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Already posted in my thread no reason for YOU to have your panties in a wad!
What is highly suspect is YOUR dyno results showing your 650 rwtq with ONLY 595 rwhp
from upper pulley / Halltech/ Headers?
Why the low rwhp but too high of rwtq reading?
The differences between yours and Gasser's numbers have to do with how the power increase is distributed across the rpm band. Yours is only showing a 10 to 15 horsepower increase across most of the band, and the 40 horsepower increase only comes into play around 6400 rpm. Having most of the increase at 6400 rpm is of limited use, because once you reach that rpm, it's time to shift, and then you drop back into the lower part of the band where the power increase is much lower.
That's why peak horsepower numbers are of limited use when estimating actual performance. It's much more useful to know the average horsepower across a broader rpm spread, say from 4000 to 6400 rpm, since that's the maximum horsepower band the car can actually operate in, given the spacing between the gear ratios in our transmissions.
Which would actually provide more motive force to the car? Your 595 torque/650 hp, or Gasser's 673 torque/550 horsepower? Hard to say, without having more information on the shape of both power curves. Might be a wash, might not.
$5500 blower and tune DIY! Still with the stock lower.
I purpose built for no meth and to be pump gas only.
I'm going 3500 miles and am willing to give a little power to go with no meth. I'm very happy to have Mustang Dyno 673/633 numbers. On safe tune with pump gas. Very close to ZR1 numbers!
I too am looking for pump gas and no meth bs or e85
I have no.idea where to start .... I believe possibly the aux cooler and a better rad for cooling ?.
Why go from a 1.7 to the 2300? Why not just get the maggy 2650?
the 2300 is in every way better than the 1.7 . Im not looking for a max effort build as i said . Pump gas , no meth bs or e85 , im not modifyimg the fuel system or ding cam lifters trunions blah blah blah . And the 2300 is half price . I want stock drivability, don't want to modify the valve covers for coils. I've had modded cars always more more more never runs right always something. I was a simple bolt on charger , headers , cia and tune
the 2300 is in every way better than the 1.7 . Im not looking for a max effort build as i said . Pump gas , no meth bs or e85 , im not modifyimg the fuel system or ding cam lifters trunions blah blah blah . And the 2300 is half price . I want stock drivability, don't want to modify the valve covers for coils. I've had modded cars always more more more never runs right always something. I was a simple bolt on charger , headers , cia and tune
considering the weak lifter springs associated with the dod you may just want to stay stock. finding a 2300 is half the battle and wanting power and doing not half way is a sure way to find out what breaks first
considering the weak lifter springs associated with the dod you may just want to stay stock. finding a 2300 is half the battle and wanting power and doing not half way is a sure way to find out what breaks first
ok however I'll consider many builds that have had the 2300 and 2650 and have had zero issue with a weak lifter spring . Cars with alot of miles logged as well . I mean by that I kean no disrespect but cmon my guy . I had a 2007 f350 6.0 powerstroke too supposedly so shitty . It was unstoppable and i never had a single issue with it . I don't beat on my vehicles ever , I don't drag my vehicles ever I do some spirited driving and maybe some highway pulls vs other cars .
the 2300 is in every way better than the 1.7 . Im not looking for a max effort build as i said . Pump gas , no meth bs or e85 , im not modifyimg the fuel system or ding cam lifters trunions blah blah blah . And the 2300 is half price . I want stock drivability, don't want to modify the valve covers for coils. I've had modded cars always more more more never runs right always something. I was a simple bolt on charger , headers , cia and tune
I thought they stop selling 2300 for the z06?
Last edited by bama08vette; 08-16-2023 at 06:39 PM.
I was torn between porting the stock blower and a 2650, then got a good deal on a 2300 so went with it. I am fbo, cam, 80mm pulley, 15% overdrive on crank, and am at 750rwhp on 93. I could be closer to 800rwhp with a different pulley, but didn’t want to generate too much heat. I also added the lid from a camaro. With a little trimming of the cowl, it makes the blower look much better.
I was torn between porting the stock blower and a 2650, then got a good deal on a 2300 so went with it. I am fbo, cam, 80mm pulley, 15% overdrive on crank, and am at 750rwhp on 93. I could be closer to 800rwhp with a different pulley, but didn’t want to generate too much heat. I also added the lid from a camaro. With a little trimming of the cowl, it makes the blower look much better.
