No. Rejex is a sealant...a coating, like you would use wax but longer lasting and slicker than wax. You need an abrasive in the form of what is called a polish or swirl remover (very, very light abrasive) to remove light scratches and swirl marks. And on the Corvette clear coat, you need to either apply it by hand by moving your hand in circles at a speed of about 4-6,000 small circles per minute, or use a buffer at that speed.
No. Rejex is a sealant...a coating, like you would use wax but longer lasting and slicker than wax. You need an abrasive in the form of what is called a polish or swirl remover (very, very light abrasive) to remove light scratches and swirl marks. And on the Corvette clear coat, you need to either apply it by hand by moving your hand in circles at a speed of about 4-6,000 small circles per minute, or use a buffer at that speed.
I have some Adams haze and swirl remover, should I apply that first, then adams polish, then Rejex?
Rejex is an LSP so you'll want to clean & polish the paint prior to applying. I tend to stay away from polishes that contain fillers.
I use Zaino PC Fusion (Z-PC) with my Porter Cable to polish and remove swirls after claying the surface (if it needs it), then apply Rejex and let it cure for 12 hours.
Rejex is an LSP so you'll want to clean & polish the paint prior to applying. I tend to stay away from polishes that contain fillers.
I use Zaino PC Fusion (Z-PC) with my Porter Cable to polish and remove swirls after claying the surface (if it needs it), then apply Rejex and let it cure for 12 hours.
Whatever you use to remove the swirls...Adams, Zaino, Menzerna....be sure to wash the car afterwards to remove all traces of polish. You could even use 50/50 isopropyl to remove all remnants of the polish. The idea is to have as clean a surface as possible for bonding with the sealant, whether it be Rejex, Zaino, or your favorite non-sealant or partial-sealant wax.
I have some Adams haze and swirl remover, should I apply that first, then adams polish, then Rejex?
rejex won't remove scratches or swirls and won't hide them. You'll have to use another product for that. Since you have Adam's products they will work. Be sure to clean the paint well after using the Adam's products so the rejex will bond properly since it's a polymer sealant. Try using a 50/50 (Isopropyl/water) mix in a spray bottle before using rejex. This will remove any residue left by the other products and allow the rejex to bond. If you want, then you can add a wax over the top of the rejex.
Can I use Adam's detail spray after the applying the rejex(allow to cure first) to keep up the shine?
I would guess and say yes, but since I don't own Adam's detail spray I'll let someone who has used it with rejex give you their opinion.
Remember when using a polymer sealant, you should avoid anything that contains a wax or wax type product in it. (Disclaimer - I'm NOT saying Adam's QD spray contains wax)
Some carwash soaps, quick detailers, etc... have wax in it. It may even say it right on the label. This would keep your next application of rejex from properly bonding.
Can I use Adam's detail spray after the applying the rejex(allow to cure first) to keep up the shine?
Absolutely. Adam's detail spray is great and it will work fine over Rejex. Do yourself a favor, splurge, and spend the $13 for a blue microfiber towel from Adam's to use with the detail spray. You'll actually need a couple, but after you use one, you'll want lots more.
As mrosa pointed out, you'll want to wash the car with a neutral soap before applying additional layers of Rejex to allow proper bonding.
It would be fine to apply rejex with a gray pad on the porter cable...yes?
I guess you could but you really wouldn't receive any added benefit imo. It applies easily by hand, just make sure not to put it on too thick as it can be harder to remove that way.
I guess you could but you really wouldn't receive any added benefit imo. It applies easily by hand, just make sure not to put it on too thick as it can be harder to remove that way.
The reason I asked was because I felt it could probably go on more evenly with a small amount using the PC rather than doing it by hand.
Not really for any sort of benefit of trying to work it into the paint or anything.
I spoke to a head guy at rejex and he told me that as long as there is no wax or sillicone on the paint, there is no problem applyng rejex. He said I can apply Adams swirl and haze remover, then Adams polish, wipe it off, then add rejex.
I spoke to a head guy at rejex and he told me that as long as there is no wax or sillicone on the paint, there is no problem applyng rejex. He said I can apply Adams swirl and haze remover, then Adams polish, wipe it off, then add rejex.
When in doubt, mix a spray bottle with a 50/50 solution of isopropyl and water. Takes all of 5-10 minutes to spray down the car and wipe off and you know it's 100% ready to go
I spoke to a head guy at rejex and he told me that as long as there is no wax or sillicone on the paint, there is no problem applyng rejex. He said I can apply Adams swirl and haze remover, then Adams polish, wipe it off, then add rejex.
I've done the Swirl and Haze remover and Revive polish, followed by the Rejex and had fantastic results. I had all of the Adams products, so rather than finishing with the Buttery Wax, I thought I would use Rejex to seal the paint. It worked great.
I've done the Swirl and Haze remover and Revive polish, followed by the Rejex and had fantastic results. I had all of the Adams products, so rather than finishing with the Buttery Wax, I thought I would use Rejex to seal the paint. It worked great.
Exactly what I'm doing! Did you remove any remnants after the revive polish with isopropyl/water before you applied Rejex? Also, I'm using a porter cable for the swirl/polish, did you use a polisher?
Exactly what I'm doing! Did you remove any remnants after the revive polish with isopropyl/water before you applied Rejex? Also, I'm using a porter cable for the swirl/polish, did you use a polisher?
I used a PC with a white pad for the swirl/polish. Then I used a high quality microfibre cloth wipe off and remove any residue. Then I went straight to the Rejex. No isopropy/water soution was used.
I used a PC with a white pad for the swirl/polish. Then I used a high quality microfibre cloth wipe off and remove any residue. Then I went straight to the Rejex. No isopropy/water soution was used.
Did you use the swirl and polish at the same time, or did you do all swirl, then all polish?
Corvette Store
Another REJEX question :)
Whatever you use to remove the swirls...Adams, Zaino, Menzerna....be sure to wash the car afterwards to remove all traces of polish. You could even use 50/50 isopropyl to remove all remnants of the polish. The idea is to have as clean a surface as possible for bonding with the sealant, whether it be Rejex, Zaino, or your favorite non-sealant or partial-sealant wax.
