California Water Blade - Good or Bad?
08-31-2007, 11:47 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'14
California Water Blade - Good or Bad?
I was at a car show a few weeks ago and the skies opened up on us. After the rain quit I saw a large number of people whip out their California Water Blades and proceed to wick most of the water off their cars while I hit mine with a chamois. I thought they looked slick in that they saved a lot of time. I talked to a few of the guys using them and they loved them. Those that didn't have them said "stay away - you'll scratch your paint". I did a search here and read many of the posts and found no consensus.
I love washing my car but hate the drying part. I use my compressor to blow out the tail lights and mirrors but I'm not buying a leaf blower no matter how good it works.
Sorry to get so long winded......
So what is everyone's feelings on the California Water blade?
I love washing my car but hate the drying part. I use my compressor to blow out the tail lights and mirrors but I'm not buying a leaf blower no matter how good it works.
Sorry to get so long winded......
So what is everyone's feelings on the California Water blade?
09-01-2007, 06:32 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
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For glass surfaces they work very well.
On a paint surface if used properly they should not cause scratches, note that I said should not, I will only use them on glass
On a paint surface if used properly they should not cause scratches, note that I said should not, I will only use them on glass
09-01-2007, 08:52 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
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I have always been cautioned that if a small piece of sand/grit should get under the blade, it will scratch the paint something fierce.
The probability of that is small if you properly clean it after use and leave it in a clean storage area.
I won't take any chaces. 100% cotton towels are much more forgiving should the same thing happen.
The probability of that is small if you properly clean it after use and leave it in a clean storage area.
I won't take any chaces. 100% cotton towels are much more forgiving should the same thing happen.
09-02-2007, 12:25 AM
#8
Safety Car
truth: I don't know anyone who's caused harm from the CA water blade. But it is a real concern. Just basic common sense: the BEST WAY TO CAUSE SWIRLS IS TO TOUCH THE CAR.
So the best way to prevent them is to NOT TOUCH the car.
Buy a converter (look at Staples) so that you can plug in to your DC outlet in the car, and then attach AC appliances like your computer or the leaf blower, if you're at a show. If at home of course, you do not need a power converter - just use house current.
Yes - use the leaf blower (electric NOT gas-powered). Then only the lightest application of towels and quick detailer for the last few drops. The less you touch the car the better.
I admit that our fears about scratches by the CA water blade are more theoretical than grounded in fact. But it's a risk you don't need. If someone told you to brush your teeth with sandpaper to keep away plaque, I'd say the same thing: no one has PROVEN it's harmful (yet), but it just doesn't sound like a risk worth taking, when there is another TOTALLY benign way to get the same result (toothpaste, or in my analogy, a leaf blower and soft towels).
Save the CA blade for your shower (where mine is).
So the best way to prevent them is to NOT TOUCH the car.
Buy a converter (look at Staples) so that you can plug in to your DC outlet in the car, and then attach AC appliances like your computer or the leaf blower, if you're at a show. If at home of course, you do not need a power converter - just use house current.
Yes - use the leaf blower (electric NOT gas-powered). Then only the lightest application of towels and quick detailer for the last few drops. The less you touch the car the better.
I admit that our fears about scratches by the CA water blade are more theoretical than grounded in fact. But it's a risk you don't need. If someone told you to brush your teeth with sandpaper to keep away plaque, I'd say the same thing: no one has PROVEN it's harmful (yet), but it just doesn't sound like a risk worth taking, when there is another TOTALLY benign way to get the same result (toothpaste, or in my analogy, a leaf blower and soft towels).
Save the CA blade for your shower (where mine is).
09-02-2007, 12:28 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
I used the blade for awhile. I was **** in my cleaning procedure and I still managed to scratch my hood. I learned my lesson the hard way. It just isn't worth the risk IMHO. If you get some grit on a towel or chamois it is alot more forgiving then the blade.
09-02-2007, 08:25 AM
#11
Race Director
Both the water blade and chamois are more likley to casue scratches & swirls in the situation your suggest compared to the air blower or a terry towel.
