When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I picked up a lower pulley and a few mods to try out and I have searched high and low for a thread that detailed the install or at least gave me some guidance and could not find one anywhere so I made one.
This job is gravy compared to a C6 car let me tell you, once you have a general road map
Here are the two links for the tools special tools needed.
1. Support the car of course. I used a set of Race Ramps which made the height perfect.
2. Start by removing the radiator Air Duct, it is held on with 4 - 7mm screws.
3. Completely remove the intake and set it to the side.
4. Next move to under the car and remove the 4 sway bar bolts and let the sway bar sag down out of the way.
5. Remove the 18 mm Tie Rod nut and tap the ends out of the spindles.
6. Remove both drive belts. The inner / AC belt is a little tricky, the tensioner for it is the little odd looking cylinder /shock. It is a 50 torx and works like any other tensioner.
7. Remove the electrical connectors attached to the rack. The small top connector stays attached, no need to remove.
8. Remove the 2 Steering Rack bolts that attach the rack to the sub frame.
9. The hood struts are attached to the sway bar brackets. You need to remove the passenger side hood strut where it attaches at the hood.
10.Then completely remove the bracket from the frame and set it off to the side. This will give you the clearance needed to slide the rack over to access the crank pulley. The hood will stay up with only one strut.
11. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the motor mounts down. Place a jack on the seem where the bell housing and oil pan meet. I use 2 hockey pucks but you could also use a small piece of wood etc.. You will need to raise the motor just a little bit to help you removal / installer tool clear the rack.
10. You can now remove the crank pulley. Put it back together the same way it was removed. Total job time is around 2.5 hours.
Last edited by cheet_code; 02-11-2018 at 06:34 PM.
This is one of the funniest posts I have seen here!!
Glad I could amuse you, I thought it was a legitimate question. I have been told that bolt on stuff does NOT void the factory warranty, only if you have it tuned. I was on the fence about getting an upper or lower pulley. Again, DAVE sorry if it was such a stupid question.
Glad I could amuse you, I thought it was a legitimate question. I have been told that bolt on stuff does NOT void the factory warranty, only if you have it tuned. I was on the fence about getting an upper or lower pulley. Again, DAVE sorry if it was such a stupid question.
No Problem! Everybody has to learn about this stuff! Short answer is ANY MODIFICATION THAT YOU MAKE THAT CAUSES A FAILURE OF A WARRANTED PART IS ON YOU PERIOD END OF STORY.
Glad I could amuse you, I thought it was a legitimate question. I have been told that bolt on stuff does NOT void the factory warranty, only if you have it tuned. I was on the fence about getting an upper or lower pulley. Again, DAVE sorry if it was such a stupid question.
I'm thinking upper or lower pulley and your out... Exhaust or Intake seems to be about it.
Does GM still use the C6 type yoke on the A8 transmission? I ask because I used a 2 1/4" open wrench to hold the engine while removing the front harmonic dampener.
Does GM still use the C6 type yoke on the A8 transmission? I ask because I used a 2 1/4" open wrench to hold the engine while removing the front harmonic dampener.
A8 autos
Does GM use the same prop shaft hub clamp on the new A8's that is used on the A6's? I ask bc soon I will be replacing the stock dampener with an IW 18% dampener and of course I need to prevent the engine from turning while removing the dampener bolt. On my C6 - I used a 2 1/4" open wrench on the hub clamp and it worked like a charm.
Here is a few tips I fought. I couldn't figure out what kind of puller to use. You use a Chrysler puller, and you have to put it on the middle of the hub, I had to jerry rig a spacer for the center, there are tabs that it has to grab. See the pic. Find those tabs with the puller and go slow, it can be done. Despite what I thought.
I had to use a metal bar sitting on top the power steering pump motor, sitting in the hub, to block off the motor from moving.
First off Thanks for the write up. Came in handy this weekend. I found it very easy to do and I actually pulled the rack from the car and it made it easier and I did not have to jack the motor at all. All that I needed to do extra was support the abs box and remove the bracket that holds it up (remove two bolts and loosen 2 nuts) Removed the one bolt at the steering shaft, and remove one end of each sway bar end link to remove the sway bar and remove the idler pulley closest to where you pull the bolt out of the steering shaft and I had the rack out of my way while doing the balancer/pulley swap
01-07-2016, 06:07 PM
C7 Z06 lower crank pulley removal
Everybody has to learn about this stuff!
Short answer is ANY MODIFICATION THAT YOU MAKE THAT CAUSES A FAILURE OF A WARRANTED PART IS ON YOU PERIOD END OF STORY.
