Best way to polish aluminum to chrome finish
10-02-2008, 05:17 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Best way to polish aluminum to chrome finish
Can some one tell me the most effective way to polish aluminum. I have read several items, but I want to hear it from some one that has had success at doing it!!!!
10-02-2008, 05:40 PM
#2
Race Director
You might have more response in the car care/detailing forum on the main menu page towards the bottom.
I'm assuming you're referring to raw aluminum that you've made parts from, but if you're referring to freshening up already polished aluminum (wheels?), some of the steps can be skipped. You might be able to freshen up wheels by hand with a quality metal polish...I prefer WENOL products. Some prefer the "Power Ball", but I've never had any experience with those.
The way I do it is a multi step process with various grades of black oxide (200 to 2,000+ grit) sand paper. It all depends on the existing finish on the aluminum you're working on.
Then it's a multi step process on a 3,500rpm buffer with various 8" buffing wheels and compounds. Hand protection, lung protection and eye protection are a must. A typical DREMEL is not capable of polishing wheels.
It's a very time consuming process. It's a very dirty process. Depending on the size of the part, it's sometimes better to pay someone to do it for you unless you already have the equipment or are willing to buy the equipment.
THE EASTWOOD COMPANY is where I bought most of my equipment and supplies.
I'm assuming you're referring to raw aluminum that you've made parts from, but if you're referring to freshening up already polished aluminum (wheels?), some of the steps can be skipped. You might be able to freshen up wheels by hand with a quality metal polish...I prefer WENOL products. Some prefer the "Power Ball", but I've never had any experience with those.
The way I do it is a multi step process with various grades of black oxide (200 to 2,000+ grit) sand paper. It all depends on the existing finish on the aluminum you're working on.
Then it's a multi step process on a 3,500rpm buffer with various 8" buffing wheels and compounds. Hand protection, lung protection and eye protection are a must. A typical DREMEL is not capable of polishing wheels.
It's a very time consuming process. It's a very dirty process. Depending on the size of the part, it's sometimes better to pay someone to do it for you unless you already have the equipment or are willing to buy the equipment.
THE EASTWOOD COMPANY is where I bought most of my equipment and supplies.
Last edited by hotwheels57; 10-02-2008 at 05:57 PM.
10-02-2008, 06:11 PM
#3
Team Owner
If it's wheels you're looking to polish, I use Adams or Simichrome Polish with a Powerball on a drill for my CCW raw/polished aluminum wheels. 20-30 minutes per wheel usually does it. I will wet sand any scratches out first if necessary. Remember - this is uncoated, raw aluminum.
Last edited by Patches; 10-02-2008 at 06:13 PM.
10-02-2008, 06:25 PM
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Florence New Jersey
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If it's wheels you're looking to polish, I use Adams or Simichrome Polish with a Powerball on a drill for my CCW raw/polished aluminum wheels. 20-30 minutes per wheel usually does it. I will wet sand any scratches out first if necessary. Remember - this is uncoated, raw aluminum.
WOW
that looks great!!
Bling Bling 
10-02-2008, 08:13 PM
#9
Drifting
You might have more response in the car care/detailing forum on the main menu page towards the bottom.
I'm assuming you're referring to raw aluminum that you've made parts from, but if you're referring to freshening up already polished aluminum (wheels?), some of the steps can be skipped. You might be able to freshen up wheels by hand with a quality metal polish...I prefer WENOL products. Some prefer the "Power Ball", but I've never had any experience with those.
The way I do it is a multi step process with various grades of black oxide (200 to 2,000+ grit) sand paper. It all depends on the existing finish on the aluminum you're working on.
Then it's a multi step process on a 3,500rpm buffer with various 8" buffing wheels and compounds. Hand protection, lung protection and eye protection are a must. A typical DREMEL is not capable of polishing wheels.
It's a very time consuming process. It's a very dirty process. Depending on the size of the part, it's sometimes better to pay someone to do it for you unless you already have the equipment or are willing to buy the equipment.
THE EASTWOOD COMPANY is where I bought most of my equipment and supplies.
I'm assuming you're referring to raw aluminum that you've made parts from, but if you're referring to freshening up already polished aluminum (wheels?), some of the steps can be skipped. You might be able to freshen up wheels by hand with a quality metal polish...I prefer WENOL products. Some prefer the "Power Ball", but I've never had any experience with those.
The way I do it is a multi step process with various grades of black oxide (200 to 2,000+ grit) sand paper. It all depends on the existing finish on the aluminum you're working on.
Then it's a multi step process on a 3,500rpm buffer with various 8" buffing wheels and compounds. Hand protection, lung protection and eye protection are a must. A typical DREMEL is not capable of polishing wheels.
It's a very time consuming process. It's a very dirty process. Depending on the size of the part, it's sometimes better to pay someone to do it for you unless you already have the equipment or are willing to buy the equipment.
THE EASTWOOD COMPANY is where I bought most of my equipment and supplies.
10-02-2008, 08:18 PM
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Chicago Illinois
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I used aluminun polish and a polishing pad on my power drill and had very good results on my wheels. Make sure there is no clear coat on them or it will have to be removed first.
10-02-2008, 08:35 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Great ideas and methods above I do pretty much the same, always seem to wind up back at Maas Creme though.
I do pretty much the same, always seem to wind up back at Maas Creme though.
10-04-2008, 09:37 AM
#14
Former Vendor
uncoated aluminum is always in a state of degrade or tarnish. As such polishing is needed on a consistent basis. I have found over the years that the proper metal polish, extra fine steel wool, Powerball, and mushroom bobs (often wool) make the deal easier. Cleaners like P21S Polishing Soap can help also prior to polishing by helping to remove some of this tarnish.
10-04-2008, 10:53 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
White buffing wheel on a high speed die grinder or something similar, and white jewelers rouge. I've used that method on mc parts. Works to buff scratches out of chrome too.
On lower fork legs, which Harley seals and pits in times, wet/dry sandpaper is used to sand them smooth and remove the rough casting marks, then start the polishing.
Simichrome is a standard in the bike world. Flitz is supposed to be very good too.
http://gordsaluminumpolish.com/index.html
http://hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=624298 fork slider polishing. I think this is what you're after
On lower fork legs, which Harley seals and pits in times, wet/dry sandpaper is used to sand them smooth and remove the rough casting marks, then start the polishing.
Simichrome is a standard in the bike world. Flitz is supposed to be very good too.
http://gordsaluminumpolish.com/index.html
http://hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=624298 fork slider polishing. I think this is what you're after
Last edited by GotChrist?; 10-04-2008 at 10:59 AM.
