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Opening the door fully can chip your paint!

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Old 03-24-2020, 03:27 PM
  #61  
JerryU
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^^^^
Sure sounds like a screw supplier issue! If that is normal length variability- a design change is needed.

Last edited by JerryU; 03-24-2020 at 03:32 PM.
Old 03-24-2020, 03:31 PM
  #62  
ToddC7
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Originally Posted by Yarbie
How could a super car, exotic car have such a thing? I mean were spending $60k folks, not good.
I think most are around $80-85K. Yes, people make mistakes. But QC should have caught it.

Stop apologizing for GM. They made a great car, but mistakes happen. Better to point it out and get it 'on the list'. Also, QC needs to be trained better - attention to detail is important in this segment.





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Old 03-24-2020, 05:16 PM
  #63  
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Here is my door. Very close, maybe like a Credit Card. Don'

t know if the Dealer is going to be able to do anything about this, especially right now with many dealerships either closing or in chaos.

Last edited by kong; 03-24-2020 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:56 PM
  #64  
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Definitely need GM to become acutely aware of this situation so they can take ample steps to insure it doesn't happen anymore. I'm sure they will, it's a simple fix. easy. The harder part is the repair to damage..It's a shame it happened. In the big picture it's not a huge deal, but now you have the dilemma of paint match/blending.or trying some type of chip repair or maybe a"confined spray" if there is such a term.

I'm a do-it-yourself type but matching paint color is not that easy. What I do see in that close up is that the chip stays within a small body line."If it were me",I think my first attempt would be to TRY to keep all work inboard of that body line. A little filler, light sand(keeping as small as possible)and touch up spray keeping it too, as small as possible, and using the body line as a break point,not past it. This will likely leave a small paint ridge when you unmask,BUT it is on a line and you would still have all original paint on the overall large surface of the door and fender,and only inside that body line for a couple inches would be the repair spot. For me, I think I could live with a slight 1 inch paint lip in THAT spot,rather than a full door/fender blend. Or even a whole new door like OP was talking because you still may have paint variance. Car looks white to me or light grey. White is tough to match I hear

Than again I might just be crazy?
Old 03-24-2020, 06:49 PM
  #65  
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plant was aware of this before the first post. issue has been addressed already. hope that helps. i'm sure Jeremy can confirm through his pal as well.
Old 03-24-2020, 07:12 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 16/C7Z
plant was aware of this before the first post. issue has been addressed already. hope that helps. i'm sure Jeremy can confirm through his pal as well.
Mine is extremely close, and it's a very early build. Are GM going to tell dealers to fix it?
Old 03-24-2020, 07:53 PM
  #67  
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According to a Corvette team member the screw was too long obviously and it was caught and swapped during production early. Unfortunately some made it through.

Why they didn't contact the dealers that those cars went to? I will never understand. Maybe some were lucky enough to NOT open the door all the way yet. Is what it is.
Old 03-24-2020, 08:06 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by JerryU
^^^
Typical automotive assembly does not have folks picking the correct length screw. That assembly station is provided with the screw length needed in that location. However depends how the screws are supplied so could be some longer ones were mixed.
Exactly. I had a tater tot in my french fries one time.
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:39 PM
  #69  
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Typical GM quality!
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:58 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by kong
Here is my door. Very close, maybe like a Credit Card. Don'

t know if the Dealer is going to be able to do anything about this, especially right now with many dealerships either closing or in chaos.
My C8 serial number is 870....just check both doors. I'm all clear, although the clearance is small like Kong's.
Old 03-25-2020, 04:47 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by tcfake613
I have no issues with clearance on that screw. At least 1/4" clearance. Also, my panel gaps are relatively tight and consistent throughout the entire car. VIN #1925 for reference.
I have 1924. Not hitting on the left but I don't think I can get a piece of paper between the screw and the door. Glad I saw this thread. I'm tempted to cut it but my wife said no. I will call them when I'm off next week
Just had a break in the rain so I could back out and look at the right side. About a 1/4 inch gap. Same length of screw sticking out of the spring nut. Same door gaps..Might just be my eyes but the left side spring nut looks to be 3 threads deep and right side 2 threads. Or whatever that attaches to inside the inner fender is closer on the left. Either way is to close.