The problem is the road grime, grit, brake dust and the dirt that is the nucleus of each rain drop.
IF you don't want swirls don't dry the car after a rain storm... Wash it first.
If you want to reduce your chances then forget both the chamois and the water blade. Use a good detailer to mist the surface and lubricate it then lightly wipe with a high quality terry towel or use a leaf blower.
The problem is the road grime, grit, brake dust and the dirt that is the nucleus of each rain drop.
IF you don't want swirls don't dry the car after a rain storm... Wash it first.
If you want to reduce your chances then forget both the chamois and the water blade. Use a good detailer to mist the surface and lubricate it then lightly wipe with a high quality terry towel or use a leaf blower.
09-02-2007, 09:46 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
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The water blade works well but the slightest bit of dirt and you're all done. I put a 36" scratch in the hood of my GMC pick-up cause I picked up some dirt on the blade. The blade went directly in the garbage after that, I still see the scratch even after lightly buffing hood. My opinion is to just stick with a real chamois
09-02-2007, 10:03 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
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There wasn't one mark on this truck till the water blade and I really have myself to blame cause I should have wiped the blade on a towel with every stroke but I was in a rush
09-02-2007, 10:41 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
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I have used one for years and didn't notice anything until now. I've been going over the car compounding with Menzerna Power Gloss and yes there are marks leftover. Not dramatic, but they are there.
I only used the water blade after washing and didn't let the water sit. water on the C5 moves from the back to the front, so I always wash the back first. Right after a rinse I would use the water blade on the section to reduce airborne dust and pollen.
I think that helped reduce the scratches, but if you use one you'll have them. But, I also feel that if you use chamios you'll have them too. With no personal experience with them it is purely speculation at this point.
I only used the water blade after washing and didn't let the water sit. water on the C5 moves from the back to the front, so I always wash the back first. Right after a rinse I would use the water blade on the section to reduce airborne dust and pollen.
I think that helped reduce the scratches, but if you use one you'll have them. But, I also feel that if you use chamios you'll have them too. With no personal experience with them it is purely speculation at this point.
09-02-2007, 10:50 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
I have always been cautioned that if a small piece of sand/grit should get under the blade, it will scratch the paint something fierce.
The probability of that is small if you properly clean it after use and leave it in a clean storage area.
I won't take any chaces. 100% cotton towels are much more forgiving should the same thing happen.
The probability of that is small if you properly clean it after use and leave it in a clean storage area.
I won't take any chaces. 100% cotton towels are much more forgiving should the same thing happen.
I use micro fibers to dry my car... soft and very absorbent too. 
09-02-2007, 12:10 PM
#16
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I used both the early version of the Criott's and the California Water Blade for a couple of years. I'm not aware of having ever caused scratches, but I've largely abandoned them for fear that someday I might.
I believe part of my success when using them was that I always lubricated the edge with a Quick Detailer (mosty Griots Speed Shine or Spray on Wax because I was using carnauba waxes at the time). I also lubricated the wet surface with the Quick Detailer which speeds the removal of the water and causes a slight enhancement of the surface finish as well. If you lubricate the edge by spraying over the surface of the car with the QD (that way the overspray goes onto the paint and isn't wasted), ocassionaly wiping the edge clean before re-lubricating, I think it is very unlikely you will cause a scratch on a clean car.
Frankly, I've found no perfect way to dry a car, and I've tried virtually all of them. They all have some disadvantages and most methods take a fair amount of time. Right now, I use a leaf blower most often.
Leaf Blower: Noisy, electric cord that can come in contact with the paint and cause marks of its own; they are heavy and can be hard to manage over large expanses; possibility of bumping nossle or other part against paint; can be time consuming to get all the water pockets cleared.
CR (and presumably other) water filters: EXPENSIVE to purchase; ongoing maintenance cost; can be a hassle to hook up and remove if you use it only for final rinsing. CR is a big item to store between uses; if all the areas aren't adequately flushed you still can get water spots; airborn dirt can collect before all the water has dried (especially in more humid and/or cooler climates) and contaminate the water before it dries; water pockets may remain for quite some time resulting in water streaks when you later drive the car and the water flushes out.
