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I was just having a conversation about this subject with a co-worker that has a high-mileage’14. His car just rolled over 100,000 miles without a torque tube issue. He even has a supercharger. His rev count was a tad over 200 MILLION rotations!! That’s something to think about.
Yes it is a hell of a car but are you sure you want to buy a car that isn't being sold anymore? During warranty isn't too bad. Outside, could be difficult. IIRC, they only have to have parts WITHIN warranty. So if I am understanding it right, soon as the last warranty they have is done, they do not have to keep making parts so those parts are now on a whim. I have owned enough "Bastard" cars.
Sure, I would buy one. This rendition has the C8 Z06 engine and goodness knows how many other Corvette parts. Besides, I've been a bastard all of my life so I'd be right at home in a bastard Z28! 👍🏻😄
Sure, I would buy one. This rendition has the C8 Z06 engine and goodness knows how many other Corvette parts. Besides, I've been a bastard all of my life so I'd be right at home in a bastard Z28! 👍🏻😄
I'm not worried about the engine. Engine and transmission, even in my C4 are currently available. It is all the other body parts that might not be. In which case, you have to go dumpster diving or hope it shows up on eBay in better shape than yours, etc. Kinda why I wanted to get rid of the C4. Unfortunately, I had too much spent on it to want to just dump it so I tolerated it. Wife saved the day by insisting we get rid of the "Rickety POS". Her words exactly. Wasn't going to argue when she insisted we go shopping.
Does not make sense. LT6 is too tall to fit under the Camero hood. GM would have to rework the entire air intake path and that seems extremely unlikely for 1000 units.
Well tell that to the folks at GM. The staff at a local dealership were told that this was a done deal. What form it may take is anyone's guess, but it's going to happen.
How do you know its totally failed? I lost dribability after a 2nd gear pull. Punched it and about 100 ft later check engine light came on and reved out goes into D R N fine but just revs like trans is gone. Im hopin it isnt trans and could be TT i dont think ttans is gone as in park it still stops like it should when i do a roll test.
How do you know its totally failed? I lost dribability after a 2nd gear pull. Punched it and about 100 ft later check engine light came on and reved out goes into D R N fine but just revs like trans is gone. Im hopin it isnt trans and could be TT i dont think ttans is gone as in park it still stops like it should when i do a roll test.
hello buddy I’ve been through THREE TRANSMISSIONS. And I’ll tell you now YOUR TRANS IS GONE
Does not make sense. LT6 is too tall to fit under the Camero hood. GM would have to rework the entire air intake path and that seems extremely unlikely for 1000 units.
Rather rework the hood than the intake. I think this is a done deal.
Another reason I run PurePower reusable oil filters. I like being able to check the filter easily for strange little metallic flakes in the canister. Not only do I consider it a better filter but it is a lot easier than ripping open regular filters and fishing through all the 'paper'. They are one company that after being sold, the new owners are doing even a better job at customer support. Not associated with them in anyway but since some posters here may be getting anxious about possible unseen damage in engine it is something for them to consider.
By the time that something is large enough to be detected as "strange little metallic flakes" by the human eye, ruinous damage has already occurred. I also do not trust the cut open oil filters for the many problems they will never reveal. Yes, there are engine issues that only show up as elevated silicon, aluminum, or copper.
If you care very much about your C7, { and you're not a poor } then the logical choice is an oil analysis every change. Blackstone Labs is the big player in the analysis market, (and the most expensive) but certainly not the only lab. There are analysis labs that are nearly as good, but less expensive, especially if you opt out of any TBN (detergent) testing. Analysis really helps spot issues before they get bad enough to be visible to the human eye (meaning very expensive), and if you do run the TBN tests, is a very reliable indicator to help determine oil change intervals. Stop the mess and fuss of cutting up filters and get a report instead. It's what the serious players do.
Still thinking about the TT problem from time to time. Thinking outside the box. I wonder what percent are failure in the rear of the TT over failure in the front of the TT? Any where both failed? Wondering if any of the failures could be related to the ELSD some how? A harmonics issue that we can not perceive or feel. Sort of extremely fast water hammer effect. Maybe even a harsh, hard engagement of the clutches. This is all happening hundreds or thousands of times per second and is all programed and computer controlled. Over time it weakens the weak link in the system. Which is the TT. One would expect the rear part of the TT to most likely fail if ELSD was part of the problem. As the harshness or vibrations made by the ELSD is closer to the rear of the TT. The further away the less affect. Just thrown out there. These do not go bad instantly, but over the course of time. So it is really hard to say why it fails. I really do not know the ins and outs of the ELSD system. Just something to think about.
