Glad to help. There are two basic kinds of polishes, one has chemical cleaning properties while others have micro-abrasive particles. Traditional polishes do not have protective properties like a wax or sealant will. The P21S Paintwork Cleanser is a great example of a chemical cleaning polish. Essentially it will help clean and shine the surface by removing surface contaminants, oxidation, etc. The Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish) is a great example of a polish with micro abrasives. It may sound scary but they are very safe to use on the paint. These polishes make a more noticeable improvement in the paint in my opinion. They can remove surface contaminants, oxidation and swirls. Swirls and heavy oxidation is what makes the surface look cloudy and light fragments thus giving you a dull shine. Removing those imperfections has two major benefits, the surface is smoother so sealants and waxes can bond to it better and it's more optically clear for a deeper reflection.
Waxes are from raw carnauba which is naturally very hard. Other ingredients are added to make them more usable for detailers. They generally protect for about 2 - 6 weeks in my experiences.
Another product to consider is a sealant. Sealants are artificial waxes that last much longer than natural waxes. They last about 3 - 6 months but may not be quite as glossy as top quality waxes. My favorite sealant right now would probably be the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger. It's super durable, very easy to use and looks outstanding.
For a more detailed explanation please check out our detailing guide. If you would like more information or recommendations please let me know I'd be happy to help.
The one thing to add to the definition above is to consider the terms are sometimes used loosely for marketing or to stand out in a crowd of similar products. I might call my product a polish when it truly is a synthetic wax (sealant). You must read the description and most importantly what the manufacturer suggests its used for.
Typically:
polishes --- clean or abrade the surface of defects and contamination. Light polishes are called finishing polishes, medium most often called swirl removers, and heavy abrasive polishes are called compounds.
Waxes --- in general they can be synthetic (sealant) or designed using carnauba. These products offer a very small and light coating of protection that is often removed by environment and even polishing paint. Becareful as some waxes and sealants are pure meaning protection only, and others have cleaners and polishes in them and often call All-In-Ones (AIO).
Here is where I am confused, is when to wax and when to polish.
Florida black vert, parks under a car port at home, outside parking lot at work five days M-F. Usually about 6-7 hours of direct sun depending on the time of year. Thankfully I have summers off.
I typically try to wash once a week. I have been using Ice polish or ice detail spray after the wash. I use a leaf blower to dry and have a filter on the water hose. I use the two bucket method.
So based on your experiences, what would be a good schedule or procedure to follow.
Also, what if anything should be used on the vert top?
It's all the same , just different packaging
buy the cheapest you can find and you're good to go
wax/ polish all the same just get the cheapest one save your money
just joking
Here is where I am confused, is when to wax and when to polish.
Florida black vert, parks under a car port at home, outside parking lot at work five days M-F. Usually about 6-7 hours of direct sun depending on the time of year. Thankfully I have summers off.
I typically try to wash once a week. I have been using Ice polish or ice detail spray after the wash. I use a leaf blower to dry and have a filter on the water hose. I use the two bucket method.
So based on your experiences, what would be a good schedule or procedure to follow.
Also, what if anything should be used on the vert top?
Thanks again for the help.
I typically recommend you do a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year where you wash, dry, clay bar, polish(s), glaze, sealant and wax. Obviously you don't have to do all those steps but that is what a full detail can consist of. In short I would use the polishes at least 1 - 2 times per year but it's not necessary to do on a monthly basis I'd say every four months at most. In between these full details you can wash and protect (wax or sealant) as much as you would like. If the sealant lasts about 3 - 6 months then I would use it at least every three months to ensure your paint is always protected. If you use a wax then I would re-apply it at least once a month if not more frequent.
To simplify a good routine here is what I would suggest, do a full detail twice a year and then do a maintenance detail (wash/sealant) every three months. Let me know if you have any questions or if you would like a recommendation to that will work best for you.
Here is where I am confused, is when to wax and when to polish.
Florida black vert, parks under a car port at home, outside parking lot at work five days M-F. Usually about 6-7 hours of direct sun depending on the time of year. Thankfully I have summers off.
I typically try to wash once a week. I have been using Ice polish or ice detail spray after the wash. I use a leaf blower to dry and have a filter on the water hose. I use the two bucket method.
So based on your experiences, what would be a good schedule or procedure to follow.
Also, what if anything should be used on the vert top?
Thanks again for the help.
Polishing by machine is often done once, maybe twice per year. With proper washing and drying techniques you can go months without need to polish. During that time you will rewax often (some suggest monthly or bi-monthly) as possible. Depends on product choice and time available.
As for roof, I would highly suggest the Raggtop or 303 Kit. Your roof is considered fabric and follow directions. Clean / dry / protect. Its an amazing difference and beads like crazy when done properly.