Water blades: Higher potential for dragging an abrasive particle across the paint; does nothing to deal with water pockets (mirrors, lights, channels, etc.) or detail areas; must be carefully stored to avoid contamination.
Microfiber and Cotton Towels: Ongoing washing & drying maintenance and regular replacement is required, adding to time and expense. Not as good as a leaf blower at dealing with hidden pockets. Some potential for scratching with towel itself or picking up of abrasive particle(s). A soggy wet mess at the end that has to be dealt with. If you have several of these things, they can take up almost as much space as a leaf blower, have a single purpose, and must be stored to avoid contamination.
Synthetic chamois: Much the same as towels above. Some of the best must are meant to be stored wet, which can pose additional problems.
All the methods have their own set of advantages as well, but the point here is that that I'm not aware of any perfect drying system.
I believe part of my success when using them was that I always lubricated the edge with a Quick Detailer (mosty Griots Speed Shine or Spray on Wax because I was using carnauba waxes at the time). I also lubricated the wet surface with the Quick Detailer which speeds the removal of the water and causes a slight enhancement of the surface finish as well. If you lubricate the edge by spraying over the surface of the car with the QD (that way the overspray goes onto the paint and isn't wasted), ocassionaly wiping the edge clean before re-lubricating, I think it is very unlikely you will cause a scratch on a clean car.
Frankly, I've found no perfect way to dry a car, and I've tried virtually all of them. They all have some disadvantages and most methods take a fair amount of time. Right now, I use a leaf blower most often.
Leaf Blower: Noisy, electric cord that can come in contact with the paint and cause marks of its own; they are heavy and can be hard to manage over large expanses; possibility of bumping nossle or other part against paint; can be time consuming to get all the water pockets cleared.
CR (and presumably other) water filters: EXPENSIVE to purchase; ongoing maintenance cost; can be a hassle to hook up and remove if you use it only for final rinsing. CR is a big item to store between uses; if all the areas aren't adequately flushed you still can get water spots; airborn dirt can collect before all the water has dried (especially in more humid and/or cooler climates) and contaminate the water before it dries; water pockets may remain for quite some time resulting in water streaks when you later drive the car and the water flushes out.
Water blades: Higher potential for dragging an abrasive particle across the paint; does nothing to deal with water pockets (mirrors, lights, channels, etc.) or detail areas; must be carefully stored to avoid contamination.
Microfiber and Cotton Towels: Ongoing washing & drying maintenance and regular replacement is required, adding to time and expense. Not as good as a leaf blower at dealing with hidden pockets. Some potential for scratching with towel itself or picking up of abrasive particle(s). A soggy wet mess at the end that has to be dealt with. If you have several of these things, they can take up almost as much space as a leaf blower, have a single purpose, and must be stored to avoid contamination.
Synthetic chamois: Much the same as towels above. Some of the best must are meant to be stored wet, which can pose additional problems.
All the methods have their own set of advantages as well, but the point here is that that I'm not aware of any perfect drying system.
Last edited by kumayama; 09-02-2007 at 04:01 PM.
09-02-2007, 01:22 PM
#18
Safety Car
waffle weave microfiber and a leaf blower work for me
09-03-2007, 04:32 AM
#19
Team Owner
I used both the early version of the Criott's and the California Water Blade for a couple of years. I'm not aware of having ever caused scratches, but I've largely abandoned them for fear that someday I might.
I believe part of my success when using them was that I always lubricated the edge with a Quick Detailer (mosty Griots Speed Shine or Spray on Wax because I was using carnauba waxes at the time). I also lubricated the wet surface with the Quick Detailer which speeds the removal of the water and causes a slight enhancement of the surface finish as well. If you lubricate the edge by spraying over the surface of the car with the QD (that way the overspray goes onto the paint and isn't wasted), ocassionaly wiping the edge clean before re-lubricating, I think it is very unlikely you will cause a scratch on a clean car.
Frankly, I've found no perfect way to dry a car, and I've tried virtually all of them. They all have some disadvantages and most methods take a fair amount of time. Right now, I use a leaf blower most often.
