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A8 autos
Does GM use the same prop shaft hub clamp on the new A8's that is used on the A6's? I ask bc soon I will be replacing the stock dampener with an IW 18% dampener and of course I need to prevent the engine from turning while removing the dampener bolt. On my C6 - I used a 2 1/4" open wrench on the hub clamp and it worked like a charm.
Update: The propeller shaft hub clamp is 2 1/4" - just like on the C6. So with that said - you can use an open wrench to hold the engine as you remove the dampener bolt.
Thank you for the write up with pictures, helped a good deal. You must be a master mechanic to do this in 2.5 hours, I think the book calls for 6. Here is my experience that will hopefully help save time for someone doing the same job in the future.
Some notes:
You must remove the brake cooling ducts mounted on the lower control arms as they obstruct the swaybar from dropping all the way (5 minutes, T10). As mentioned earlier in this thread removing the rack is almost a must do, its a real PITA to get a crank puller on there with it in. For the extra half hour it takes to get the rack out it is worth it. In order to pull the rack you will have to remove both hood strut supports. If you're super lazy or have a bad back its probably a good idea to just pull the hood off too, but not necessary. You will need a way to hold the crank/engine in place when loosening the crank pulley. We had a A8 so we just popped the cover off the bellhousing and fit a large adjustable wrench in there that opened to 2 1/4 to hold the crank in place while loosening the crank pulley bolt. I found that the new overdrive pulley will not clear the lower subframe so I'm going to have to raise the engine a bit to get the new pulley on. About 3-4 hours in at this point but have been taking my time, also the 39 degree temp in the shop makes work slow.
If you have a manual trans put the car in high gear and set the e-brake to lock the crank.
Last edited by ACE51; 01-29-2018 at 11:37 PM.
Reason: your mom
Anybody know which way to turn the the crank bolt to loosen it .
TORQ SPEC:: for
ATI balancer an 15% Lingenfelter pulley to tighten them together?
what are the torq spec to tighten the 100mm pulley?
What are the torq spec to tighten the crank bolt down so it want bank off when i install them .couldnt find an info on here on torq spec on this stuff .I just install headers on the 16z06 easy install I must say for my first time
Thank you for the write up with pictures, helped a good deal. You must be a master mechanic to do this in 2.5 hours, I think the book calls for 6. Here is my experience that will hopefully help save time for someone doing the same job in the future.
Some notes:
You must remove the brake cooling ducts mounted on the lower control arms as they obstruct the swaybar from dropping all the way (5 minutes, T10). As mentioned earlier in this thread removing the rack is almost a must do, its a real PITA to get a crank puller on there with it in. For the extra half hour it takes to get the rack out it is worth it. In order to pull the rack you will have to remove both hood strut supports. If you're super lazy or have a bad back its probably a good idea to just pull the hood off too, but not necessary. You will need a way to hold the crank/engine in place when loosening the crank pulley. We had a A8 so we just popped the cover off the bellhousing and fit a large adjustable wrench in there that opened to 2 1/4 to hold the crank in place while loosening the crank pulley bolt. I found that the new overdrive pulley will not clear the lower subframe so I'm going to have to raise the engine a bit to get the new pulley on. About 3-4 hours in at this point but have been taking my time, also the 39 degree temp in the shop makes work slow.
If you have a manual trans put the car in high gear and set the e-brake to lock the crank.
Glad you liked the write up, I have done several of these now and they always take 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on what else is going on.
I have never had to remove cooling ducts.
Not sure if you read my entire thread though as I already told you the engine needs loosened and bumped a little to clear the new pulley, sorry you missed that in the write up.
The steering rack does NOT need to be pulled, it will just ad time and scratched **** to the job.
Also no need to pop the cover off the bell housing when you can just put a wrench on the driveshaft....lol
I can see why it took you a few hours longer. Hope it worked out for you.
Last edited by cheet_code; 01-30-2018 at 06:31 AM.
Thank you for the write up with pictures, helped a good deal. You must be a master mechanic to do this in 2.5 hours, I think the book calls for 6. Here is my experience that will hopefully help save time for someone doing the same job in the future.
