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However you like driving the car (other than creeping along with your foot on the brake). It was designed to be driven in fully automatic mode as well as manually.
I drive mine like an automatic except when I'm not. It doesn't matter how you drive it, it works both ways. My only useful advice is to not bother pulling the paddles to put it in neutral at stop signs, just not necessary.
On a track I use manual mode to prevent it from shifting all the way down to highest rpm gear which is not necessary. Example if the car will shift down to a screaming 2nd gear I avoid it in M by not dropping below 3rd.
I echo a number of others. I drive my DCT just like any automatic. Pulling paddles and all that advice is not necessary and probably more damage, over the long run, than good.
I do suggest braking a little more deliberately. As others have said, don't soft pedal the brake. Instead of gradually coming to a stop, wait a little longer and stop more aggressively. This is better for brake pad wear too.
The worst condition for a DCT is stop and go rush hour type traffic. Creeping along at idle, stopping, creeping, stopping, etc.
I don't pull the paddles (referred to as the "double paddle declutch" in the Owners Manual) at a stop, nor do I put the transmission in neutral. The stop and go traffic concern mentioned above is about the so called "idle creep" or "transmission creep" feature. This occurs just after you have released the foot brake and before you accelerate. The engine rpm will increase slightly, and the clutch will engage slightly more, but still slipping, until the forward speed of the car allows full clutch engagement. It is a normal design feature discussed in the Service Manual. I can't find a reference to it in the Owners Manual. Anyway, there is a concern about clutch wear, and maybe heating, if this idle creep mode is used continuously in stop and go traffic. It can be reduced by fully stopping the car, and then when moving forward, allowing the car to come up quickly to a speed where the clutch can full engage. Honestly, I don't worry about it - but then I have not driven the car much in stop and go traffic. Below is a clip from the Service Manual that says that the feature that allows forward motion at idle is "normal". In other parts of the Service Manual its called "Transmission Creep" . There are conditions that will disable the feature. I think some have reported getting an alert on the DIC that idle creep mode is disabled.
what's the proper way to drive a dual clutch? should the car be driven as an automatic?
does the wet clutch slip out of friction when the brake is on?
should wheel shift handles be pulled to disengage slipping clutch? should neutral be selected at stops?
thanks in advance!
My experience may help. For the 1st month getting over EVERY DD for 62 years having a 3rd pedal I ONLY use Manual Mode. But at the end of the rural road I live on is a stop sign before entering a 4 lane divided highway with access to both directions. I have to merge into often heavy traffic going and coming from Myrtle Beach to I95 South. I take back roads to town not I95 so have to cross 2 lanes and merge with traffic in the next two. Problem is with the steering wheel turned and accelerating to merge, the upshift paddle is out of position. After hitting the rev limiter several times (the rev limit in 1st is ~35 mph and you reach that in the blink of an eye) I switched to driving in Z Mode, Power set to Track. In that month was pulling both paddles to disengage both clutches. Now in Z Mode I don't bother. Yep the 1st gear clutch is slipping when stopped but Tadge said it's designed to do that.
It also appears with foot firmly on the brake the clutch engagement pressure is low. BUT avoid letting the car creep forward. Someone complained that with light brake pressure the rpm increases. Probably true as like a standard shift, when you start to fully engage the clutch have to increase throttle! Also when in bumper-to-bumper traffic don't treat it like a "slushbox" torque converter and creek forward following the car in front. I use the same technique I used with my standard shifts. Let he car in front get a few car lengths and slow or stop then move forward.
One last note. For the 1st 800 to 1000 miles as the 1st gear multiplate clutch was wearing in when going very slow (<5 mph) it felt a little jerky. Other found the same. After ~1000 and now with ~9000 miles it's perfectly smooth even at low speeds. BUT avoid just creeping very slow if you can.
"I do suggest braking a little more deliberately. As others have said, don't soft pedal the brake. Instead of gradually coming to a stop, wait a little longer and stop more aggressively. This is better for brake pad wear too."
If you have had a stick shift car / truck... and like to shift, the paddles work great. The anti roll back feature will help when you are on a hill after you stop. If you do pull both paddles, at the stop light, the anti roll back will not work.. Revving up thru the gears in MANUAL mode is almost a fun as a Stick because you control the up / down shift point.
In AUTO mode it works just like a AUTO on any car... with the exception: don't allow the car to creep forward with your foot on the brake. The Sting ray will up shift and down shift when it right for the driving mode you selected. Try it in TOUR, then go to SPORT and see how the shift point are higher. SPORT mode in AUTO can be almost as fun as MANUAL mode.
Try different Modes and MANUAL and AUTO.
Bottom line is the engine and DTC are protected by some Elf (Komputer) that lives in the bowels of the car so you can't hurt it.
Have fun and ... do what I like to do... Drive it like you stole it...
driving along and getting used to the car, i appreciate not having the car downshift through the gears on decel, aka double shift paddle releasing the clutch when coasting to a stop or even getting some coasting in along any stretch that allows.
not as magical as my 1le camaro ss, that car has an incredibly good combination of steering, brake, shift, clutch, mag ride, chassis, everything, but using neutral gives me back some control and driving enjoyment. i burned through the outside of the tires on my camaro enjoying the car, just testing out the handling limits and feeling the steering, lol
when allowable by HPTuners, along with adding some timing and HP and tossing 4cyl mode, ill probably move shift point allowance on each gear to around 700 RPM, again, to give me freedom to manage the car my way. fck nannies!
cheers to all of my fellow C8 owners on picking this one up, great car so far, and big reward for kicking a lousy spouse out!!
^^^
So far after 3+ years no one breaking the code. BUT if you havn't tried Z Mode Power set to Track, it's like driving another car. Shifts about the way I did my two manual C7's (Z51 then Grand Sport) in our rural area.
First it will not go into V4
It shifts up and down at higher rpm
IF you have MRC can set ride to wherever you want (I'm in Sport) Steering, eBoost and NPP wherever you would like.
It won't shift to 6th until after ~70 mph.
Never will use 7th or 8th. Actually 4th and 5th are OD ratios.
I have fun leaving a highway with ~70 mph traffic in front of our 25 mph limit rural road. So the often heavy traffic does not have to slow for me I brake hard and it downshifts usually 3 can be 4 gears, rev matching each. All in the blink of an eye! I call it rev match music! Cheers trading in spouse for C8!
12-17-2022, 11:15 AM
What is best way to drive dual clutch?