Leaf Blower: Noisy, electric cord that can come in contact with the paint and cause marks of its own; they are heavy and can be hard to manage over large expanses; possibility of bumping nossle or other part against paint; can be time consuming to get all the water pockets cleared.
CR (and presumably other) water filters: EXPENSIVE to purchase; ongoing maintenance cost; can be a hassle to hook up and remove if you use it only for final rinsing. CR is a big item to store between uses; if all the areas aren't adequately flushed you still can get water spots; airborn dirt can collect before all the water has dried (especially in more humid and/or cooler climates) and contaminate the water before it dries; water pockets may remain for quite some time resulting in water streaks when you later drive the car and the water flushes out.
Water blades: Higher potential for dragging an abrasive particle across the paint; does nothing to deal with water pockets (mirrors, lights, channels, etc.) or detail areas; must be carefully stored to avoid contamination.
Microfiber and Cotton Towels: Ongoing washing & drying maintenance and regular replacement is required, adding to time and expense. Not as good as a leaf blower at dealing with hidden pockets. Some potential for scratching with towel itself or picking up of abrasive particle(s). A soggy wet mess at the end that has to be dealt with. If you have several of these things, they can take up almost as much space as a leaf blower, have a single purpose, and must be stored to avoid contamination.
Synthetic chamois: Much the same as towels above. Some of the best must are meant to be stored wet, which can pose additional problems.
All the methods have their own set of advantages as well, but the point here is that that I'm not aware of any perfect drying system.
I believe part of my success when using them was that I always lubricated the edge with a Quick Detailer (mosty Griots Speed Shine or Spray on Wax because I was using carnauba waxes at the time). I also lubricated the wet surface with the Quick Detailer which speeds the removal of the water and causes a slight enhancement of the surface finish as well. If you lubricate the edge by spraying over the surface of the car with the QD (that way the overspray goes onto the paint and isn't wasted), ocassionaly wiping the edge clean before re-lubricating, I think it is very unlikely you will cause a scratch on a clean car.
Frankly, I've found no perfect way to dry a car, and I've tried virtually all of them. They all have some disadvantages and most methods take a fair amount of time. Right now, I use a leaf blower most often.
Leaf Blower: Noisy, electric cord that can come in contact with the paint and cause marks of its own; they are heavy and can be hard to manage over large expanses; possibility of bumping nossle or other part against paint; can be time consuming to get all the water pockets cleared.
CR (and presumably other) water filters: EXPENSIVE to purchase; ongoing maintenance cost; can be a hassle to hook up and remove if you use it only for final rinsing. CR is a big item to store between uses; if all the areas aren't adequately flushed you still can get water spots; airborn dirt can collect before all the water has dried (especially in more humid and/or cooler climates) and contaminate the water before it dries; water pockets may remain for quite some time resulting in water streaks when you later drive the car and the water flushes out.
Water blades: Higher potential for dragging an abrasive particle across the paint; does nothing to deal with water pockets (mirrors, lights, channels, etc.) or detail areas; must be carefully stored to avoid contamination.
Microfiber and Cotton Towels: Ongoing washing & drying maintenance and regular replacement is required, adding to time and expense. Not as good as a leaf blower at dealing with hidden pockets. Some potential for scratching with towel itself or picking up of abrasive particle(s). A soggy wet mess at the end that has to be dealt with. If you have several of these things, they can take up almost as much space as a leaf blower, have a single purpose, and must be stored to avoid contamination.
Synthetic chamois: Much the same as towels above. Some of the best must are meant to be stored wet, which can pose additional problems.
All the methods have their own set of advantages as well, but the point here is that that I'm not aware of any perfect drying system.
I have also used the California Jelly Blade I bought from Costco 2 for $25.00 and these work great. I also have the CA Water Blade. Thus far no problems with any of these but I make sure there is no dirt around or if I drop one of these blades I rinse it clean.
I remove most of the water with the blades and the remainder with the blower. The water blades remove more water and are easier and more effective to use than the Sears Leaf 230 MPH Blower I also use after I have used the blades.