Some notes:
You must remove the brake cooling ducts mounted on the lower control arms as they obstruct the swaybar from dropping all the way (5 minutes, T10). As mentioned earlier in this thread removing the rack is almost a must do, its a real PITA to get a crank puller on there with it in. For the extra half hour it takes to get the rack out it is worth it. In order to pull the rack you will have to remove both hood strut supports. If you're super lazy or have a bad back its probably a good idea to just pull the hood off too, but not necessary. You will need a way to hold the crank/engine in place when loosening the crank pulley. We had a A8 so we just popped the cover off the bellhousing and fit a large adjustable wrench in there that opened to 2 1/4 to hold the crank in place while loosening the crank pulley bolt. I found that the new overdrive pulley will not clear the lower subframe so I'm going to have to raise the engine a bit to get the new pulley on. About 3-4 hours in at this point but have been taking my time, also the 39 degree temp in the shop makes work slow.
If you have a manual trans put the car in high gear and set the e-brake to lock the crank.
crank bolt which way to loosen?
do I need a degree angle with my torq wrench
Don't know how you guys used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt. I borrowed a 250# from Auto Zone but even my young 200# son-in-law couldn't get it to click at the 235# setting. We finally just put a cheater on my break over and tightened it a little more. Should be close but who knows. Can't use a cheater on a torque wrench.
Also I use my 14" pipe wrench to hold the 2 1/4" block. Worked real well and didn't have to buy an expensive 2 1/4" end wrench that will never be used again.
I chose to remove the steering shaft completely. I was in no hurry so it made the job much easier even if it took longer. And to re-install it takes two people!
I installed the IW 9%. Used an Auto Zone Duralast belt #865K8 (8PK2195) for a perfect fit. To loosen the belts you turn counter clockwise as in tightening to loosen.
Now to tune it. My first short WOT resulted in up to 5* kr with the stock timing tables. I shut down early. Don't know how some used the stock tune. I was a little rich too on the wideband.
Check Amazon, just bought one, its most likely cheaper @ $21.18, uses a thrust roller bearing & washer setup. Part number is = 551141. I looked at the damper installer in your link and it does not "look" as well engineer to me as the one I just bought from Amazon.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 02-22-2021 at 09:41 PM.
Check Amazon, just bought one, its most likely cheaper @ $21.18, uses a thrust roller bearing & washer setup. Part number is = 551141. I looked at the damper installer in your link and it does not "look" as well engineer to me as the one I just bought from Amazon.
3mirrors Upgraded Harmonic Balancer Puller 551141 Crank Install Tool Compatible with GM 1997-Up LS1 / LS Engines Crank Pulley Installer
No, not that one, mine has a thrust bearing.
I just went to Amazon and when I went into the items I have bought lately I clicked on my installer and a page popped up which said: page can't be found. So I can't find the installer I purchased on 2/17/21.
So I went searching and found one very close to the one I bought, it has a little rubber end cap you can use to hang it up, mine does not, Mine came with a little three sided file, this one does not have one.
I think the one I found is almost identical to mine so here is the description:
Z Whip LS LT Pro Series Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool Crank Pulley Install With Thrust Bearing.
Manufacturer: Zyxaxis
Manufacturer Part Number: 99447321 Price: $22.99 (a little more expensive than mine)
Being I can't find my harmonic balancer installer now this one above is what "I" would go with.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 02-23-2021 at 01:09 AM.
Big thanks to everyone on this thread, it gave me the information that I needed to get this done. I made a post with some videos of my install. Going to post a link to my thread to hopefully help others
I too would have liked the torque specs but i just made everything tight, and in my head i know none of those bolts are coming out. I put sometimes a dab, sometimes more than a dab of blue loctite 242 on everything
No, not that one, mine has a thrust bearing.
I just went to Amazon and when I went into the items I have bought lately I clicked on my installer and a page popped up which said: page can't be found. So I can't find the installer I purchased on 2/17/21.
So I went searching and found one very close to the one I bought, it has a little rubber end cap you can use to hang it up, mine does not, Mine came with a little three sided file, this one does not have one.
I think the one I found is almost identical to mine so here is the description:
Z Whip LS LT Pro Series Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool Crank Pulley Install With Thrust Bearing.
Manufacturer: Zyxaxis
Manufacturer Part Number: 99447321 Price: $22.99 (a little more expensive than mine)
Being I can't find my harmonic balancer installer now this one above is what "I" would go with.
Thank you for your time and information.
Here is a link
06-14-2016, 09:11 AM