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Here is where I am confused, is when to wax and when to polish.
We have to remember that wax is done to protect the car (waxing and sealing) and that polish is done to beautify the car.
Think of polishes like an ultra fine sand paper that is used to burnish precious medals to a high gloss.
Waxes- Usually carnauba based, waxes feature natural ingredients as the primary protective ingedient.
Sealants- Sealants usually use a amino functional silicone polymer to protect the paint.
Polishes- Traditionally polishes use ultra fine abrasives to remove small amounts of paint.
Glazes- Glazes are products that offer an increase in appearance but do not offer protective qualities.
Confusion-
Meguiar's NXT Synethic Wax- Is really a sealant.
Zaino Z2pro and Z5pro Show Car Polishes- are really sealants.
Turtle Wax Ice Show Car Polish- again another sealant.
Zymol Estate Glazes- car wax
Meguiar's M80 Speed Glaze- Really a polish
As you can see (and this isn't really scratching the surface) there are no standards in naming products. Your best bet, as noted above, is to read the mfg.'s instructions to determine what the product does.
Quote:
Florida black vert, parks under a car port at home, outside parking lot at work five days M-F. Usually about 6-7 hours of direct sun depending on the time of year. Thankfully I have summers off.
Because your Corvette is black and in the sun you have to content with somewhat dramatic changes in surface tempature. In most cases, you will want to use a synthetic sealant instead of a wax.
You will want to reapply when you notice a drop off in protection on the paint's surface.
Quote:
I typically try to wash once a week. I have been using Ice polish or ice detail spray after the wash. I use a leaf blower to dry and have a filter on the water hose. I use the two bucket method.
Since you are applying the sealant (Ice Polish) and mainting it with the QD so frequently I would estimate that your car, even in Florida, is well protected and looks great. To be honest you could probably back off of using the Ice Polish (sealant) so frequently and still have great results.
Quote:
So based on your experiences, what would be a good schedule or procedure to follow.
I think your schedule is completely fine!
If you notice swirl marks or scratches in the paint then it might be time to consider moving up to a swirl remover polish.
Quote:
Also, what if anything should be used on the vert top?
Thanks again for the help.
Wolfstein's Raggtopp is perfect! It is normally priced at 38.99 for the kit, but is currently on sale at 32.99. Right now we (properautocare.com, newest vendor) have a 'Black Friday' Sale that is 15% off and free shipping over 40 dollars, so you it might be a perfect time to place an order if you are thinking about trying something new.
Besides all the good information already posted, there is yet another group of polishes that are non-abrasive, Todd touched upon this but I'll ad a little more...
Meguiar's makes two different categories of what are called polishes stemming from their background in making product for the re-finishing industry.
Pure Polishes
Cleaner/Polishes
The pure polish category are products that are non-abrasive in that they contain no ingredients with the intended purpose of abrading the paint.
The cleaner/polish category are products that do contain some type of abrasive with the intended purpose of removing below surface defects by abrading the paint.
M07 Show Car Glaze is a non-abrasive pure polish and it's been around since probably the early 1920's in some version or another.
Most people think of a product with some kind of grit in it when they hear the word polish but that's not necessarily true.
I would consider pure polishes no different then a glaze. Of course nowadays the term glaze is used so often as a final polish that it gets confusing... I love the old pictures of the old bottles/product, I have started my collection but have a LONG way to go!
I would consider pure polishes no different then a glaze. Of course nowadays the term glaze is used so often as a final polish that it gets confusing...
This is why we need, drum roll please...
The Wax Police
They would be in charge of writing strict laws and regulations governing the use of words and terms in the detailing industry. This new agency should consist of a handful of experienced painters and detailers and they should be handsomely rewarded via a tax imposed upon all detailing supplies and body shop supplies. There would be a generous car allowance and also access to all products related to the industry for testing purposes.
I for one will volunteer to head up this new agency.
Seriously, you mentioned something about reading the label to figure out what the product is an not just go by the product name and that's good advice.
In most cases you can tell what a product is by the job it's intended to do, or the problem it's formulated to solve.
Too much glitz and glamor involved when it comes to naming a product which can often times be done by someone in marketing that has never buffed out an entire car let alone any of the other job related duties detailers and painters do as a part of their livelihood. A long time ago I wrote a book called,
The art of polishing paint
In it I made fun of "Miracle Products". In the book there was a mock-up ad for a make-believe product and when I re-wrote the Meguiar's FAQ from 20 pages to 66 pages I used the picture I created in my book for their FAQ because I needed it and it was available to me.
Here it is,
Here's the page, kind of funny but that's pretty much the norm for naming miracle products...
Corvette Store
Wax, Polish? Whats the difference and when to use?
