Rejex Curing Outdoors?
#1
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St. Jude Donor '13
Rejex Curing Outdoors?
Our 2009 looks pretty good, but it's over 3 years old and never been waxed.
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
#2
Our 2009 looks pretty good, but it's over 3 years old and never been waxed.
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
#3
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St. Jude Donor '13
Fair enough.
I'm asking because I have the time to do it now, and the car would look better and have some UV protection.
Rejex says to let it cure overnight inside, but I can't find any info on what happens if you don't do it that way.
If curing outside with dew and dust will merely cause the Rejex to need replacement sooner, that's ok. But if outside curing renders the stuff useless, or causes some problem where I would need to strip it off, that's a different story.
Someone has probably done it the wrong way, like I'm considering. Looking to find out what happened.
I'm asking because I have the time to do it now, and the car would look better and have some UV protection.
Rejex says to let it cure overnight inside, but I can't find any info on what happens if you don't do it that way.
If curing outside with dew and dust will merely cause the Rejex to need replacement sooner, that's ok. But if outside curing renders the stuff useless, or causes some problem where I would need to strip it off, that's a different story.
Someone has probably done it the wrong way, like I'm considering. Looking to find out what happened.
#4
Burning Brakes
I don't think it would hurt it. Dirt from trees or normal stuff that accumulates from being left outside can scratch the paint when you remove teh Rejex, but leaving it sit out won't hurt the rejex. Let the sun burn the dew off, then remove.
#5
Former Vendor
Rejex is a pure paint sealant (synthetic wax). It has no appreciable cleaners or polishes in it. You can certainly apply it in the morning, buff it off, and allow it to sit in the sun for the rest of the day. 24 hours is a general rule of thumb as many environments are different. If you get a good 8-12 hours of sun it will have cured completely. The next morning you could do a light wash, or rinseless wash, and apply a second coat and remove for even longer durability as desired.
#6
Our 2009 looks pretty good, but it's over 3 years old and never been waxed.
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
I'd like to wash & clay it, then apply Rejex.
Problem is, we're on vacation for a couple of months. I can do the application in shade (car wash bay), but then it would sit outside overnight and get a heavy layer of dew, plus some dust.
Under those conditions, is it worth while to Rejex, or should I skip it until we get home?
Yesterday, your Post #29 in General:
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"For the "brake dust is corrosive" issue:
I'm not big on washing my Corvette, and don't wax it very often. Too busy driving it, we put on 15k-20k miles per year. I have never put any wax, Rejex, Zaino, etc on my wheels. They often go for several weeks or more between washings, and I only wipe off all the brake dust while washing, two or three times per year. I do use the stock GM pads, which are Z51 for the 2006 and 2009.
With that kind of neglect, our 2001 went 5 years/66k miles on the painted base wheels, no evidence of corrosion or other damage from brake dust. When we cleaned them up for the trade in, they had only the small nicks and sandblasting you would expect for that many miles. Even the areas when stone nicks had chipped away the paint, showed only the minimal corrosion you would expect from driving around chicago.
Our 2006 had the polished factory wheels for 3 years/44k miles, no evidence of corrosion or damage when sold.
Our 2009 had the chrome Gumbys for about the first 20k miles, no evidence of corrosion or damage when replaced by painted factory split-spokes. The split-spokes now have about 22k miles and are doing just fine.
I'm not saying that you can't experience corrosion from brake dust, but it certainly has not been an issue on our (neglected) wheels."
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You have clearly stated what you'd done worked and don't have the ill effects as the rest of us and doing fine all this time, well...........
Come join the gang, its all good!
For myself, paint on body suffers the same fate as wheels. I for one treat it with the same care. Wash, clay, wash, polish, wash and Rejex per direction, then I can relax in between wash. If surface is justified to need more than a wash, then I repeat.
#7
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St. Jude Donor '13
Well, I was trying to say that brake dust doesn't seem to be having any corrosive effect on our wheels.
But I'd like the rest of the car to look better, and some UV protection would be a nice idea also.
BTW, here's the Rejex website:
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html
But I'd like the rest of the car to look better, and some UV protection would be a nice idea also.
BTW, here's the Rejex website:
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html
#8
Well, I was trying to say that brake dust doesn't seem to be having any corrosive effect on our wheels.
But I'd like the rest of the car to look better, and some UV protection would be a nice idea also.
BTW, here's the Rejex website:
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html
But I'd like the rest of the car to look better, and some UV protection would be a nice idea also.
BTW, here's the Rejex website:
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html
My vision is not what it used to be but with the help of sandwich bag, my front end, area behind wheel, rocker panel and hood suffered the most. BTW, beside salt air from the ocean, brake dust is everywhere where I live; after a light trade drizzle, I don't even want to think what chemical composition the mass landed on the car from the tires is.
As they say, YMMV, I guess in Chicago, brake dust and contaminants behave different!
#9
Race Director
Simply take the car to a professional detailer once a year for a daily driver. If you don't maintain the paint you most likely have allot of scratches swirls and spider webbing that would need to be corrected by a multi step polish, seal and wax. Check some professional detailers in your area, ask for references and inspect their work before you trust the Corvette to them.