Fasterproms Z06 Tune/Flex Fuel only results!
01-02-2015, 11:31 PM
#22
I just hope that the people reading this post realize that the bhp of the engines coming out of the factory do not vary that much(50 bhp delta); but the chassis dyno etc pulls do.
I see too many people on this forum that look at the rwhp number and then try and back into the bhp using 15%(or whatever)driveline loss to obtain some fictional horsepower at the crank.
The 650 bhp is SAE certified. The 558 or 570 or 585 or 603 rwhp that are showing up from chassis dynos are not SAE certified.
In fact, I've seen chassis dyno pulls on the same car have a 23 rwhp variance on back to back pulls, with no alterations done to the car.
I see too many people on this forum that look at the rwhp number and then try and back into the bhp using 15%(or whatever)driveline loss to obtain some fictional horsepower at the crank.
The 650 bhp is SAE certified. The 558 or 570 or 585 or 603 rwhp that are showing up from chassis dynos are not SAE certified.
In fact, I've seen chassis dyno pulls on the same car have a 23 rwhp variance on back to back pulls, with no alterations done to the car.
So every engine in every car is dynoed and verified to make exactly 650bhp?
01-03-2015, 12:42 AM
#24
I ♥ My Corvette
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01-03-2015, 03:17 AM
#25
Le Mans Master
The reason has already been addressed, the hero dyno runs are made when the car isn't up to operating temperature , there are also a bunch of tricks dyno operators can use to inflate numbers , this is nothing new.
01-03-2015, 10:18 AM
#26
Melting Slicks
the hero dyno runs are made when the car isn't up to operating temperature
01-03-2015, 10:49 AM
#27
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I dont understand...It is not to our benefit say that the car made a high baseline. It would make it more difficult to gain power while tuning and subsequent other mods. I thought it would be neat to share some exceptional results with you guys....Thank you those that know me and to those that don't I have nothing to prove. I am about as transparent as they come and I won't mislead anybody. My father who was in this business always said "if you don't tell a lie you won't get caught in a lie".
I learned a long time ago the more you know the more you know you don't know.
There were no "dyno tricks" the car is in SAE correction and was up to 190deg F. I am the ANTI DYNO FLUFF guy, its merely a tool and the true test is the track. if you like here is the dynos phone number 813-988-3966 www.provenpowertampa.com please call them and ask if I was BSing. I have logged thousands of hours on this dyno and I myself was surprised, there have been many times that I have been disappointed on that dyno as well.
So lets get to some technical data: I rode in one car before ours came in I data logged it and watched the timing and boost. In virtually the same weather the cars had the same timing curve and created the same boost, 24deg and about 11psi. (This is not the case with all blown cars, adjusting the bypass valve on the blower can be worth as much as 2.5psi in some cases but usually about .5psi.) However if the heat soaking was such it would have retarded more timing and thus lowered the power. Also if the weather were cooler the MAF curve would deeper into the load and thus retard timing, guess what lowering the power.
After I opened up the air box and adjusted the bypass valve I took the car out on the street to get some preliminary tuning done before the dyno. It was significantly slower, Why? The MAF was pulling in much more air and my timing curve was at 9deg from 24deg @ WOT and the mixture was much richer, much deeper in the maf curve. I retweaked the timing and fuel curve to get them to where they needed to be and the car was a monster. Also let me note that in 65deg F weather the car was able to boost 2 more psi with the adjusted bypass valve and denser air, it didn't the next day with the hotter weather when we revisited the dyno.
I did four pulls with the car and they were back to back in 2 run hits. I wanted to see what the car would do hot in what I thought was a worst case scenario.
When people start tracking the cars we will see how she lines up with the rest of them. My old CTSV was the fastest manual in the country 11.08 @130 at one point and my old 14'stingray is 3rd fastest manual currently 10.25@140.33.
Thank you
Jeremy Formato
I learned a long time ago the more you know the more you know you don't know.
There were no "dyno tricks" the car is in SAE correction and was up to 190deg F. I am the ANTI DYNO FLUFF guy, its merely a tool and the true test is the track. if you like here is the dynos phone number 813-988-3966 www.provenpowertampa.com please call them and ask if I was BSing. I have logged thousands of hours on this dyno and I myself was surprised, there have been many times that I have been disappointed on that dyno as well.
