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Old 09-16-2006, 03:03 PM   #1
Vette Dream
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Default Winter storage: windows shut, or cracked open?

Hey folks, I'll be storing my car shortly for winter, and have informed myself quite well from doing a search on this site regarding the steps to take.

My car will be stored in a heated facily at constant temperature (60ish degrees I would say).

I do have one question: should I leave the windows completely shut or just slightly cracked open? What are the pros/cons of each alternative?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 09-16-2006, 03:27 PM   #2
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As long as your interior is clean then having the windows shut will keep your interior less dusty.

so I'd say.... shut them and hit the interior with a few shots of febreeze once every couple of weeks.
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Old 09-16-2006, 05:00 PM   #3
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According to C6Tony I only answer Zaino threads but I will go ahead and break the norm.

I keep mine shut tight. Some people say to put moth *****, an open box of baking soda or even that stuff that absorbs moisture in the car. I usually don't do any of the above. I think the moth ball scent would really bother me but the baking soda or stay dry stuff is probably a good idea with the latter only used if stored in a real moist area.
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Old 09-16-2006, 10:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vette Dream
Hey folks, I'll be storing my car shortly for winter, and have informed myself quite well from doing a search on this site regarding the steps to take.

My car will be stored in a heated facily at constant temperature (60ish degrees I would say).

I do have one question: should I leave the windows completely shut or just slightly cracked open? What are the pros/cons of each alternative?

Thanks in advance!

I just fill the gas tank and close it up with a some mouse baits around the car. I use to do all kinds of winter prep but I seem to find a few nice day during the winter that I get the car out and take a short run. Not a bad idea to have a battery tender if you have a power outlet.
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58Vette65
I just fill the gas tank and close it up with a some mouse baits around the car. I use to do all kinds of winter prep but I seem to find a few nice day during the winter that I get the car out and take a short run. Not a bad idea to have a battery tender if you have a power outlet.
I assume if you're going to store it with a full tank of gas, you would still need to add a fuel stabilizer, won't you?
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z06-Goose
I assume if you're going to store it with a full tank of gas, you would still need to add a fuel stabilizer, won't you?
Goose
I use to but the last few years I have been able to run several days during the winter and I have not used a fuel stablizer and not have had any problems....must be that global warming....
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:51 PM   #7
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Here's one method: http://autorepair.about.com/od/carcare/a/storecar.htm
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58Vette65
I use to but the last few years I have been able to run several days during the winter and I have not used a fuel stablizer and not have had any problems....must be that global warming....
Hehe! I know it's hard not to sneak the car out for a ride when the weather gets nice. Even during the Winter here, we still get some 60ish degrees days here and there. Not too bad.
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:58 PM   #9
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Thanks guys, windows shut it is!
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:31 PM   #10
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I'll be using a breathable indoor cover, therefore mine will be cracked open.

I might even put a small, timer-controlled fan inside to circulate the air.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:52 PM   #11
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They used to sell solar powered window fans years ago. They were very popular here in Florida since you close your window almost to the top and they would pull out the hot air from inside the car and help circulate the cooler air back in.

If you're using a car cover, that sort of fan wouldn't work since it's solar powered but I'm sure you could hook it up to a small 6V power adapter from radio shack with just some minor work.

If you do a search on the popular auction site for solar powered window fan you'll see a few.
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:53 PM   #12
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Default Putting your baby to bed for the winter...

The best thing you can do is put your tires on carpet. Cold can bring dampness to the frame, which can start the rusting process. This will also prevent dampness from getting inside the car. The best of course is to put your car upon stands. Keeping a full tank of gas will keep condensation out of the tank. We always park our airplanes on the ramp with a full tank of gas. Engines should be run every 90 days to keep important engine parts from rusting. In addition, you can give it a little rev then turn the key off so the oil will not be burned off upper cylinder walls. We do that in our airplanes because we don’t know how long they will sit before they are flown again.

Lastly, I would roll the windows up to keep the critters out.

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Old 09-17-2006, 11:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VETFVER
The best of course is to put your car upon stands.
Many will say that this is not a good practice because it keeps the suspension in an unnatural position for extended periods of time.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZaneO
Many will say that this is not a good practice because it keeps the suspension in an unnatural position for extended periods of time.
If that is a concern, put the wheels on wood blocks. Carpet samples will do the job and keep your car on the ground at the same time. The point is to put some distance between the tires and the cement floor.

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Old 09-18-2006, 10:24 AM   #15
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Do I need to use carpet if I have plastic tiles (eg: Race Deck or similar) on my floor?
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:11 AM   #16
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I place a large plastic tarp (industrial thickness) on the concrete floor
- pump up the tires to the max on the side wall
- put 2" thick blue styrofoam sheeting under the tires( it compresses form the weight and cradles the tires.
-Coat the weatherstrip with silicone grease
- close the windows ( silica gel or damp rid inside the car to absorb moisture)
- put a battery tender on the battery
- fill the gas tank and add fuel stabilizer
- change the engine oil
- check the antifreeze in the rad and washer fluid.
- put a coat of wax/paint sealant on the car
- condition the leather seats
- put aerospace 303 on all vinyl surfaces
- double cover the car to give some extra protection against accidents.
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vette Dream
Hey folks, I'll be storing my car shortly for winter, and have informed myself quite well from doing a search on this site regarding the steps to take.

My car will be stored in a heated facily at constant temperature (60ish degrees I would say).

I do have one question: should I leave the windows completely shut or just slightly cracked open? What are the pros/cons of each alternative?

Thanks in advance!


I store my vette each year and never have a problem from October thru March.
1. change oil before storing
2. put carpet under each tire to prevent dampness
3. connect battery tender
4. make sure auto is clean
5. leave windows cracked to allow air flow
6. keep auto covered to prevent any damage.
7. keep gas tank at full
Just my $.02
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VETFVER
The point is to put some distance between the tires and the cement floor.

VETFVER

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfMoriarty
Do I need to use carpet if I have plastic tiles (eg: Race Deck or similar) on my floor?


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Old 09-19-2006, 01:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIDOauto



"Some distance" is a relative term:

1 mil?

1/2" which is the thickness of Race deck?

The thickness of your skull?

The question is, is the thickness and construction of Race Deck adequate to isolate the tires from dampness from the cement floor.

Last edited by ProfMoriarty; 09-19-2006 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:59 PM   #20
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Default Vehicle Vehicle Storage

Winter must be coming (time to become a snowbird and head for FL)

Vehicle Storage
•Change the oil and filter.
•Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
•Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
•Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
•Spray distributor with WD-40
•Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
•Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
•Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
•Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
•Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
•Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
•Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
•Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
•Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
•Remove spark plugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
•Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
•Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings
•Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover
•Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.
•Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
•Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:59 PM
 
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