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Even with the special adapter, it was slower to remove these since the socket needs to be perfectly aligned, or else it starts stripping. I don't have time for that, sorry! Just source Hex M8-1.25 x 25mm, and you're good : )
While the Lisle set isn't advertised as low profile sockets they have a very shallow chamfer compared to other Torx Plus sets. Real low profile Torx Plus sockets are expensive. The other option is to grind down the chamfer until the socket can get a good bite on the head. Using regular Torx Plus sockets on low profile Torx Plus bolts can strip the heads.
While the Lisle set isn't advertised as low profile sockets they have a very shallow chamfer compared to other Torx Plus sets. Real low profile Torx Plus sockets are expensive. The other option is to grind down the chamfer until the socket can get a good bite on the head. Using regular Torx Plus sockets on low profile Torx Plus bolts can strip the heads.
my 23' are also torx plus I have a set of the low profile sockets with a small chamfer it works fine on tedious alignment or problems wanting to strip, The right tool makes all the difference.
So does anyone have a GM torque spec for these bolts?
I made a thread when I changed my DCT fluid and attached the applicable sections from the service manual for removing/installing the shear plate which includes the torques: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...dct-fluid.html
Agreed but now that mine are stripped (I bought the right socket) I’m not wanting to pay $3+ each for 21 of them. If I could find the etorx cheaper I’d get them.
And there you have the answer. Snap-On, Mac (Stanley) and the other tool manufacturers thank the automotive industry for requiring you to purchase another tool.
Just astounding the technology that went into the design and application processes for these screws.
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Unless significant tension strength is required, I often replace steel screws/bolts with stainless steel just to avoid the appearance of rust. General purpose stainless steel screws/bolts are not very strong for tension loads. They really need anti-seize and it doesn't take much of a tension load for the heads to pop off.
These are special "Flow Drill Screws". They are installed by robots and actually tap the metal they are drilling into. Here's a pic:
Here's a great article on them: https://www.assemblymag.com/articles...rs-shed-weight
Those look like the smaller self tap screws on the shock mount castings, and at the front of the back deck at the bottom of the window.
Yes, Self tappers = danger. You don't have too many choices with those, just put it back in and tighten carefully.
The bolts under the car on my 23 are not self tappers. You can see the lead in in the post #1 picture. No threads for the first 3 mm. No self tap threads.
They do look like that Torx Plus head. Amazing what you can learn about bolt technology.
Oh Brother. I bought external Torx sockets and had to modify all of them in the lathe because they had a deep chamfer that made them useless.
Now I have to buy Torx Plus.
I made a thread when I changed my DCT fluid and attached the applicable sections from the service manual for removing/installing the shear plate which includes the torques: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...dct-fluid.html
The problem with button head screws in an undercarriage environment is they can get damaged during scraping and become a PITA to remove. At least with normal fasteners you can usually get vice grips on them if all else fails.
03-29-2024, 03:12 PM
