will dry out all weatherstripping and rubber surrounds.
Since Zaino has absolutely no cleaners in it, and that means you must PREP the surface properly first, the polish step will provide a perfect finish for which Zaino will easily adhere. The use of Dawn was provided by Sal because most weekend/backyard detailers (those clients that purchase Zaino and try for the first time without previous detailing knowledge) are simply the type to add a coat of something (product A) over another (product b) without making sure it can properly bond/adhere/cure to finish.
But in cases where you do NOT want to prep the car, and just want to try Zaino well, the easiest way is wipe off each panel with a mix of 70% isoproryl alcohol and 30% water. This can easily be limited to painted area's specifically. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover is another logical choice.
LEAVE DAWN TO THE DISHES !!!
Since Zaino has absolutely no cleaners in it, and that means you must PREP the surface properly first, the polish step will provide a perfect finish for which Zaino will easily adhere. The use of Dawn was provided by Sal because most weekend/backyard detailers (those clients that purchase Zaino and try for the first time without previous detailing knowledge) are simply the type to add a coat of something (product A) over another (product b) without making sure it can properly bond/adhere/cure to finish.
But in cases where you do NOT want to prep the car, and just want to try Zaino well, the easiest way is wipe off each panel with a mix of 70% isoproryl alcohol and 30% water. This can easily be limited to painted area's specifically. 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover is another logical choice.
LEAVE DAWN TO THE DISHES !!!
