When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LG kit is very promising, and I am looking forward to testing it out next season, but to my great surprise, it did not come with instructions! Yes, there's a video showing about 1/3 of the install, and pictures to help you figure it all out, but that leaves quite a bit of the details out. Here's hoping my experience can help others:
What you need:
LG kit (link) --> I recommend getting it with the pre-cut bumper, but without oil cooler.
Split-Type Rivets GM 11516807 --> What came with the kit were very hard to use, and must be steel type. These are so much easier to use, and are much more compact.
5/8" hose barb --> The kit was missing 1 barb, meant to connect pump intake to supercharger out. You should also get clamps (I've sourced it from a local store).
A circular cutter, or similar -- > Needed to cut the pump's bracket, as well as the body pieces that need to be cut to get the core to fit.
Various tools: T15 bit. T30 bit and key (key for stage 3 aero), 7mm, 10mm, 19mm (for new bleeder).
[Optional] GSPEED Dry break intercooler bleed kit. link
1. Unpack the new cores if you'd like them in black. Now is a good time to get them painted. Before... After.
2. Take off the bumper. There are numerous videos and how-to posts on this. You just need to take the aero bolts, top bolts, and 3 long torx bolts on each side, and it can then be popped off. Be careful with the plastic retainers by the headlights. Using a simple hook to persuade them seems to be the best way. I also zip-tied the fender liners back to the control arm to keep them out of the way.
3. Unhook the top hoses to the supercharger. There should be very little leak, since they are the highest point, after all.
4. Drain the system. I pulled out the side port, which increases the drain speed.
5. Take the s/c pump and expansion tanks out. Modify them as instructed by LG's video. I've used the barb on this pump's input line from the supercharger. Keep in mind, the hose that connects from s/c to the top of the intercooler port connects to the pump's input (shown with the barb), and the other one from the s/c will connect to the final return line from the new intercooler cores.
6. Now let's remove the OEM intercooler. It is held up in place by small nuts. You'll need to jerk it around a bit, and also remove the driver side lid for space.
7. Seal the sides emptied by the intercooler.
8. The snorkel's corner will need to be trimmed to make the cooler cores fit. It creates a lot of dust : ( Once done, install the cores per instructed by LG's pic and video. KEEP THE CORES LOOSE. I had to take the brake ducts out to do the first install, and you will need to remove the cores back to reinstall them (don't install ducts yet, so you can check around for leaks, do easier bleeding etc.).
9. Plumb the hoses as instructed by LG's pics. Keep the expansion tank loose and brake ducts not yet installed, so that we can bleed it easier, later. Don't cut the hoses, thinking they're too long. Once the brake ducts are in place, the extra slack will be needed to route around them.
10. Start filling the system and make sure you check all connections for a leak. I've used G-Speed's dry bleed kit, but it's not required. I've also used their pump override switch, so I could run the pump without running the car.
11. Bleed the system by opening up bleeders on top of the cores. It got much easier when I loosened the expansion tank and jerked it around to get most of the air out. This is only possible when you have the brake duct not in its place.
12. Installing cheek shrouds; follow LG's pics if you need to cut your bumper. The rivets that came with the kit were very hard to install, and they look to be steel. Switching to aluminum rivets made everything much easier.
Two plates were enough to put the ducting in place. Install the plates onto the bumper first, since you can't install them once the duct is in place. I've used 2 rivets on each side to fix the grille in place.
Finished. The driver side duct did not conform to the shape of the bumper, perfectly. The passenger side was a better fit.
13. Test fit the bumper to see if everything (seemingly) fits.
Despite following exact measurements (2 1/4" from the crash beam), the cores were too close and pushed the brake ductings in a bit. If I were to do it again, I'd but a bit more distance; perhaps 2.35"?
14. The under tray's front section did not fit in with the hoses in there. I had to trim it. I do have DeWitt's larger AUX cooler, though, and you might have a better chance.
I was not able to fit both hoses up front. I've ended up routing one of them by the AUX cooler's hoses.
15. Cut vents into the fender liners. I've decided to not use the vents that came with the kit, since they're known to break during parking maneuvers, etc. due to interference. I cut the opening at 8.5"x8.5", 1" away from the ducting.
I've used the original vent grilles that came with the kit for venting. I've used rivets to fix it in place.
I've also covered the bottom vent for better protection.
