Full Write Up, 1966 Pontiac Lemans Show Car, Fully Sanded and Polished
I rarely ever post up and brag about my own work, but I thought this was worth reading. check it out.
Lots of information for the DIY's as well as the pro's.
This is a very lengthy, thorough and detailed write up of the exact process, steps and techniques I performed on a 66 Pontiac Lemans that was fully color sanded and polished out to perfection.
If anyone is curious what it takes to paint and perfect a car, this is what you want to read.
Please understand why I posted a link and did not rewrite the entire documentation as it took me over 5 hours just to do the write up.
Beautiful work Josh!!! Man that is a lot of sheet metal, and Black to boot!!! I like Megs 105, the initial cut is fantastic, I just wish it had a longer work time, if it did I think it would finish out better.
Beautiful work Josh!!! Man that is a lot of sheet metal, and Black to boot!!! I like Megs 105, the initial cut is fantastic, I just wish it had a longer work time, if it did I think it would finish out better.
Thanks, you are right about the M105, it takes a little getting used to, but I find if you mix it with something like Menz SIP or IP or another polish that is loaded with lubes that it should spread so much longer.
And I find the trick to it is putting it on thick, then once you've worked it in, turn it down and jewel it a whole lot.
I got it to give me a nearly perfect, ready for wax finish. But I was using it after Menz PG so the PG left behind some valuable lubes which was perfect for the M105 to spread around with.
Location: Sparks (Reno is so close to hell you can see Sparks) NV
Wow!! A very informative posting. Beautiful job with the explanation as well as the work itself. I have buffed out some paint jobs before, but mostly just using what the guy at the counter at the paint store says is best. My results were at best marginal. I learned a lot.
Wow!! A very informative posting. Beautiful job with the explanation as well as the work itself. I have buffed out some paint jobs before, but mostly just using what the guy at the counter at the paint store says is best. My results were at best marginal. I learned a lot.
You are very welcome. Glad I could help on some level.
Location: Sparks (Reno is so close to hell you can see Sparks) NV
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshVette
You are very welcome. Glad I could help on some level.
Josh
You did, thanks again. When I was younger, I worked weekends for my girlfriend's dad who owned a detail shop, he mostly did new cars from dealerships. But I learned how to use a buffer without burning through paint. But mostly it was to apply some gimmicky protection coating.
Thanks, you are right about the M105, it takes a little getting used to, but I find if you mix it with something like Menz SIP or IP or another polish that is loaded with lubes that it should spread so much longer.
And I find the trick to it is putting it on thick, then once you've worked it in, turn it down and jewel it a whole lot.
The work time is very short, no doubt about it......
After trying the three small dot process some other guys use, I couldn't even do a one foot window without it drying up.....
If I need 105 now, I use a white rounded edge LC pad that's very moist with FK425. I spritz the paint surface to add a little longer working time.
The milder pad selection doesn't seem to hinder the strength of 105. It's some serious stuff and it finishes down crazy nice considering how potent is is......
Thanks for the tips with the 105 guys! I have a color sanding project coming up, so I will give them a try. FK425 is a product I have been wanting to try, everyone seems to love it, but I just bought 3 gallons of Megs Final Detail so I am set for awhile. Again awesome job on the car and the posting Josh...Thank You!!!
The work time is very short, no doubt about it......
After trying the three small dot process some other guys use, I couldn't even do a one foot window without it drying up.....
If I need 105 now, I use a white rounded edge LC pad that's very moist with FK425. I spritz the paint surface to add a little longer working time.
The milder pad selection doesn't seem to hinder the strength of 105. It's some serious stuff and it finishes down crazy nice considering how potent is is......
Yup, sounds like you got it. I like to put it on super thick though and still spritz it especially when using it via rotary.
Depending on the paint it will leave some holograms behind if using it with a wool pad but if a white pad on hard paint it's great and if on softer paint with a white pad it will haze a little I find. It's typically a good rule of thumb to finish down any compound when using a rotary to ensure holograms are not left behind.......as you know.
Thanks for the tips with the 105 guys! I have a color sanding project coming up, so I will give them a try. FK425 is a product I have been wanting to try, everyone seems to love it, but I just bought 3 gallons of Megs Final Detail so I am set for awhile. Again awesome job on the car and the posting Josh...Thank You!!!
Excellent work Josh. Everytime I think I'm getting somewhere I see the work you Pro's do and I get humbled.
-RR
Thanks, I love what I do. It's nice to see results and I'm still learning everytime I see another pro do something that I haven't thought of yet or whatever.....
looks awesome! did you find it hard to remove the sanding marks that were not following a uniform direction? ie, lookes like the sanding marks went out in angular directions while the sander stood in the same spot if that makes sense.
when I did my car, I made the mistake once of going an oposite direction as I started and it was harder to remove the sanding marks.
Even after all I have seen here by the several people who really know what they are doing, I am still surprised to see the levels of correction possible.
Great work.
looks awesome! did you find it hard to remove the sanding marks that were not following a uniform direction? ie, lookes like the sanding marks went out in angular directions while the sander stood in the same spot if that makes sense.
when I did my car, I made the mistake once of going an oposite direction as I started and it was harder to remove the sanding marks.
Well, the painted did a lot of the sanding but he also had a couple helped who sanding a few panels so......
The worst areas were the trunk and passenger side rear panel, could be cause I did the testing on them though.... not sure exactly but they were a little more difficult to clean up.
Thanks Autogeek. I had purchased those 6 purple foamed wool pads, 6 white pads, a gal of M105 and a gal of SIP from you guys just for this car...
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve8
Even after all I have seen here by the several people who really know what they are doing, I am still surprised to see the levels of correction possible.
Great work.
Thanks, it was all finished down with 2500 grit uniform paper so it shouldn't have been so difficult to make perfect, it only gave me a little trouble in certain areas.
You did a great job bringing that paint job to life!
I love these threads that go into detail like this one did. I may never attempt one like that myself, but it sure gives you a greater appreciation for some of the paint jobs that you see at car shows.
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Full Write Up, 1966 Pontiac Lemans Show Car, Fully Sanded and Polished
