My mother told me not to buy black. I didn't listen and bought black anyway. Anyone know a good remedy to remove water spots? I tried wax and Zaino. Nothing I have tried seems to work. Any ideas?
Location: Never take a girl out for a cup of coffee, the last thing you want her to be is alert and focused. Tampa, FL
vinegar, diluted or full strength depending on the water spot. If that doesn't work then a clay bar will most likely do the trick. I have also heard of people using meguiars scratch x on stubborn water spots.
vinegar, diluted or full strength depending on the water spot. If that doesn't work then a clay bar will most likely do the trick. I have also heard of people using meguiars scratch x on stubborn water spots.
Its best to get them out now as opposed to later too. The good news is is that they will come out, just depends on how deep you need to go with the cleaners. Make sure you put som rejax on afterwords.
Its best to get them out now as opposed to later too. The good news is is that they will come out, just depends on how deep you need to go with the cleaners. Make sure you put som rejax on afterwords.
My mother told me not to buy black. I didn't listen and bought black anyway. Anyone know a good remedy to remove water spots? I tried wax and Zaino. Nothing I have tried seems to work. Any ideas?
I use McGuires "instant detailer" on my black Linclon LS, but bought the Vette in yellow for the reasons you mother told you.
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
[b]Removing water spots:[/b]
There are two categories of water spots;
a) Surface water spots-alkaline watermarks (water spots) are calcium and magnesium salts that deposit on the surface after the water has evaporated, the minute crystals bond to the surface and are not re-dissolvable in water. Rainwater also contains alkaline minerals that alight on the paint film surface and as the water evaporates leave white `water spots' on both the paint and glass surfaces. Alkaline water spots (sprinkler water) require an acid (vinegar is a Acetic acid pH 2.0.) to remove them, any subsequent etching requires an abrasive to level the paint surface
b) Below surface (etched) water spots- are caused by acid rain (pH 3 – 4.0) or industrial fallout causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched water spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid rain spots require an Alkaline to neutralize them
(See also Industrial fall out (IFO) and Acid rain)
a) Removing water spots from glass- rainwater sometimes contains alkaline minerals that alight on the paint film surface and as the water evaporates leave white `water spots' on glass surfaces. Mineral deposits can be caused by water from a light summer shower, or a lawn sprinkler system that that dries on the glass surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit.
These can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, and then using a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) for stubborn spots polish them using method (b)
Methodology
•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar , adjust ratio as required
b) A 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.Allow vinegar (Acetic acid) solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Microfiber cloth to apply the solution to the glass surface
•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•If any `water spots' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to 100% cotton Microfiber towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.
•If this does not remove the `water spots' use a chemical type ‘polish’ (Autoglym Car Glass PolishTM )and fine grade bronze wool (http://www.briwax-online.com) use straight-line motions only (circular motions cause swirl marks)
•For stubborn water spots use (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system (http:// www.autoint.com) a safe alkaline wash and neutralizing system This three part system comprises; A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailers clay to remove ‘water spots’) and C- Surface Conditioner with a pH of 7.0, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching will require an abrasive to level the paint surface
b) Removing etched (below surface) water spots from glass--- are caused by acid rain or industrial fallout causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched water spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them.
These can usually be removed using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits and then using a mechanical type abrasive polish (Zaino ZPC Fusion) with #0000 synthetic steel wool or Iz Einzette Glas Polish, a random orbital buffer (speed # 4) and a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow) to level the surface.
Notes:
Do not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.
1.For deeply etched water spots' in the glass surface, do not attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive glass vendor as glass used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer) due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause glass to crack.
2.Be cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like aluminium or cerium oxide as they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.
3.Some windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will scratch or be damaged, only polish or use synthetic wool on uncoated glass.
[each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
1a) Removing surface water spots from paint film surface-
Methodology
•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar
b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
Allow vinegar solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface
•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface
•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•If any `water spots' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)
1b) Removing etched water (below surface) spots from paint-
Methodology
•These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits
•Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish or Compound, Klasse All-In-One ) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4) to level the surface
•Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out
•Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary
•Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.
1c) For stubborn water spots use (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system (http:// www.autoint.com) a safe alkaline wash and neutralizing system This three part system comprises; A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailers clay to remove ‘water spots’) and C- Surface Conditioner with a pH of 7.0, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching will require an abrasive to level the paint surface
If water dries on a paint surface ultra violet radiation (heat) radiation (UVR) will cause water spotting, especially if it contains an excess of minerals, which will etch the surface, an acetic acid (vinegar) will remove the spotting and an abrasive polish to level the paint surface may be necessary
[each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]
I have a black minivan which which takes longer to cleanup than my wifes pearl white vehicle and my Vette combined!!!
I broke down this summer and spent $200 for a deionizer....quite frankly the last item I ever invisioned myself purchasing but the battle I faced with water spotting on the finish and chrome rims wore me down.
I tested it out of the box on a 90 degree/full sun day. I washed it in the sun, midafternoon.
Dried spotfree!!!! I'm sold.
Location: Never take a girl out for a cup of coffee, the last thing you want her to be is alert and focused. Tampa, FL
I sort of purchased the same thing except that I got a reverse osmosis system and deionization cartridge working together($150) so I only need to change the filter about once a year and even then, it's only $20.
Good luck if you have to polish them out. If they have been there for a while, the vette clearcoat is very hard. With a PC its going to be very hard to get them out if they have set in for a while.
vinegar, diluted or full strength depending on the water spot. If that doesn't work then a clay bar will most likely do the trick. I have also heard of people using meguiars scratch x on stubborn water spots.
Thanks everyone for the advice, especially TOGWT's long detail. I will try the clay bar first and let you all know. One more question, if have several coats of wax on the car now, will the clay bar be effective or should I first use the vinegar to remove the wax then the clay bar?
Last edited by Bosscar9er; 01-01-2006 at 03:25 PM.
Maguires scratch-x,about 5 bucks,works great!auto parts store.
yup --
my opinion and experience with black car left in the sun each year under sprinklers:
don't waste time with vinegar or clay bar - won't do a damned thing
start with scratch X and terry towel - it will do the trick for any spots , unless really baked in for months
for spots that are etched in, use 3M fine cut rubbing compoud #39002 - it will work with a terry towel, or much easier with a PC7424
If you are using scratch X or 3M, no need to remove your sealant first - these abrasives will do that. So afterward, when your finish is perfect again, be sure to seal up the paint again. Purists will tell you to use a half-half rubbing alcohol-water wipe after the abrasive product, but I've never done that, and am happy with the results.
TOGWT has some of the best information to progress into the water spots moving from least abrasive to most abrasive. I will tell you in anything other than relatively new spots, you most likely will end up at the paint "polish" stage quite quickly.
With polishes you can also start with some of the least abrasive polishes (ScratchX, Poorboys 1.0) and move to the extreme as needed (compounds = most abrasive) . I have found that a relatively abrasive polish (Menzerna Intesive Polish, Poorboys 2.5, Optimum Hyper) is usually needed with a cutting (orange or yellow) pad initially when working with a PC and higher rpms.
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