My TT coupler failed on my 2011 C6 GS at just over 45,000 miles. It snapped a bolt and was flopping around... crazy thing is, there was no symptom. I removed the Trans due to 2nd gear failure and a bad clutch... TDP recomended I at least take the TT apart and take a look... and I'm glad I did!
with that said, I've sense rebuilt the TT and have it ready to go back in... just finishing a few engine details before dropping it back into the car...
Now I have heard that many feel it's excessive heat coming from the exhaust that's causing these to fail early. So I'm taking the very precaution to fighting heat and lowering my counsel temps by as much as possible. If it helps the TT live longer that's the goal, and it if drops the cabin temps... that's a bonus!
So while wrapping my headers, I was looking at my rebuilt TT and thought... I wonder if wrapping the TT would make any significant difference... I should help minimize any radiant heat from heat soaking the TT... and it would prevent any heat that the TT picked up from radiating into the counsel...
so I did it... wrapped the TT with DEI titanium and sprayed DEI high temp silicone paint over the wrap...
I thought header wrap is not good since it cause rust?
Ive never heard that one. Typically they can cause uneven cooling of the metal which can lead to stress fractures in the metal... over time causing them to leak.
evenly wrapping them helps them dry/cool at the same rate... so as long as the header wrap is not wet when turned off, it shouldn't be an issue.
my exhaust is stainless steel... so rust is not an issue.
the torque tube is aluminum... so again, rust is really not a factor... and in a location that gets as hot as the sun... so even if moisture finds its way there... it will dissipate long before the moisture could think about causing corrosion.
Ive never heard that one. Typically they can cause uneven cooling of the metal which can lead to stress fractures in the metal... over time causing them to leak.
evenly wrapping them helps them dry/cool at the same rate... so as long as the header wrap is not wet when turned off, it shouldn't be an issue.
my exhaust is stainless steel... so rust is not an issue.
the torque tube is aluminum... so again, rust is really not a factor... and in a location that gets as hot as the sun... so even if moisture finds its way there... it will dissipate long before the moisture could think about causing corrosion.
but rust is the least of my concerns.
SPEED SAFE, Nick
I removed wrap on one of mine only to find quite a bit of rust. The header had a hole in it. It wasn't stainless though and that was what the performance shop said. Basically, if it gets wet, it soaks and keeps moisture there longer. My cars all drive in all weather. C7 can't do snow so we have to shut it down and store it to make room on the driveway.
it started about 500 miles after I got it. It was enough to shake the car. Now it seems ok after 1500 miles. Had a few hard engagements in down shifting at slow speeds. Hopefully it will stop soon.
As far as the leather dash the sunscreen should work. Also you can put a white bath towel on the dash to cut the heat till you get one. Make sure it is custom cut for the C7. I paid like $45 on ebay for a plain one.
If I purchased a used C7, no way I would not pay out of pocket for the triple flush, shudder or not. Why drive around with the wrong tranny fluid. When shudder appears, parts have needlessly already worn.
If I purchased a used C7, no way I would not pay out of pocket for the triple flush, shudder or not. Why drive around with the wrong tranny fluid. When shudder appears, parts have needlessly already worn.
Yes but there are many more that want to wait for confirmation by the shudder before thinking about it.
Happy Holidays! Two weeks ago I was in the process of purchasing an Arctic White 2018 C7 from an Orlando dealership, sight-unseen. The owner advised the motor 'didn't sound right', and was having it checked at a local Chev dealership. Yes, the torque tube bearings had failed. He sent a copy of the repair bill - less than $400 in parts...$2,648 labor, which they covered. Even though it was professionally repaired, and based upon several OP's above, I decided upon an extended warranty. With 96k miles, a GM warranty was unavailable. Some due diligence discovered a company I had never heard of - American Dream Auto Protect. Huh? Well, in comparison with Endurance, Car Shield, Stateside and host of others, I signed up for 65 months, bumper-to-bumper, cancel anytime for a pro-rated refund, with a cost of $62/month. My deductible is $100 per event. I had a Ron Fellows C6, fabulous car, but the front wheel bearings gave out. That was a $2,344 repair, which cost me $150 at the time. So, bottom line is I'm a believer in warranties. My Corvettes don't sit idle, as I drive them year-round, rain, snow, sunshine, clouds, frigid or heat-wave. I must say it took an hour to negotiate the price I was willing to pay, as the original quote was considerably higher. You've probably experienced this also, but the policy has a 30-day 'no coverage' period, from the date of inception. Anytime within that month, it can be canceled with a full refund. So,...flip a coin...
08-11-2023, 02:15 PM