So lets get to some technical data: I rode in one car before ours came in I data logged it and watched the timing and boost. In virtually the same weather the cars had the same timing curve and created the same boost, 24deg and about 11psi. (This is not the case with all blown cars, adjusting the bypass valve on the blower can be worth as much as 2.5psi in some cases but usually about .5psi.) However if the heat soaking was such it would have retarded more timing and thus lowered the power. Also if the weather were cooler the MAF curve would deeper into the load and thus retard timing, guess what lowering the power.
After I opened up the air box and adjusted the bypass valve I took the car out on the street to get some preliminary tuning done before the dyno. It was significantly slower, Why? The MAF was pulling in much more air and my timing curve was at 9deg from 24deg @ WOT and the mixture was much richer, much deeper in the maf curve. I retweaked the timing and fuel curve to get them to where they needed to be and the car was a monster. Also let me note that in 65deg F weather the car was able to boost 2 more psi with the adjusted bypass valve and denser air, it didn't the next day with the hotter weather when we revisited the dyno.
I did four pulls with the car and they were back to back in 2 run hits. I wanted to see what the car would do hot in what I thought was a worst case scenario.
When people start tracking the cars we will see how she lines up with the rest of them. My old CTSV was the fastest manual in the country 11.08 @130 at one point and my old 14'stingray is 3rd fastest manual currently 10.25@140.33.
Thank you
Jeremy Formato
01-05-2015, 06:33 AM
#28
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I dont understand...It is not to our benefit say that the car made a high baseline. It would make it more difficult to gain power while tuning and subsequent other mods. I thought it would be neat to share some exceptional results with you guys....Thank you those that know me and to those that don't I have nothing to prove. I am about as transparent as they come and I won't mislead anybody. My father who was in this business always said "if you don't tell a lie you won't get caught in a lie".
I learned a long time ago the more you know the more you know you don't know.
There were no "dyno tricks" the car is in SAE correction and was up to 190deg F. I am the ANTI DYNO FLUFF guy, its merely a tool and the true test is the track. if you like here is the dynos phone number 813-988-3966 www.provenpowertampa.com please call them and ask if I was BSing. I have logged thousands of hours on this dyno and I myself was surprised, there have been many times that I have been disappointed on that dyno as well.
So lets get to some technical data: I rode in one car before ours came in I data logged it and watched the timing and boost. In virtually the same weather the cars had the same timing curve and created the same boost, 24deg and about 11psi. (This is not the case with all blown cars, adjusting the bypass valve on the blower can be worth as much as 2.5psi in some cases but usually about .5psi.) However if the heat soaking was such it would have retarded more timing and thus lowered the power. Also if the weather were cooler the MAF curve would deeper into the load and thus retard timing, guess what lowering the power.
After I opened up the air box and adjusted the bypass valve I took the car out on the street to get some preliminary tuning done before the dyno. It was significantly slower, Why? The MAF was pulling in much more air and my timing curve was at 9deg from 24deg @ WOT and the mixture was much richer, much deeper in the maf curve. I retweaked the timing and fuel curve to get them to where they needed to be and the car was a monster. Also let me note that in 65deg F weather the car was able to boost 2 more psi with the adjusted bypass valve and denser air, it didn't the next day with the hotter weather when we revisited the dyno.
I did four pulls with the car and they were back to back in 2 run hits. I wanted to see what the car would do hot in what I thought was a worst case scenario.
When people start tracking the cars we will see how she lines up with the rest of them. My old CTSV was the fastest manual in the country 11.08 @130 at one point and my old 14'stingray is 3rd fastest manual currently 10.25@140.33.
Thank you
Jeremy Formato
I learned a long time ago the more you know the more you know you don't know.
There were no "dyno tricks" the car is in SAE correction and was up to 190deg F. I am the ANTI DYNO FLUFF guy, its merely a tool and the true test is the track. if you like here is the dynos phone number 813-988-3966 www.provenpowertampa.com please call them and ask if I was BSing. I have logged thousands of hours on this dyno and I myself was surprised, there have been many times that I have been disappointed on that dyno as well.
So lets get to some technical data: I rode in one car before ours came in I data logged it and watched the timing and boost. In virtually the same weather the cars had the same timing curve and created the same boost, 24deg and about 11psi. (This is not the case with all blown cars, adjusting the bypass valve on the blower can be worth as much as 2.5psi in some cases but usually about .5psi.) However if the heat soaking was such it would have retarded more timing and thus lowered the power. Also if the weather were cooler the MAF curve would deeper into the load and thus retard timing, guess what lowering the power.