16. Enlarged the opening by the air intake, as recommended by @BrunoTheMellow.
Fantastic ! I'll be replacing my plastic vents with metal mesh before next season also!
You'll also love the new supercharger whistle/more pronounced sound.
I think you should get a halltech intake for a little extra umph while you're at it. I make 1.0 psi over stock with it. Good for about 40 ponies.
I was wondering about the s/c whine; so it's merely since I left that hole open? It's a very noticeable change, and I even wondered if everything was working fine at first : )
I'm fine with BMS. It already dynoed ~590+ whp; I don't need more!
Originally Posted by Dane@LGmotorsports
Awesome write up!
Thanks, Dane! Looking forward to stress-testing it when the season opens.
I was wondering about the s/c whine; so it's merely since I left that hole open? It's a very noticeable change, and I even wondered if everything was working fine at first : )
I'm fine with BMS. It already dynoed ~590+ whp; I don't need more!
Thanks, Dane! Looking forward to stress-testing it when the season opens.
That's merely it! Everyone should remove that plastic trim. Now ride passenger with the windows down. Then you'll really like it. It's much louder on that side.
Added:
The weatherstrip for the bumper; GM 23309567: The replacement bumper will be missing this weatherstrip that seals between bumper and the hood.
I just realized the weatherstrip between the hood and the bumper is missing, leaving a rather large gap. Anyway, ordered one from TrunkMonkeyParts ($23 + shipping), and added it to the first post : )
Following and installing now, stuck on removing my stock heat exchanger from the middle. It's loose in the car, but I have no idea how to actually get it out without removing the main rad/ac condenser. I'd rather not if I could help it.
If I remember right you have to remove all the main radiator and ac condenser mounting bolts and pull it open enough at the top to pull the heat exchanger through.
Edit: This thread will help with your install too.
If I remember right you have to remove all the main radiator and ac condenser mounting bolts and pull it open enough at the top to pull the heat exchanger through.
Edit: This thread will help with your install too.
For others, what I did (after heat exchanger is entirely loose in the cradle)
1. Remove top air dam.
2. Remove air intake, I folded mine out of the way, I also undid a hard plastic tube from the rad that runs over the intake. You will lose some coolant so, try to plug it back in before wiggling the rad...
3. remove 2 big 13mm grey bolts that hold the rad/ac in.
4. There is a thin metal bar that runs over the rad, it's either black or body painted. Held on by two grey nuts, I removed the nuts and tilted the bar away. It sits right over where you're gonna want to pull the HE up through.
5. It was a bit of a bear, I muscled the rad and ac back, wearing gloves, just enough to slide the HE out. I did nick the ac condenser a little but I got it out easy enough. If I was a smaller guy, id have two folks doing this. (One pulling, one fishing)
Note: you are fighting a few things when you push on the rad, one being hard AC lines so, just keep that in mind..... they are strong but breaking one will suck!
I removed the HX radiator and shroud out the bottom of the car. I was actually pretty easy once you loosen the engine coolant radiator and A/C condenser. I did not disconnect any coolant lines from the main radiator and condenser and was able to put my hand on the bottom of the radiator and push up a couple of inches to give enough clearance to get the HX shroud lip up and over the main radiator support brace. See pic below. Then the whole HX shroud and radiator pulls straight down.
Actually it was this guy's video that helped me figure it all out. I spent hours trying to pull the HX radiator out to the driver side and it just can't get out that way. At least I couldn't. The next morning, I started working on getting it out the bottom, and got it done in less than an hour.
Installing my kit now, anyone have issues with the compression fittings on the heat exchanger/intercoolers leaking? I have 1 (labeled "A") that ever so slightly weeps. I can only really tell by wiping a paper towel around it. It is weeping from NOT the "screw" part, but the L part that attaches to the "screw"/"Nut". I may have over-tightened it? I REALLY wrenched on it after it was weeping, of course, still weeping. Very odd.
Pretty annoying . . . maybe it will seal up after heat cycling?
I just kept checking and tightening every couple days until it finally quit. I would only tighten a couple degrees at a time once you get to that "really wrenched down" point.
I just kept checking and tightening every couple days until it finally quit. I would only tighten a couple degrees at a time once you get to that "really wrenched down" point.
12-10-2019, 06:22 AM
HOW-TO: Install LG Z06 Cooling kit (My take)
