Which year C7 Z06 is the better buy?
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Now thats what Im talking about... I love those little things that you don't need but always want to have when you miss out and buy a first or second year model of a car. Down the road they always change little things like that.
#23
Pro
My 17 Z06 throw a P0106 code with just a BMS air filter change doing a WOT entering the highway . Put the stock filter back in cleared the code and all is well .
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Z0HS1CK (08-17-2018)
#24
then again not sure why anyone would do a front cat delete and not just get long tubes lol. But that's another story for another time.
#25
I have a 2017 with BMS Filter, 3" BBE X-pipe, and 3" Magnaflow Exhaust. Mods have been on for a while and never had a check engine light. I do have a TM Throttle Body waiting to go on and don't expect any issues since many guys on this forum have had no issues with the basic stuff setting off CEL's on the 2017+'s.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
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tt350z (08-21-2018)
#26
Team Owner
Did you have the dealer do the TSB for this issue on your car? Mine was done and I have a Halltech installed and no issues.
#27
Team Owner
I have a 2017 with BMS Filter, 3" BBE X-pipe, and 3" Magnaflow Exhaust. Mods have been on for a while and never had a check engine light. I do have a TM Throttle Body waiting to go on and don't expect any issues since many guys on this forum have had no issues with the basic stuff setting off CEL's on the 2017+'s.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
#28
Drifting
I have a 2017 with BMS Filter, 3" BBE X-pipe, and 3" Magnaflow Exhaust. Mods have been on for a while and never had a check engine light. I do have a TM Throttle Body waiting to go on and don't expect any issues since many guys on this forum have had no issues with the basic stuff setting off CEL's on the 2017+'s.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
I'd go for a new 2019 personally. If you you check the high volume dealers it's possible to custom order a 2019 1LZ Z06 for around $70.5k (Plus taxes & fee's) or a 2lz for a couple grand more as I did back in 2017. You may even be able to find a better deal now that they are reaching the end of product cycle and sales have slowed considerably.
if you can find a leftover “new” ‘17 z, they are good deals. I got one yest, 1lz m7 yellow with pdr and carbon ceramic package for $73k plus tax. Watch out for the financing rates right now - GM sux!
Last edited by Parcival; 08-17-2018 at 09:24 PM.
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tt350z (08-21-2018)
#29
i dont think there is any reason for the OP to get a 16... there are plenty of left over +17's that can be bought at low prices, and those will be new, and thus get better interest rates than a used 2016 would.
in the end, the monthly payments on the 2 apples to apples trim levels should be the same once the new car lower interest rate is also factored in to the real cost of the purchase.
in the end, the monthly payments on the 2 apples to apples trim levels should be the same once the new car lower interest rate is also factored in to the real cost of the purchase.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-18-2018 at 12:23 AM.
#30
It was also cold that night wasn't it?
I too would like to know if you got the reflash from GM or not, and if you have NOT gotten it, please get it, and then throw the bms back in, and see if you can still throw the code on cold nights... youll know if it happens by the time you get to 155, if it hasn't happened by then, you're safe. Does not hurt the car at all when the code throws.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-17-2018 at 11:50 PM.
#31
I would get the '16 and if you track the car, you can add the secondary radiator for basically pennies. If you don't track the car, you can get whatever year and all of them will be just as good.
If you get the '17, be prepared to see a check engine light with ANY mod you do. You can look at your intake and a check engine light will pop up lol. That's how sensitive the 17+ are.
These cars are fine on the street.
If you get the '17, be prepared to see a check engine light with ANY mod you do. You can look at your intake and a check engine light will pop up lol. That's how sensitive the 17+ are.
These cars are fine on the street.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-18-2018 at 12:22 AM.
#32
Racer
I'll take a loaded 16 (front camera's, etc), 3LZ, comp seats, Z07 with low miles over a 1LZ 18/19 any day.. If you're worried about heat, get the manual since they don't tend to overheat like the auto's do. I'm done with new cars, it's time to let the other guy eat the deprecation. But, try to find a very low mileage and if it's a CPO, that would be the way to go.