I’ll add my .02. I too am anti meth anti E and definitely wanted more. My 18 Z has long tube catless headers, a 5 inch cai, innovators west 18% lower pulley, dedicated Motorsport heat exchanger, and a 3 gallon ice tank with a conservative tune. I have zero clue what it dyno’d and don’t care but the car is a beast but still not enough for me. I ordered a 2650 which should’ve been here a month ago but that’s a story for another day 😡😡😡 (shop going through bk so I just might be screwed). Aside from that fiasco I was going to buy a nw 103 mm tb and dsx low side (both very simple and reliable for dd applications) and I’m thinking that would’ve had me around 700-750 rwhp without meth or e. The blower is way more efficient and I feel a smarter move vs the 2300. If you can swing it I’d say opt for the 2650.
i find it interesting that in all this banter, ain't nobody posted IATs or boost curves to accompany their dyno comparisons. and after i started looking into it forever ago, i can't understand the point of spraying meth into the intake tube of a PD car... as in pre-compression. the only way i saw would be worthwhile would be to rig up a direct-port or spray bar setup inside the blower plenum - otherwise, you're cooling the air down just to heat it up again, which is an inefficient use of meth.
even then: DON'T spray water mixes (washer fluid being the most prominent form) into the lobes; that's asking for problems if it don't completely atomize & evaporate before going through. then you end up chewing the coating on your rotors & reducing the blower efficiency. for that reason, straight meth is the only suggestion IF you do spray pre-rotor.
I’ll add my .02. I too am anti meth anti E and definitely wanted more. My 18 Z has long tube catless headers, a 5 inch cai, innovators west 18% lower pulley, dedicated Motorsport heat exchanger, and a 3 gallon ice tank with a conservative tune. I have zero clue what it dyno’d and don’t care but the car is a beast but still not enough for me. I ordered a 2650 which should’ve been here a month ago but that’s a story for another day 😡😡😡 (shop going through bk so I just might be screwed). Aside from that fiasco I was going to buy a nw 103 mm tb and dsx low side (both very simple and reliable for dd applications) and I’m thinking that would’ve had me around 700-750 rwhp without meth or e. The blower is way more efficient and I feel a smarter move vs the 2300. If you can swing it I’d say opt for the 2650.
there's a local guy w dsx low side and he said professional install and his leaks at least yearly. That has me on fence w that .... 2650 is 12g vs 2300 5g huge difference and zero mods required to bolt on . That's what I like about the 2300 and I'm not looking for max effort w the 2300 just more than what car has now ... and more efficient wo huge ait and heat issues
i find it interesting that in all this banter, ain't nobody posted IATs or boost curves to accompany their dyno comparisons. and after i started looking into it forever ago, i can't understand the point of spraying meth into the intake tube of a PD car... as in pre-compression. the only way i saw would be worthwhile would be to rig up a direct-port or spray bar setup inside the blower plenum - otherwise, you're cooling the air down just to heat it up again, which is an inefficient use of meth.
even then: DON'T spray water mixes (washer fluid being the most prominent form) into the lobes; that's asking for problems if it don't completely atomize & evaporate before going through. then you end up chewing the coating on your rotors & reducing the blower efficiency. for that reason, straight meth is the only suggestion IF you do spray pre-rotor.
I understand your logic for saying don't spray coolant through the PD supercharger.
However many have sprayed coolant through PD superchargers for years without any detrimental effects.
Point is its a personal preference as to how comfortable one is doing so with their setup.
If done properly it can be done safely with minimal risk.
As you stated spraying through the PD supercharger will increase the erosion of the rotor coating.
However that coating is not supercritical to the performance of the supercharger.
yeah, i know the sky won't fall... it simply loses a lot of the meth's cooling efficiency while also subjecting the blower to additional wear potential. the wear is more pronounced on twin screws (where lobe tolerances are tighter) than roots units, but i've seen a number of both styles worn down with blue stains on the bare metal where coating used to be, which usually only results in reduced efficiency of the supercharger (vs catastrophic failure). so long as you ensure complete atomization & evaporation of the meth (easiest with fine nozzles and pure methanol), then it usually don't come to physical damage... but still leaves point #1.
i also remember reading a conversation with a dupont engineer who worked on the eaton blower lobe coatings and confirmed the possibility of point #2, which supported the conversations i'd had with magnuson as to why they always recommended against meth. again - not saying you're wrong or it can't be done... only that there're better ways to do it.
unfortunately, those methods are much more expensive. the most ideal is a direct-port setup (for obvious reasons), but the runner-up that i almost pulled the trigger on was rigging up spray bars inside my plenum using a spacer plate. mine's a downward discharge TVS as opposed to y'all's top discharge style, though, so i ain't looked into how the mechanics of yours would work. mine would've simply sandwiched a plate between the case halves to increase internal plenum volume & also provide room to put rails over the intake ports... similar to this, except internally & thinner (this pic ain't my car but from another guy who tried something similar).
another benefit of a 2300 over a 1740 is that since you move the same amount of air with fewer rpms, the bigger blower needs a bigger pulley - and that means more belt wrap contact area & less potential for slip
This is the only place I've been able to find still listing them for sale. I don't know if this is still available or just an old page. I've been debating a 2300 (lower price, easier install) vs a 2650 (better cooling, better driveability) for a year now. I'm comfortable installing a 2300 myself, but I think the 2650 requires mods to the fuel line, which is not something I'm OK doing.
04-14-2018, 05:32 AM
