Tom/99

I just came in position of a black car that has water spots all over it. Any suggestions on how to remove them, would be appriciated. Thanks.

gmblack3

Are they light on the surface or etched into the clearcoat?

bretfraz

This is the key issue. You'll need something like a magnifying glass or loupe to see the difference. The solution depends on what the spots really are.

agentf1

If they are not etched just use a good SSR or Paint Cleanser like ZPC or 3M 39009 to remove them.

If it is etched you will need to wet sand the finish with 3000 grit and then re-polish to a shine. If this is the case you may want to recruit a professional.

ETM

I used to have water spot issues from spinklers around my work.I used Megs step 1 paint cleaner and it was effective.

Slow Z06

Mguires cleaner wax???

steck

yeah,, it does depend on what type of 'spots' you have.

if regular washing, claying, polishing, or even the 'ole' vinegar trick doesnt work,,, than likely they are the etched in ones...

I just got in the garage from doing the hood of my black DTS. it was at the dealership for a week,,and must have got sprayed with something pretty chemically as the spots were horrendous,,and could really be seen under Flourescents. side note (NXT did squat for protection!!!)

anyway I used the HITACHI rotary, white LC polishing pad at 1200 RPMs with Meguiars #85

then same with Megs #80 with Rotary 1st and then the PC.

PITA,,but that's what it took to get my "dealership installed" water marks off. (the PC alone didnt even make a dent!!)

good luck,, and hope your's come out with a little polish

Anthony Orosco

Always dissolve first then abrade.

Optimum's spot remover is not ready for release just yet but it is highly effective on hard water spots........so for now try vinegar full strength. Soak a towel in vinegar, lay it on the area and lightly agitate it. Do this on a cool surface and out of the sun and it may take several applications. Rinse the panel down and continue if needed. If the spots are gone then lightly polish and re-seal the paint. I have used a Mr. Clean Eraser Pad in conjunction with Optimum's Spot Remover and removed some really nasty water etching on glass and paint...use at your own risk though if you decide to go this route.

If the spots are still there then you need to use an abrasive polish and abrade away the spots. Wetsanding is overkill BUT in many cases it must be done but only by a pro.

Start off with a mild polish like Menzerna IP or Optimum Polish, applied via a polisher and an orange pad. If this removes the spots them you can use either Optimum or FPII and a polishing/finishing pad to get a ready to seal finish.

Anthony

steck

didnt know you were over here Anthony.

TO ALL: do whatever Anthony says,,,he's world class.

i've been reading your posts over at Autopia for years.

you have a vette ?!

Anthony Orosco

Hello,

Thanks for the kind words and no, I don't have a Vette.....working on a Porsche

I did though the other day see a beautiful restoration on a 1963 split window Vette....super nice, super clean!!

Anthony

steve40th

Living here in Hawaii cars get water spots pretty bad. I found this product, MX-7 and it goes on easy, I let it dry, then used a buffer (because its easier, but not needed). I couldn't believe the spots actually came off my wifes car. It felt like I used a clay bar, smooth. And it smells good too , like flouride?
Anyways, here it is at a local store that sells it.
http://tnttinting.com/taxonomy/term/10
Its in there "other products" tab on the side if this link doesnt work.

TonyC6

I have a black '03 and it acquired some pretty nasty etched water spots. I worked hard on this car for the better part of 2 months to finally get the spots out. I follwed the usual recommendations to start with the least abrasive and work my way up.....WOW, that was a lot of work. To make a long story short, I ended up sanding....2500 grit and then 3000. 3M makes some nice little sanding discs if you have a high speed D/A. But then you'll need a rotary machine, some pretty heavy cutting polish (I tried the recommended 3M stuff, but ended up with Hi-Temp), and then stepping through the process with the Menzerna IP and FP. Finally some Meguires show car glaze, and topped it off with Menzerna FMJ. Anyway the story wasn't so short, neither was the time it took to do this. But in the end, it was worth it. I was almost ready to spring for a paint job.

Good luck with your project!

steve40th

Mine took less than a half an hour. Hard water spots are common here in Hawaii. This MX-7 stuff works like you want it to , fast and simple, not labourous at all.

papafrancisco

I have to ask a really dumb question. If the etched spot is in the clear coat how can the spot be disolved? Won't the "hole" still exist?

agentf1

You are correct. It can only be disolved if it is a deposit. Etching must be sanded.

TOGWT

No question about it, the depression will remain until it is 'levelled'. But if an alkaline or acid is left in place without being neutralized water will reactivate its corrosive effect each time it is added (i.e. rain, dew, washing, fog, et al)

PS: Good to have your invaluable knowledge and practical skills here AnthonyO

papafrancisco

Now I'm beginning to understand the "science" of how a water spot can etch into the clear coat. How can one tell if the spot is neutralized? I recently began using Menzerna IP on the the etched spots. Should I go ahead and wash it and than use vinegar or is it OK to go ahead and apply the vinegar now?

TOGWT

I would neutralize before levelling the surface, as you could 'drive' the acid / alkaline into the clear coat.

Other than placing pH test paper on the 'mark' I don't know a way to test for naturalization