ZO6 Trailer Transport
#21
It means you cross the straps from side to side. So the strap to the front driver's side jacking point straps to the passenger side trailer D-ring and vice versa, front and back.
FWIW...I prefer strapping down from a frame or subframe. When doing so, it pulls the car down to the trailer and limits suspension movement while towing. Using wheel straps or similar works fine, but the car will move around on the suspension.
S.
FWIW...I prefer strapping down from a frame or subframe. When doing so, it pulls the car down to the trailer and limits suspension movement while towing. Using wheel straps or similar works fine, but the car will move around on the suspension.
S.
#22
Scraping the splitter.
Just so I understand. You are strapping to the jack point and then pulling the strap under the car to the opposite passenger side and hooking it to a D ring or E track. Is this correct? If so, are you using a racthet type strap under the car? If it is easier I would be happy to give you a call on my dime. Thank you. Gary in Michigan
A little tip is to remove the strap from the ratchet, hook it into the frame, and run it under the car to the front or rear bumper. Pull a slight bit of tension on it and then tape it to the front or rear fascia with racer's/painter's tape. Then pull the car onto the trailer. This will prevent you from having to squeeze down next to the car once it's loaded.
S.
#23
Correct. You cross the straps and make an "X". It prevents the car from moving from side to side when turning. Yes, using a ratchet strap.
A little tip is to remove the strap from the ratchet, hook it into the frame, and run it under the car to the front or rear bumper. Pull a slight bit of tension on it and then tape it to the front or rear fascia with racer's/painter's tape. Then pull the car onto the trailer. This will prevent you from having to squeeze down next to the car once it's loaded.
S.
A little tip is to remove the strap from the ratchet, hook it into the frame, and run it under the car to the front or rear bumper. Pull a slight bit of tension on it and then tape it to the front or rear fascia with racer's/painter's tape. Then pull the car onto the trailer. This will prevent you from having to squeeze down next to the car once it's loaded.
S.
Gary
#24
#25
Race Director
Here's my ZR1 in the process of getting strapped in - I still need to finish stowing the handle of the ratchet on the left:
You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.
I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.
I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
#26
Here's my ZR1 in the process of getting strapped in - I still need to finish stowing the handle of the ratchet on the left:
You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.
I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.
I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
#27
Race Director
BTW - I don't leave the car in gear or put the e-brake on.
I do chock the wheels, and I let the chocks and tie-down straps take the load so the transmission and parking brake aren't stressed when the car rocks around while it rides in the trailer.
I do chock the wheels, and I let the chocks and tie-down straps take the load so the transmission and parking brake aren't stressed when the car rocks around while it rides in the trailer.
#28
No one else has suggested this. Great tip and it makes sense. I will do the same. Thanks again.
#29
Scraping the splitter.
See you at Daytona in April!
S.
#30
I would leave it in gear with the parking brake. No way would trust the strapping 100%. In a emergency stop you would have a 3500 lb missile if something on strap or even the trailer hook break.
Not sure you would have any stress on trans or brakes due to the straps preventing movements.
Its another idea
#31
I am getting ready to haul my '07 C6 for a 1,250 transport and have never done this before. I got some great strap-down tips above so thanks for that! I will be towing it on an open Budget rental car hauler behind a 24 ft budget diesel truck as I am moving out of state. Now that I have a good idea of how to strap it down I am still wondering if there is any practical way of using my car cover for added protection. I worry that it even if I wrap it and strap it to keep it from blowing off the constant movement of the cover may cause 'chaffing' and thereby more harm to the paint than good. I was considering buying a roll of that 'transport-wrap' that the new cars have when they are sent to the dealers. Any tips on this would be appreciated. I just want my black beauty to look the same when she arrives at her now home.
#32
Advanced
I am getting ready to haul my '07 C6 for a 1,250 transport and have never done this before. I got some great strap-down tips above so thanks for that! I will be towing it on an open Budget rental car hauler behind a 24 ft budget diesel truck as I am moving out of state. Now that I have a good idea of how to strap it down I am still wondering if there is any practical way of using my car cover for added protection. I worry that it even if I wrap it and strap it to keep it from blowing off the constant movement of the cover may cause 'chaffing' and thereby more harm to the paint than good. I was considering buying a roll of that 'transport-wrap' that the new cars have when they are sent to the dealers. Any tips on this would be appreciated. I just want my black beauty to look the same when she arrives at her now home.
ED
#33
Former Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2010
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 1,250
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Reverse Logic offers a combo service/trailer Race Ramp, model RLL-80-2. The incline section of the ramp can be flipped over and used as a trailer ramp. The ramps are shipped in two cartons. I could ship the inclines to your starting address and the platforms to your destination. Or you can order the inclines separately without the platforms.
Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
#34
Reverse Logic offers a combo service/trailer Race Ramp, model RLL-80-2. The incline section of the ramp can be flipped over and used as a trailer ramp. The ramps are shipped in two cartons. I could ship the inclines to your starting address and the platforms to your destination. Or you can order the inclines separately without the platforms.
Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
Thanks to all for weighing in on this. I should be okay with loading and unloading as I have some options that will allow me to make this work. I think I'll apply some transport film to critical areas of the car and go from there. Thanks again!
#35
I would leave it in gear with the parking brake. No way would trust the strapping 100%. In a emergency stop you would have a 3500 lb missile if something on strap or even the trailer hook break.
Not sure you would have any stress on trans or brakes due to the straps preventing movements.
Its another idea
Not sure you would have any stress on trans or brakes due to the straps preventing movements.
Its another idea
#37
Great. My center line of the two E tracks I have running from front to back in my trailer is 58" so that should work well for straps to the frame and the E track I hope. Thanks. do you have any idea what the ground clearance of a 2015 Z06 is without the Z07 package? Thanks again.