Btw, here's a 2016 M7 that ran a 7:13 at the ring. What overheating??!
Btw, here's a 2016 M7 that ran a 7:13 at the ring. What overheating??!
#33
I'll take a loaded 16 (front camera's, etc), 3LZ, comp seats, Z07 with low miles over a 1LZ 18/19 any day.. If you're worried about heat, get the manual since they don't tend to overheat like the auto's do. I'm done with new cars, it's time to let the other guy eat the deprecation. But, try to find a very low mileage and if it's a CPO, that would be the way to go.
Btw, here's a 2016 M7 that ran a 7:13 at the ring. What overheating??!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8PbFRVEimg&t=204s
Btw, here's a 2016 M7 that ran a 7:13 at the ring. What overheating??!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8PbFRVEimg&t=204s
People have been getting over 25g off sticker on 17's left and right.
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SoCalFinest (08-18-2018)
#34
Racer
And with that being said, there is nothing wrong with a 1LZ or 2LZ since they're pretty loaded as it is. In Southern Cal, 10% -14% was like the max off. Anything more did not exist.
I was close to getting a new 2017 1LZ with Z07 and comp seats. It was just too much after taxes. Glad I waited to get a loaded CPO with low miles.
I was close to getting a new 2017 1LZ with Z07 and comp seats. It was just too much after taxes. Glad I waited to get a loaded CPO with low miles.
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Mikec7z (08-18-2018)
#35
I am in Sacramento myself. None of dealers in CA could get close to the pricing I got back east when I was looking. Boardwalk Chevy in the Bay area offered 5% off a custom order which was less than half I what I got from dealers back east.
It doesn't really matter where you live with a custom order though. For $500 you can get courtesy delivery to most dealers.
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Mikec7z (08-18-2018)
#36
auto trader and cars dot com do not show the real discounts dealers have on their cars. Go to dealers websites. https://www.dealerrater.com/reviews/Chevrolet/ has every dealer in the usa, just start browsing every chevy store in low populated areas like NC and TN, and sooner or later you will find a car like you want it.
Use cars dot com or autotrader to FIND the cars that have the options you want, (i think cars dot com has a better search feature to narrow things down) And once that is completed, then go to the actual dealer's website and check their pricing.
Getting a car shipped to cali is not a big deal. There is a thread about this happening recently where the OP got over 30 grand off on a 17....
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-2017-z06.html
Use cars dot com or autotrader to FIND the cars that have the options you want, (i think cars dot com has a better search feature to narrow things down) And once that is completed, then go to the actual dealer's website and check their pricing.
Getting a car shipped to cali is not a big deal. There is a thread about this happening recently where the OP got over 30 grand off on a 17....
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-2017-z06.html
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-18-2018 at 01:15 AM.
#37
Team Owner
You buy a Corvette for performance. The 1lz offers the most power to weight, the most bang for the buck and the least loss at resale. .
#38
Melting Slicks
You don’t need z07 unless you want to look fly at cars and coffee the iron brakes work just as good and for real track use you need the AP brakes anyways since the carbons cost too much. Other than that the difference is just a stiffer set of springs and swaybar links.
#39
Racer
You don’t need z07 unless you want to look fly at cars and coffee the iron brakes work just as good and for real track use you need the AP brakes anyways since the carbons cost too much. Other than that the difference is just a stiffer set of springs and swaybar links.
All it matters is get what you want, need and most importantly what you can comfortably afford. My advice to the OP, just get what you want whether it's a 1LZ, Z07 or even a base Stingray. Cuz at the end of the day, you will be the one eating the cost because of regrets
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nist7 (08-28-2018)
#40
I am going to test that theory come fall weather. Of course doing it as responsibly as i can lol.
So far no codes for 500 miles since i installed the last piece of the big 3 mods. And i have gone WOT multiple times already but this is summer time so i guess that shouldn't count right?
When the weather hits around 50 degrees, any code i should get, i would get at that time correct?
We shall see. But i like my chances since there have been more luck with the 15-16 cars vs the 17+ cars.