duegatti

I'm considering a paint correction for my newly aquired 2003. I live about 35 miles east of Knoxville. I understand that many of these guys travel, and for my part I would be willing to drive and spend a night under the right circumstances.

Trushine in Knoxville?

Unique in Bristol?

I'm especially interested in peoples' first hand experience. I'm a little anxious to turn someone loose on my car.

Many thanks,

Joe

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Joe,

Consider doing it yourself. A good buffer and some polishes are a wise investment. I might suggest considering coming to Detailfest in Stuart, Florida in March of this year. Its a two-day fun and fact filled adventure. You should also consider purchasing Mike Phillips Detailing Book and or DVD. He is well regarded in the industry and makes it easy to understand.

http://www.autogeek.net/art-of-detai...back-book.html

Consider also visiting our forum at www.autogeekonline.net for help and wonderful information as it relates to techniques and products. You will also find some of the best local friends and professional detailers to help you on your quest.

duegatti

Well, as I try to learn all this stuff, I am thinking about it. I'm currently assuming that the car will not need a DA polisher often, and that I can forego getting one, and maintain the car without one. I'm having enough of a challenge figuring out that half of paint maintenance.

If I travel, take your course (which I would love to do), and buy a DA - that would be as costly as a good, professional job.

GoFast908Z

You can't go wrong with Eric @ Tru Shine Detailing and he's close by. He's one of the top guys in the industry and will take good care of you!

RaskyR1

Eric is your man!

Eric_Witt

Joe, I would be more then happy to take care of your vette for you. I can travel to your home and do everything from the comfort of your own garage. all that is required is a garage, garden hose spigot, and available power outlet. everything else, I take care of. please give me a call or email and we can get you taken care of. I dont want to spam the forum, so please visit my website for all contact info. Thanks for considering Tru Shine to care for your car. I look forward to hearing from you.

-Eric @ Tru Shine

Eric_Witt

Thanks for the heads up Jeff. you da man!

Thanks Chad. lol

Richie Carbone

Another vote for Eric. You won't be disappointed.

duegatti

Here's a copy of a PM I just sent to Eric, in case this can prompt continued discussion:

Eric,

Thanks alot for getting in touch. I want to let you know what I'm doing on my end, and how it might affect the timing if you're willing to come and do my car. Please critique my plan if something doesn't seem realistic to you.

I am trying to ensure that I will be able to preserve and maintain the results of your work. I've just received Autogeek-recommended supplies for a two-bucket car wash. I would like to avoid needing a DA polisher, and hope to maintain the paint with clay, paint cleaner, sealant and wax. I deeply hope to find products that will not leave solid, white, chalky residue, because I don't feel like cleaning that stuff up.

I also need to get some information about paint damage underneath the back edge of the convertible top, when it is raised. I want to make sure that there is no unintended contact in that area, so the problem doesn't return immediately. Perhaps it is normal wear for 9 years and 16k miles.

Thanks,

Joe

GoFast908Z

Joe,

The two bucket method is a great start. You will also need proper washing and drying media as well. Quality wash mitt and microfibers are vital to maintaining a swirl-free finish. Eric can advise you on both of these. Eric can also help you with what products will give you the protection and look that you want without any unwanted residue left behind.


The marks under the convertible top....I assume that is where the top makes contact with the paint, correct? Those marks are very likely too deep to ever remove safely. It is a constant abrasion point, the top continually flexes and puts pressure on the paint there. In order to remove it, you're likely going to have to repaint that section, and to prevent future marring by the top on the new paint, you'd need some paint protection film as a barrier between the top and the paint. Even with that, you may get some slight marks.

-Jeff

RaskyR1

On top of what Jeff has already pointed out you need to keep in mind that claying the paint may instill very fine marring too, and a light polishing afterward is recommended.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

You can certainly outlay several hundred dollars + on one professional detail session. Then with good washing and drying techniques you will avoid some marring and swirls but over time you will re-introduce them and need another session.

I suspect you will still want (or need) a buffer over time. The Vettes clearcoat is so hard that you will find hand polishing to be very little in outcome and rewards. Consider it over time and as expenses permit.

duegatti

Oh, I've got all the other stuff for washing and drying; I just used "two bucket" for shorthand.

I'm going to try to extract information from the forum regarding the paint marks under the convertible top - whether it is normal; if it is a sign of a poor fit that can be adjusted; etc.

duegatti

I'd be happy to omit the clay, then, and just use a hand applied paint cleaner. Or would you say that there is a hand applied paint cleaner that would handle the fine marring from the clay, or must that be addressed with a DA?

duegatti

I certainly won't say never on the buffer. I just feel that my learning curve is steep enough right now, down stream of the buffer, I thought I would establish my maintenance infrastructure first.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

I notice you have a convertible, did you pickup the Ragtopp or 303 kit for fabric roof ??? They are must have to keep top in new condition and extremely water resistant. You really only need to apply 2x's per year.

duegatti

Yes; yes . . . I am bleeding money now.

duegatti

I took a close look last night, and need to revise my assessment of these marks. They are not evenly distributed around the perimeter of the top; they are not primarily under the top. They are concentrated at the back driver's side corner, and they are mostly beyond the foot print of the top when it's up. So I now think that they are just light scratches put in by people hooking their fingers underneath that corner to pull the back of the top up. I think it's going to be o.k..

GoFast908Z

Good to hear. Did you set something up with Eric?

duegatti

We had a long talk today. He is looking for a Saturday and will let me know.