Last edited by Bud Watkins; 03-25-2020 at 07:10 PM.
Old 03-25-2020, 05:07 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Yarbie
How could a super car, exotic car have such a thing? I mean were spending $60k folks, not good.
This is what I was saying in the other thread in regards to explaining of why this car requires post delivery wing installation which itself requires removal of bumper and drilling of holes....

The reason is simple because its cheap and corners are cut to make it affordable.

When C8 is compared to 911, people always omit what they want. They need to compare not only the lap times but the full package.
Old 03-25-2020, 05:46 PM
  #73  
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Has anybody tried to access this screw from it's head to remove it?
Old 03-25-2020, 06:56 PM
  #74  
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^^^
Hmm, looks like it's behind the inner fender well. Probably have to remove it 1st. Much easier to just "Cut It Off!"

A Hacksaw Blade should do it. There are holders that allow you to use one end BUT wrapping a rag around one end works!


Last edited by JerryU; 03-25-2020 at 06:58 PM.
Old 03-25-2020, 08:39 PM
  #75  
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Thanks for sharing so we all can look at ours before it gets too bad.
Old 03-25-2020, 08:44 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by UnhandledException
This is what I was saying in the other thread in regards to explaining of why this car requires post delivery wing installation which itself requires removal of bumper and drilling of holes....

The reason is simple because its cheap and corners are cut to make it affordable.

When C8 is compared to 911, people always omit what they want. They need to compare not only the lap times but the full package.
You're right, we should mention Porsche GT4 cracked strut towers and tranny issues, IMS bearing fiasco, etc. Clearly this one screw is a sign Porsche/VW is much higher quality than GM! /s

Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; 03-25-2020 at 08:45 PM.
Old 03-26-2020, 07:47 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by 1-2-b-67L89
I just checked ours and we have approximately 1/4” clearance both sides.
looked at upper screw so my earlier post is incorrect. With door fully open you hardly see the screw in question. Drivers door has approximately 1/8” clearance and passenger side more like 3/16. Both side show screw end just protruding and nothing to the extent shown that caused damage.​​​​​​.
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Old 03-26-2020, 10:06 PM
  #78  
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I'm sure when they get back to work, having experienced a 20% pay cut, they'll do a much better job.
Old 03-26-2020, 10:25 PM
  #79  
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Default Getting to be a launch disaster quickly

The curses just keep coming for this car. Late to launch, strike, virus, and now further unhappy workers to build them. Was so excited about this car two years ago. Sold my 2019 GS for this car. Placed my order in July into workbench but had order in for 18 months prior w dealer in his first folder. Was two weeks from build and now who knows? Be safe all!

Last edited by faninc; 03-26-2020 at 10:27 PM.
Old 03-27-2020, 10:00 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by jagamajajaran
VIN 50 here...clearance is good on mine.
Originally Posted by JerryU
Might agree but some others have said their car had a shorter screw, which is all that's needed.
Originally Posted by burtonbl103
i looked at mine the screw does not look as long
Originally Posted by tcfake613
I have no issues with clearance on that screw. At least 1/4" clearance. Also, my panel gaps are relatively tight and consistent throughout the entire car. VIN #1925 for reference.
Originally Posted by 1-2-b-67L89
looked at upper screw so my earlier post is incorrect. With door fully open you hardly see the screw in question. Drivers door has approximately 1/8” clearance and passenger side more like 3/16. Both side show screw end just protruding and nothing to the extent shown that caused damage.​​​​​​.
Originally Posted by 1-2-b-67L89
I just checked ours and we have approximately 1/4” clearance both sides.
I just took at the drivers side door and up to now thought we were only dealing with one screw per door. Found out for myself there are TWO screws per door. So to be clear are we all measuring the same screw? Here is what I found that agrees with everyone but is dependent on which screw gap is estimated. The “upper screw” comment mentioned above makes sense. I measured a ~ 1/4” gap for that one. The bottom screw measured ~1/8” or less. And these measurement were at the closest the screws were to hitting the door panel, approx half way in the travel full open and the half way open position. They both appear to be the same length screw!

Could it be that we are talking about a screw used in both locations that is okay for the top position but too long for the bottom? A shorter screw for both locations would resolve the issue, and stocking correctly two different length screws isn’t efficient and easily grabbed from the wrong part bin at that station.





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