After I opened up the air box and adjusted the bypass valve I took the car out on the street to get some preliminary tuning done before the dyno. It was significantly slower, Why? The MAF was pulling in much more air and my timing curve was at 9deg from 24deg @ WOT and the mixture was much richer, much deeper in the maf curve. I retweaked the timing and fuel curve to get them to where they needed to be and the car was a monster. Also let me note that in 65deg F weather the car was able to boost 2 more psi with the adjusted bypass valve and denser air, it didn't the next day with the hotter weather when we revisited the dyno.
I did four pulls with the car and they were back to back in 2 run hits. I wanted to see what the car would do hot in what I thought was a worst case scenario.
When people start tracking the cars we will see how she lines up with the rest of them. My old CTSV was the fastest manual in the country 11.08 @130 at one point and my old 14'stingray is 3rd fastest manual currently 10.25@140.33.
Thank you
Jeremy Formato
01-05-2015, 07:38 AM
#29
Melting Slicks
The cars are SAE Certitifed to make 650/650 with a extremely low variance - like 1%. So yes, there are no freaks that come off the line. The manufacturing process have extremely tight tolerances. These state of the art manufacturing processes do not allow for much variance.
04-06-2016, 02:27 PM
#33
Instructor
Here's some more food for thought -- from a Chev. Service Manager:
I do not recommend the use of E85. E85 is extremely corrosive and not at all worth the effort. It may be cheap, but it also requires 35% more fuel to make the same amount of power. The other issue is the tuning. Once you tune a new Corvette, all bets are off should there ever be an engine, transmission or differential failure. Even if the tune is put back to stock prior to bringing the car in for service, GM has a lot of hidden info in the software that allows them to see if the vehicle was ever tuned. If it has been tuned then any major engine work would be the responsibility of the owner. GM will automatically request that info before allowing us to perform the warranty job.
Short answer is that I advise against using E85 in all but serious racing applications.
Rich Willhoff
Service & Parts Director
Abel Chevrolet Buick
I do not recommend the use of E85. E85 is extremely corrosive and not at all worth the effort. It may be cheap, but it also requires 35% more fuel to make the same amount of power. The other issue is the tuning. Once you tune a new Corvette, all bets are off should there ever be an engine, transmission or differential failure. Even if the tune is put back to stock prior to bringing the car in for service, GM has a lot of hidden info in the software that allows them to see if the vehicle was ever tuned. If it has been tuned then any major engine work would be the responsibility of the owner. GM will automatically request that info before allowing us to perform the warranty job.
Short answer is that I advise against using E85 in all but serious racing applications.
Rich Willhoff
Service & Parts Director
Abel Chevrolet Buick
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Dan.S (04-06-2016)
04-06-2016, 03:56 PM
#35
Pro
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: Surprise Arizona
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St. Jude Donor '16
Here's some more food for thought -- from a Chev. Service Manager:
I do not recommend the use of E85. E85 is extremely corrosive and not at all worth the effort. It may be cheap, but it also requires 35% more fuel to make the same amount of power. The other issue is the tuning. Once you tune a new Corvette, all bets are off should there ever be an engine, transmission or differential failure. Even if the tune is put back to stock prior to bringing the car in for service, GM has a lot of hidden info in the software that allows them to see if the vehicle was ever tuned. If it has been tuned then any major engine work would be the responsibility of the owner. GM will automatically request that info before allowing us to perform the warranty job.
Short answer is that I advise against using E85 in all but serious racing applications.
Rich Willhoff
Service & Parts Director
Abel Chevrolet Buick
I do not recommend the use of E85. E85 is extremely corrosive and not at all worth the effort. It may be cheap, but it also requires 35% more fuel to make the same amount of power. The other issue is the tuning. Once you tune a new Corvette, all bets are off should there ever be an engine, transmission or differential failure. Even if the tune is put back to stock prior to bringing the car in for service, GM has a lot of hidden info in the software that allows them to see if the vehicle was ever tuned. If it has been tuned then any major engine work would be the responsibility of the owner. GM will automatically request that info before allowing us to perform the warranty job.
Short answer is that I advise against using E85 in all but serious racing applications.
Rich Willhoff
Service & Parts Director
Abel Chevrolet Buick
Last edited by Dan.S; 04-06-2016 at 03:58 PM.
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DRLC5 (04-06-2016)
07-11-2017, 01:41 AM
#36
Heel & Toe
What do you do with the LSA blowers that help the heat soak and how well did it work with this thing?
07-11-2017, 08:23 AM
#37
Safety Car
Not true. Hero runs are made with car up to 180 or so, not so low that the car is running rich. It goes into closed loop at MUCH, MUCH lower temps than that.