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Old 02-05-2015, 08:49 AM
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67red
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Originally Posted by Snorman
It means you cross the straps from side to side. So the strap to the front driver's side jacking point straps to the passenger side trailer D-ring and vice versa, front and back.

FWIW...I prefer strapping down from a frame or subframe. When doing so, it pulls the car down to the trailer and limits suspension movement while towing. Using wheel straps or similar works fine, but the car will move around on the suspension.
S.
Just so I understand. You are strapping to the jack point and then pulling the strap under the car to the opposite passenger side and hooking it to a D ring or E track. Is this correct? If so, are you using a racthet type strap under the car? If it is easier I would be happy to give you a call on my dime. Thank you. Gary in Michigan
Old 02-05-2015, 10:22 AM
  #22  
Snorman
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Originally Posted by 67red
Just so I understand. You are strapping to the jack point and then pulling the strap under the car to the opposite passenger side and hooking it to a D ring or E track. Is this correct? If so, are you using a racthet type strap under the car? If it is easier I would be happy to give you a call on my dime. Thank you. Gary in Michigan
Correct. You cross the straps and make an "X". It prevents the car from moving from side to side when turning. Yes, using a ratchet strap.
A little tip is to remove the strap from the ratchet, hook it into the frame, and run it under the car to the front or rear bumper. Pull a slight bit of tension on it and then tape it to the front or rear fascia with racer's/painter's tape. Then pull the car onto the trailer. This will prevent you from having to squeeze down next to the car once it's loaded.
S.
Old 02-05-2015, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Snorman
Correct. You cross the straps and make an "X". It prevents the car from moving from side to side when turning. Yes, using a ratchet strap.
A little tip is to remove the strap from the ratchet, hook it into the frame, and run it under the car to the front or rear bumper. Pull a slight bit of tension on it and then tape it to the front or rear fascia with racer's/painter's tape. Then pull the car onto the trailer. This will prevent you from having to squeeze down next to the car once it's loaded.
S.
Thanks for your help Snorman. You have clearly done this before. I have transported cars before, but never a vette this low to the ground. Thanks again.

Gary
Old 02-05-2015, 01:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Snorman
FWIW...I prefer strapping down from a frame or subframe. When doing so, it pulls the car down to the trailer and limits suspension movement while towing. Using wheel straps or similar works fine, but the car will move around on the suspension.
S.
Old 02-05-2015, 03:34 PM
  #25  
BEZ06
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Here's my ZR1 in the process of getting strapped in - I still need to finish stowing the handle of the ratchet on the left:




You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.

I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
Old 02-06-2015, 07:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
Here's my ZR1 in the process of getting strapped in - I still need to finish stowing the handle of the ratchet on the left:




You can see how the straps cross from side-to-side to keep the car from sliding sideways in the trailer.

I agree with others who like to attach their tie-down straps to the frame. With the T-hooks I put into the frame, the ratchets pull the car down slightly on the suspension and it doesn't bounce around while being towed.
.
Thank you very much for taking the time to send the picture of your awesome ZR1. I ordered some of the T-hooks yesterday. Also talked to the people at the Museum yesterday to see what they see with people that pick up a car there and load it into a trailer. Answers were all over the place so not very helpful. Some back their cars into their trailers. I will take everything I have and I think I should be able to come up with something to tie the car down. I will start with your example. Thanks again for taking the time to help out. Gary in Michigan.
Old 02-06-2015, 09:13 AM
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BTW - I don't leave the car in gear or put the e-brake on.

I do chock the wheels, and I let the chocks and tie-down straps take the load so the transmission and parking brake aren't stressed when the car rocks around while it rides in the trailer.
Old 02-06-2015, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
BTW - I don't leave the car in gear or put the e-brake on.

I do chock the wheels, and I let the chocks and tie-down straps take the load so the transmission and parking brake aren't stressed when the car rocks around while it rides in the trailer.
No one else has suggested this. Great tip and it makes sense. I will do the same. Thanks again.
Old 02-06-2015, 09:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
BTW - I don't leave the car in gear or put the e-brake on.

I do chock the wheels, and I let the chocks and tie-down straps take the load so the transmission and parking brake aren't stressed when the car rocks around while it rides in the trailer.
That's interesting. I do all of these...car in gear, brake set and I chock every tire.
See you at Daytona in April!
S.
Old 02-06-2015, 09:36 AM
  #30  
lawdogg149
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Originally Posted by 67red
No one else has suggested this. Great tip and it makes sense. I will do the same. Thanks again.

