When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Shaking and rough idling and struggles to accelerate
What’s up guys , I have a 2017 stingray and recently I’ve done my longtubes. When I did them there was a o2 sensor I had to replace simply because I couldn’t get the oem one out. The car has been running fine for 2 weeks then out of no where she started shaking sounding like it was trying to die. Then it’ll catch itself and start back running normal. A day later it started shaking randomly then misfire in multiple cylinders. I checked all of my plugs (they were brand new) all of them were good and pinned not even a speck of dirt on em. I went to pull up a check engine light and noticed that my o2 voltage in bank 1 sensor 2 was spiking up and down the whole time while the car was shaking and misfiring. What you guys think??
What’s up guys , I have a 2017 stingray and recently I’ve done my longtubes. When I did them there was a o2 sensor I had to replace simply because I couldn’t get the oem one out. The car has been running fine for 2 weeks then out of no where she started shaking sounding like it was trying to die. Then it’ll catch itself and start back running normal. A day later it started shaking randomly then misfire in multiple cylinders. I checked all of my plugs (they were brand new) all of them were good and pinned not even a speck of dirt on em. I went to pull up a check engine light and noticed that my o2 voltage in bank 1 sensor 2 was spiking up and down the whole time while the car was shaking and misfiring. What you guys think??
the car is still doing it , it'll go away and come back. It mainly happens after wide open throttle or driving it for about 20 minutes.
What’s up guys , I have a 2017 stingray and recently I’ve done my longtubes. When I did them there was a o2 sensor I had to replace simply because I couldn’t get the oem one out. The car has been running fine for 2 weeks then out of no where she started shaking sounding like it was trying to die. Then it’ll catch itself and start back running normal. A day later it started shaking randomly then misfire in multiple cylinders. I checked all of my plugs (they were brand new) all of them were good and pinned not even a speck of dirt on em. I went to pull up a check engine light and noticed that my o2 voltage in bank 1 sensor 2 was spiking up and down the whole time while the car was shaking and misfiring. What you guys think??
What’s up guys , I have a 2017 stingray and recently I’ve done my longtubes. When I did them there was a o2 sensor I had to replace simply because I couldn’t get the oem one out. The car has been running fine for 2 weeks then out of no where she started shaking sounding like it was trying to die. Then it’ll catch itself and start back running normal. A day later it started shaking randomly then misfire in multiple cylinders. I checked all of my plugs (they were brand new) all of them were good and pinned not even a speck of dirt on em. I went to pull up a check engine light and noticed that my o2 voltage in bank 1 sensor 2 was spiking up and down the whole time while the car was shaking and misfiring. What you guys think??
All I see is the upstream O2 sensors which are supposed to “switch” between 200-800 millivolts…the downstream sensors “ sensor 2” are fairly constant around 700 millivolts…if downstream sensor oscillates like the upstream the catalytic converter has lost its ability to store oxygen…this may also be an exhaust leak anywhere between the upstream and downstream O2’s !!…do you have a P0300 stored ??
Looks like you have an intermittent circuit on Bank 1 Sensor 1 in front of the driver's side cat. Usually means the wire harness got torched by touching the header or one of the connectors isn't fully seated. Surprised there's not a code and check engine light unless they're turned off in the tune.
Looks like you have an intermittent circuit on Bank 1 Sensor 1 in front of the driver's side cat. Usually means the wire harness got torched by touching the header or one of the connectors isn't fully seated. Surprised there's not a code and check engine light unless they're turned off in the tune.
Checked my cel and P0300 appeared. I checked the bank 1 sensor 1 harness a couple days ago when I seen the code and it’s perfectly fine. Threw my snap on scanner on the car and pulled up misfire data… while the car was idling I had multiple misfires in cylinder 1 , 2 , 4 , 5 , 7
All I see is the upstream O2 sensors which are supposed to “switch” between 200-800 millivolts…the downstream sensors “ sensor 2” are fairly constant around 700 millivolts…if downstream sensor oscillates like the upstream the catalytic converter has lost its ability to store oxygen…this may also be an exhaust leak anywhere between the upstream and downstream O2’s !!…do you have a P0300 stored ??
yes I have p0300 , although whenever I go wot and come to a stop that’s when my cel starts blinking and the car misfires in multiple cylinders
Based on that sensor trace I would then lean towards a bad sensor, even if new. Also make sure you have them routed correctly and don't have the aft o2 sensors being used as the primary.
Based on that sensor trace I would then lean towards a bad sensor, even if new. Also make sure you have them routed correctly and don't have the aft o2 sensors being used as the primary.
I will look into that for sure and swap the sensor to see what happens.
You could also swap the sensors....Bank 1 to Bank 2 and vice versa....to see if the bad trace follows the sensor.
okay so update. I just swapped bank 1 sensor and cleared codes before starting the car. After I started the car went to do a code scan just to make sure and code “B1325” had came up saying “control module power circuits voltage below threshold” also another code “U0078” stating “control module communication low speed can bus off” and 3 more “B125C” “U0078” “U2098”
okay so update. I just swapped bank 1 sensor and cleared codes before starting the car. After I started the car went to do a code scan just to make sure and code “B1325” had came up saying “control module power circuits voltage below threshold” also another code “U0078” stating “control module communication low speed can bus off” and 3 more “B125C” “U0078” “U2098”
How old is the battery? The other things to check include wiring at the alternator and the wiring at the battery. If the little black wire that goes to the negative terminal (besides the actual cable) is not connected or broken, strange stuff like this can happen. Below is the diagnostics for B1325. You'll note there's a lot of focus on the battery.
03-13-2024, 11:29 PM
Shaking and rough idling and struggles to accelerate
