Procharger re-clock thread with new A&A bracket and other goodies!
This is somewhat of a duplicate post that I made over in the Forced Induction section. I wanted to post up what I've done recently to my car.
In the fall I installed a set of B&B bullets and over the winter I installed some Radioflyer projector HID's as well as a set of Caravaggio seats which I absolutely love!
About a month and a half ago I replaced my rad cradle, stood up the rad from its previous laid down position and installed all of A&A's new piping and ram air intercooler. At the same time I installed a MCM carbon fiber hood which looks awesome! I also installed my CCW C14 Corsairs (satin black), 18x10 front and 19x11 rear with Nitto Invo rubber which I purchased from FactoryRaceCar (Nouman). Nouman is a great guy and has even sent me some black lugs free of charge, although I haven't had time to install them yet!
Three weeks ago I installed some C6 Z06 brakes along with DRM braided (Goodridge) brake lines.
Most recently I re-clocked my Procharger head unit and installed A&A's new Procharger bracket. I used Andy's instructions from his site with no issues whatsoever!
I first tore into my car and removed the old Gen 1 A&A bracket and removed the 180 degree t-stat and swapped in a 160 degree unit. I had to grind off the ear of the thermostat housing as i figured it would interefere if I didn't.
Next, I removed the head-unit from the bracket iteslf. The hardest part about this was getting the pulley off the shaft. I ended up borrowing a 6" gear puller and removing it that way. Once the blower was off the bracket, I drained the oil and started the re-clocking process.
First, I removed all of the allen key bolts fastening the gear case down and thn used a tiny flathead screwdriver to just slightly crack the case open. After it was opened a little bit, I used a 1" wide firm putty knife and went along the edge of the case tapping it gently while avoiding the rubber o-ring on the inside edge. Once it was half way opened I used some larger screwdrivers to seperate the cover completely from the gear case.
Once the case was opened, I removed the old input shaft seal and replaced it with a brand new one, SKF11625. The old one simply gets tapped out and the new one, gently pressed in. Mine wasn't leaking but I figured that I might as well replace it since I was in there anyways. I then replaced the o-ring seal that goes around the outside edge of the case and then moved the oil slinger gear to its proper new location. Next, I moved the drain bolt to its new position and moved the dipstick to its new spot. The dipstick is a longer 9.5" unit from Procharger.
Once that was all done, the case was closed up and then I moved the volute as per A&A's instructions to its new position. I had to leave out two of the screws securing the volute to the head unit as one of the bolt holes was now hidden behind the gearcase and the other bolt was interfering with my MCM hood.
Now that the head unit was reclocked and the volute adjusted, I mounted the head-unit up to my new A&A bracket. I routed the belt around the tensioner and opened the adjustable slide idler pulley completely to enable me to get the belt on. Once the belt was routed properly I used a pry bar and sinched the belt down with the slide idler pulley and tightend it down. The belt wrap (pictured) is very impressive! I used a Goodyear Gatorback 4060930 belt with my 4.25" pulley.
Next, I ran my piping. I put a 4" section of hose on the volute and then ran a 6" hard pipe into a 90 degree elbow, into an 8" hard pipe, into a 45 degree elbow, into my BOV tube, into a 90 degree elbow and into the IC. I moved the PS cooler over a few inches towards the drivers side for better clearance. I am using Andys new Ram-air intercooler with passenger side inlet and all of his new piping/ shrouding. My kit is now essentially the exact same as his new Vortech kits but with a Procharger head-unit.
Some of the part #'s I noticed while inside the blower were;
input shaft seal CR11625 30x47x7mm
oil slinger bearing was marked (Koyo C3 6000)
bearing on the middle shaft was marked (ME1204DL Thrust NHBB USA)
bearing on top shaft was marked (Koyo Japan 6206)
the o-ring that surrounds the gear case is a 23.75" unit, unsure of the diameter though.
Also, in the last few weeks I swapped on my C6 Z06 brakes and also the MCM hood as well as Noumans old CCW C14's. I still have to swap on the new black lugs that Nouman sent me N/C!
This is what she looked like last year under the hood.
Here's a few pics of the car as of today! Excuse the dirty underhood shots as i haven't had time to detail it.
Still needs to get detailed but that will come in a few weeks once I get back from China. I'm also going to install an Alkycontrol system as well as a Wideband and I am planning on sending a copy of the tune to Arun to have him look over it and make sure all is good! Also, a new Vortech BOV gasket is on the way to replace the makeshift modified thermostat gasket that I'm using to get by.
Just for the DIY'ers out there, this was all done in a garage on jack stands/ ramps with basic tools.
Big thanks to,
Factoryracecar (nouman)
EvlZ06 (Gil)
Arun at champion motors
Procharger (super fast shipping and supplied me with a few parts they said they've never sold to the public before!)