I would leave it in gear with the parking brake. No way would trust the strapping 100%. In a emergency stop you would have a 3500 lb missile if something on strap or even the trailer hook break.

Not sure you would have any stress on trans or brakes due to the straps preventing movements.

Its another idea
Old 02-07-2015, 02:12 PM
  #31  
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I am getting ready to haul my '07 C6 for a 1,250 transport and have never done this before. I got some great strap-down tips above so thanks for that! I will be towing it on an open Budget rental car hauler behind a 24 ft budget diesel truck as I am moving out of state. Now that I have a good idea of how to strap it down I am still wondering if there is any practical way of using my car cover for added protection. I worry that it even if I wrap it and strap it to keep it from blowing off the constant movement of the cover may cause 'chaffing' and thereby more harm to the paint than good. I was considering buying a roll of that 'transport-wrap' that the new cars have when they are sent to the dealers. Any tips on this would be appreciated. I just want my black beauty to look the same when she arrives at her now home.
Old 02-08-2015, 10:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ColoradoZ51
I am getting ready to haul my '07 C6 for a 1,250 transport and have never done this before. I got some great strap-down tips above so thanks for that! I will be towing it on an open Budget rental car hauler behind a 24 ft budget diesel truck as I am moving out of state. Now that I have a good idea of how to strap it down I am still wondering if there is any practical way of using my car cover for added protection. I worry that it even if I wrap it and strap it to keep it from blowing off the constant movement of the cover may cause 'chaffing' and thereby more harm to the paint than good. I was considering buying a roll of that 'transport-wrap' that the new cars have when they are sent to the dealers. Any tips on this would be appreciated. I just want my black beauty to look the same when she arrives at her now home.
Whatever you do, do not use a car cover on an open trailer. It will flap and move around no matter how well you tie it down. All that movement will cause marks on your paint. Also most rental car trailers come equipped with over the front tire tie downs and one strap in the rear to keep the car from moving from side to side. Check with your local trailer rental store to see how their trailer is set up. Most likely you won't have to worry about using your own tie down straps. The big problem will be getting your car on and off the trailer. Rental trailers have very steep ramps and you will need some extra length boards to reduce the ramp angle.

ED
Old 02-08-2015, 10:39 AM
  #33  
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Reverse Logic offers a combo service/trailer Race Ramp, model RLL-80-2. The incline section of the ramp can be flipped over and used as a trailer ramp. The ramps are shipped in two cartons. I could ship the inclines to your starting address and the platforms to your destination. Or you can order the inclines separately without the platforms.

Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.

http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831

Originally Posted by E Stumpff
...The big problem will be getting your car on and off the trailer. Rental trailers have very steep ramps and you will need some extra length boards to reduce the ramp angle.

ED
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:19 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
Reverse Logic offers a combo service/trailer Race Ramp, model RLL-80-2. The incline section of the ramp can be flipped over and used as a trailer ramp. The ramps are shipped in two cartons. I could ship the inclines to your starting address and the platforms to your destination. Or you can order the inclines separately without the platforms.

Price is $420 less 10% less $20 factory rebate or $358 net including shipping.

http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831

Thanks to all for weighing in on this. I should be okay with loading and unloading as I have some options that will allow me to make this work. I think I'll apply some transport film to critical areas of the car and go from there. Thanks again!
Old 02-09-2015, 06:51 AM
  #35  
67red
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Originally Posted by lawdogg149
I would leave it in gear with the parking brake. No way would trust the strapping 100%. In a emergency stop you would have a 3500 lb missile if something on strap or even the trailer hook break.

Not sure you would have any stress on trans or brakes due to the straps preventing movements.

Its another idea
I have always left the cars I have hauled in gear with the parking brake on without any problems. Of course most were 60's muscle cars so not sure if that makes a difference. I measured the distance between the E track in my trailer yesterday and would like to compare it to the center of the tires for my Z06 to see how they line up. I have wheel base, overall length, overall width, but I am not sure where to go to find the distance between the center line of the tires. Any ideas? Thanks.
Old 02-09-2015, 08:56 AM
  #36  
bluedevil 1
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I believe the center line on the fronts is 66" and 64" on the rears due to the different offset on the rear wheels
Old 02-09-2015, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bluedevil 1
I believe the center line on the fronts is 66" and 64" on the rears due to the different offset on the rear wheels
Great. My center line of the two E tracks I have running from front to back in my trailer is 58" so that should work well for straps to the frame and the E track I hope. Thanks. do you have any idea what the ground clearance of a 2015 Z06 is without the Z07 package? Thanks again.



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