acz06

That's why you just dont bolt on a procharger.. I did cnc heads and cam 1st.. cai.. pulley.. headers and tune with stock blower.. car was great.. little blower just couldnt keep up after 5500rpm.. only made 10 pounds.. 680 to wheels.. fun street car. So now I did procharger.. port injection and all that.. probably will pull nar north of 7200 rpm for more boost.. everybody's dyno graph falls off at like 6500.. people dont do them right.. I bet my car hangs and beats some of these f1x buulds.. I went f1a94.. blower is just getting warmed up at 1000 to wheels.. just my opinion

C5-VERT

F1A-94 is a great choice. I was originally going F1X until I did my homework and decided F1A. Mostly b/c I am wanting to stay at most around 1000 wheel (with heads/cam), but 800 wheel is my initial target on E85. I wanted to keep as much streetability as possible keeping some power down low. F1A to 94 isn't much difference just 100 horse or so. Both are capable of well over 1000+ wheel with supporting mods.

And you are smart doing heads/cam first. You are only as good as your valvetrain and bottom end. I may just do a cam swap, upgraded to Katechs AFM delete, C5-R chain, DOD delete, myself. Thinking of putting a lift in just tired of doing that kind of work on jackstands. My last big build I did a 388 all-bore lower and did heads/cam install (yella terra rockers, titanium retainers, dual valve springs). I had some issues with head gaskets but other than that it was a solid build ended up with a progressive 150 shot on it. MT E/T streets with skinnies it was fun to track. My bounds run out when it comes to tuning. I am good up to that point....

acz06

Cant go wrong with f1a.. probably a better street blower too with more a mid range hit than the 94.. u know your stuff and keep killing it!.. the mod life is so addictive..lol.. I am trying to figure out my next step.. or..if I should just build another car..lol..

ajrothm

I've been on both sides of this fence...so I can contribute opinions to both....

As for the OPs question, most of the Procharger swapped cars I see locally that are still running stock torque converters, are lucky to run under 10.40s...and that's with them making 700+ rwhp.... The cars just don't leave well with the procharger and stock converter, especially if its a larger procharger like a F1R, A94 or X, and they are not pullied down to get into their efficiency range...

A stock motor Procharger car however, will beat the pants off of a stock blower/bolt on car on a highway roll, 1/2 mile and especially 1 mile, IF you can keep the belt on it and from slipping. The stock blower is the air flow bottle neck, even with ported/heads/cam....

If you want to go the quickest at the track with relatively low initial investment, and keeping the stock converter, the stock blower or 2.3, 2.6, 2.9l is the way to go....It'll go quicker easier, with much less affect of driveability. However, if you are willing to change the torque converter, live with the driveability downsides, you do have more potential with the procharger for quicker ETs and certainly more MPH...

Most of the time though, people want to throw the procharger on it, a cam in it for noise, then get those big dyno numbers....Then they get drug by a bolt on, stock blower car at the track....and sometimes even out mph'd.... believe it or not.


I can't tell you have many full bolt on/meth/e85 cars I've seen at the track running .2-.3 quicker and 1-2 mph faster then a F1A, F1R car at the track.... Then the weekend comes and I see that same race happen on the highway and the bolt on car gets raped by 150 mph....

I'd say for most of the general public, a bolt on or head/cam car is a better all around combo, more reliable, less noise and still quick at the track....but after 750 rwhp or so, I'd go procharger all the way.


For dyno numbers, highway rolls and 1/2 mile+ racing, procharger is the way to go.....and then finally if you want the 1/4 mile monster, you do have to go back to a procharger with the FULL $30-40k build...and then be ready to fix broken stuff all the time. Going fast ain't easy....or cheap.

C5-VERT

You damn skippy it ain't cheap lol . I just found out the hard way not realizing how much it took to get extra fueling instead of relying on meth. That was my kicker. I got deeper into it after I got the alky kit and realized I wanted something more solid, so I chose port injection. That's where the $$ truly hit me and more importantly complexity. I am hoping Tim @ ProSpeed can help me get his kit dialed it properly.

It's nice getting all this info up on forums b/c it certainly would have helped me up front before I took the $10k PC plunge. Then realizing the complexity of getting past 800 wheel. Appreciate this input I absolutely think you are spot on with all your points. I am an M7 so don't quite have the same issues as an A8 but I do have them on that side of the fence as you well know. Sure it won't be long before I will need a triple disk setup. At least I can use that to shave some weight off the flywheel. I could really tell a difference on my last dual clutch setup. But there's another 2k easy in a clutch so it's no joke how fast $30k can be spent. Then as you said hit the track and get beat by a stock supercharger or at least not winning by what you expect...

CFHay

Sounds like Mightymouse needs to release that turbo kit lol

acz06

I have an m7 also.. and believe me.. the stock set up was sweet.. car hit hard and still hurt some feelings.. I have an old dyno graph I'll c if I can post.. comparing 1.7 and f1a94.. this wasn't the final graph.m just a 1st pull.. car will b done next week.. maybe I'll post the port injection e85 one hopefully next week

acz06

David4359

David4359

"BoneStock"

That's an odd way to spell turbo

3 Z06ZR1

Here is a lot less money more average TQ more average power and more fun to drive!

C5-VERT

David4359

David4359

"BoneStock"

I was just busting your ***** haha. Saying a procharger isn't the only way to go fast

Innovate

Definitely an informative thread, I may go C7Z in a year or two. A8 as well, I may just go FBO/pullied and call it a day. Swapping a PC on and then spending $10k+ on HC, exhaust, and a fuel system is something I am not interested in doing lol.

As for the Procharger, someone in the thread said it helps top end-wise. As in where the 1.7 dies off, this keeps pulling like crazy until 7k+? I love the pull of my HCIE C6Z in the top end of the Rev range.

acz06

Yes.. that was me.. 1.7 only made 10 pounds at 5500.. was out of steam the f1a94 is a monster.. no comparison.. but both set ups were great.. I may redline at like 7400 to make more boost.. car is being put together. We will see what they do with the tune.. pulley combos and all that..

"BoneStock"

Man reading threads like this make me wonder if im making a mistake. My car is bolt on 650whp and i have a whipple port injection set up coming. I dont want to be dealing with all kinds of issues and im half tempted to sell it. It would be easier just bolting on a magnuson 2300 and calling it a day at 680-700whp and not have any issues. Decisions decisions.

BooSSted

Youre not making a mistake depending on your goals. If its just 680-700 you can get that off the stock set up. I think most ppl here are just saying in short if you dont plan on making 900+whp on a PC you may be slower than a bolt on Z. So validating the expense is questionable, depending on the purpose of the car.
My car is still a work in progress but I went PC knowing a bolt on car could be within .1 - .4 of my set up, but also wanted a car that could do well on longer pulls and rolls. A all around car.