Bob at Fitchner GM for the rad hoses and air dam assembly
Steve and Andy at A&A
CF member Bruce
There are others that helped so feel free to chime in if I forgot you!
Here's a little sound vid clip taken with my camera (sorry about the quality!) of the car at idle. That Vortech bypass sure sounds noisy! I was trying to get a sound clip of the Procharger noise for another forum member. Trust me, it doesn't sound like a washing machine in person!
Awesome job and write up, it's even cooler that you did the install yourself, I wish I more mechanically inclined!
Love your license plate too.
Thanks!
I would have had Procharger do the re-clock but they wanted about $130 u.s. plus shipping both ways would have been killer and more than likely a couple weeks of down time. Plus, it's more rewarding doing things yourself and learning about your car!
I just bought my Alkycontrol set-up so that's next on the install list along with a wideband, not sure on which one yet??
I plan to upgrade the valve springs and pushrods later this year as well just to be on the safe side.
Great job, it looks great; and the MCM hood is very nice!
I think I am even more impressed with the fact that you did all the work yourself, way to go!! I don't know too many other later model owners that actually work on their own cars, other than installing stickers and floor mats!!
Unbelieveable that i can post up a big thread with a zillion pics and not really post up what "re-clocking" means!
If you look at the first pic of the opened up blower, you'll see the oil slinger gear (bottom gear) sitting right in the middle. Further down you'll see it moved off to the side. The oil drain plug is also moved to a new position as well as the dipstick location along with a longer dipstick. Basically, since the blower was going to be mounted at a different angle, the oil slinger gear had to be moved. It is supposed to sit at 6 o'clock when the blower is mounted to provide proper lubrication.
The re-location of the slinger gear is what "re-clocking" means!
I doubt Procharger would screw up so I'm sure yours is fine! I am using an A&A Corvettes bracket and not an ATI bracket which is why mine required the re-clock. Post up a pic of your engine bay if you have one as i'd love to see it!
I doubt Procharger would screw up so I'm sure yours is fine! I am using an A&A Corvettes bracket and not an ATI bracket which is why mine required the re-clock. Post up a pic of your engine bay if you have one as i'd love to see it!
Tyler, way to go man, u keep improving your car with great taste of mods. U pretty much covered the whole car, under the hood, exterior (hood and wheels are amazing) and interior (caravaggio seats)...wow.
Tyler, way to go man, u keep improving your car with great taste of mods. U pretty much covered the whole car, under the hood, exterior (hood and wheels are amazing) and interior (caravaggio seats)...wow.
Sami,
Thanks for the kind words! I have an Alkycontrol kit and AEM wideband going into the car along with a "beer panel" as soon as I return from an upcoming trip. After that, I plan to upgrade the valve springs and pushrods and that will be it for the mods this year!
Tyler, Valve springs and push rods prolly overkill but wont hurt though, as u FI guys dont rev to moon and so not much engine load on valvetrain, but as i said they are not expensive and easy to install so what the heck, i have a Crane nice valve spring tool, if u dont have this tool and i can lend u and ship it back to me, this is the tool every C5 should have. You can change 2 springs in one shot.
What springs and push rods you going with? i assume u dont have aftermarket cam, so dual valve spring might be too stiff for your application, have u considered PAC springs 1218 (supports .600 lift) and 1518 (supports .650 lift) and both single valve springs but hardened treated pretty strong though.
I know u posted about which wideband is best, if u came accross or someone pmed about selling you a used or new for <=200 bucks redirect to me i need one (its optional though).
I got an AEM uego wideband kit for under $200 shipped to a U.S. address about an hour from my house. The reviews were good and the price is pretty much unbeatable. Check the big auction site for the best price. I'll pm you the link to the guy I bought mine from!
As for the springs, I have been told that with FI applications, even on stock cam, Patriot dual gold extremes will be my best choice. I'm going with those and either comp hi-tech pushrods or a set of Patriot hardened pushrods. I'm planning to drop in a forged 347 or 402 two years from now with an ecs or A&A blower cam and shooting for 750+!
I will more than likely take you up on your offer and borrow the tool from you but I'm also considering buying one as I have a few local guys that want to change springs and i will make up the cost of the tool by doing it for them. Can you PM me with any resources/links/info you used when swapping your springs and pushrods?
I have not yet installed springs and pushrods, my Lpe 243 LS6 heads came with comp 921 spring set already installed, but when i bought this crane tool, i was playing install/uninstall and it was most friendly tool i ever had, i did install springs and rockers my previous C4 using conventional spring compressor, oh man that was a fight.
If u would like to have great info springs and pushrods, than pm vettenuts (bob) or y2kvert4me (tom) they both will walk you thru with thier eyes closed.
But in Tech section info about how to check pushrod length and setting about Springs and rocker geometry bob (vettenuts) is the man to talk, just use search function.
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Procharger re-clock thread with new A&A bracket and other goodies!
