jrthe1

Long story but is there a way to close the frunk if the fuse is blown for the power close feature? And/or can I drive the car if the frunk lid is on the first latch and not fully closed? See my post front camera stopped working. Thanks

Kevin A Jones

You must have a '24 since power close. You can't just push to close if your the power assist isn't working? Seems it would be designed to do such.
You would most likely be ok driving a short distance at low speeds to the dealer with only first latch, however don't think I'd chance it.
Good luck getting it fixed.

LeJerk

Yes, you can push it all the way down and it will latch correctly. Sometimes the it doesn't want to close automatically and I have to do this on mine.

jrthe1

Hmmm. I tried but doesn't seem to work. Remember the fuse is blown that powers the soft close feature.

LeJerk

Maybe try to manually open it via the pull handle under the dashboard, then closing it again. Instructions in owners manual.

jrthe1

Thanks. I might try that but worried that it might fully open and then not be able to get it to the first latch position requiring a flat bed tow.

Kevin A Jones

I don't know why they went to the power assist frunk close. Is certainly easy enough to close your frunk on '23s and earlier without power assist. Just another feature to break.

24RiptideBlue

Mine is the same. Sometimes I have to close it manually although I’m not sure why my guess is the auxiliary power shuts down after a certain amount of time. If I don’t “wake mine up” before disconnecting my battery tender the frunk won’t auto close.

24RiptideBlue

I don’t get it either especially as it doesn’t work all the time.

jrthe1

I pushed the latch under the drivers headlight as usual, and the hood opened to the first latch. The hood will not allow me to open it any further. The hood will not allow me to latch it manually. I pushed down on it and I pushed as far and hard as I want to. I don’t want to risk damaging the hood. Remember I believe fuse 36 that powers both the front camera and power frunk closing is blown. How hard and how far down do you have to push down on the hood?

Zymurgy

Why not replace the fuse?

24RiptideBlue

Ugh, weird and annoying…. So there is (or was) power to the latch to allow it to pop open to position one but won’t let go any further 🤔

When I manually close my hood I worry about putting a slight ding in the metal so I use a micro fiber towel and try to apply pressure as close the edge is possible. The metal should be stronger at the edges. I have to push until the hood is flush with nose. If you have to push the hood down lower than flush that’s not right and I don’t think it’s going to re latch unless it’s opened fully first.

If it won’t re latch maybe it’s time to pull the emergency manual cable in the driver footwell?

Someone said it’s takes a really strong pull on the cable and it might be a good idea to put a screwdriver or small handle through the loop to get a better grip. And just to make it as challenging as possible I would recommend someone gently lifting the hood while you pull the cable. The latch may only “let go” while it’s being pulled…. Hopefully that makes sense.

24RiptideBlue

If you push the switch under the light again does it make any sound? Will it cycle through again?

jrthe1

The lights flash as usual, and it makes a sound, but it doesn’t pop up all the way it still remains on the first latch.

jrthe1

i’m pretty sure I can get the hood open with the emergency cable. I am afraid though that once I get it open, I will not be able to get it to close even on the first latch. I am either going to take it to the dealership if I can get the hood closed, if I can’t i’ll be damned if I’m going to have a flatbed towed to the dealer so I’ll try to disassemble the area between the seats to get to the fuse box.

JerryU

Hmm, maybe not pushing hard enough BUT:
With fuse fine, IF I wait too long before closing cannot push and have it latch. I have to open again and then with a push it closes, and motor pulls it to latch????

24RiptideBlue

If you have decided that you want the dealer to figure out what’s wrong (makes perfect sense) and are dead set against flat bed you could drive it with it on the first latch if you don’t exceed 30mph but you might hear a lot of rattling and that might make a mess of the latch….

I had two other thoughts… again just trying to help… one is if the switch will cycle I might try having someone gently tug open the hood while cycling the switch…. Assuming it hopefully opens and resets as it should…

Or call the service department and ask them what to do if you can’t get it closed. They can’t claim you made it worse or are part of the problem if you ask them how you’re supposed to get it serviced if you can’t close the hood. Annoying….

Soap box…. I don’t need an auto closing frunk and I’ve never had an old school manual latch fail.
These cars have two automatic latches 🤦‍♂️ . Your experience alone and I don’t care if you are the only one… tells me I’d rather have manual latches.

jrthe1

Thanks, 24 riptide blue. At this point, I will call the dealer when they open at 8:30 AM tomorrow and see if they have any advice. And by the way, I never had a problem with the power closing frunk at all. It worked perfectly and I never had an issue using it. This all started with my front curbside cameras not working. I found out that fuse 36 was for the front curbside cameras and the power closing frunk. So I decided to open the frunk to see if it would open and it did to the fiirst latch position but it doesn’t close. So that tells me that fuse number 36 is blowin and that’s where I am, After tugging on the hood in latch position one it seems to me that I might be able to go faster than 30 miles an hour. Maybe I could put some nice microfiber towels in the opening to dampen the hood chatter. We’ll see what the dealer says in the morning. Any one with any other ideas? Maybe it’s best I gut it out and replace the fuse but removing that rear cover looks to be kind of a chore.

24RiptideBlue

The 30MPH was a definitely a wild *** gas on my part… maybe it’s 40MPH, maybe even more but I wouldn’t chance going much more than 40mph because it’s just not worth the risk. If the worst occurred and the wind snapped it back OMG it’s going to cause some expensive damage…

I don’t know anything about what’s involved to access that fuse. If there are instructions in the manual and it’s supposed be owner accessible I would probably give it a whirl but if not I would leave it alone. All modern interiors are held together with plastic clips. And disassembly requires prying and knowing where the clips are etc. I don’t work on interiors because I always break the clips and get pissed. Always. 🤷‍♂️

seems like you’re on the right track. Good luck!

Zymurgy

Here's a video on accessing the rear fuse box.

Starts at 5:38.