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Does anyone know if this will fit in the 2014 M7 non-Z51? I've seen several people say it fit their 2015 M7 but hadn't seen confirmation on the 2014. I'm constantly battling heat issues here in FL with my 2014, was already looking at getting the 600W fan too.
I also saw a couple people mention adding the AUX cooler, which one are you all talking about?
This should fit all C7s; I don't think there's any difference in dimensions from model to model. Actually, as far as I know, aftermarket radiators are also marketed to fit all C7s.
Figured I'd post some results. For $250 and a couple hours of time, I'm satisfied. Frankly I was just looking for some added margin unlike in my C6 GS where I was seeing 250* coolant temps and wanted a serious drop (which I got with a DeWitts....30* drop!... in 100* weather).
Top of the pic is coolant temp. Middle is speed. Bottom is outside air temp.
Red is data with the OEM thin radiator Blue is data with the OEM thick radiator
Same track for both, Auto Club Speedway
Red Lap was a 1:51.9 on lap 7
Blue Lap was a 1:50.8 on lap 8
Red outside air temps were ~8* cooler than the Blue data
On average with the thicker radiator it ran ~4* cooler. Also compared the full sessions and it was the same result.
You seem to be running the stock thermostat, which doesn't fully open before 212 degrees F if I recall (please correct me if I'm wrong). In order for us to see the delta, we'd need to compare results where it's by, say, 220 degrees F or above with both radiators. Otherwise, the cooling capacity would be reduced by thermostat, skewing results.
You seem to be running the stock thermostat, which doesn't fully open before 212 degrees F if I recall (please correct me if I'm wrong). In order for us to see the delta, we'd need to compare results where it's by, say, 220 degrees F or above with both radiators. Otherwise, the cooling capacity would be reduced by thermostat, skewing results.
60 mile drive between home and the track. Since new it's always been in the low 190s for that drive and other drives. If the thermostat wasn't fully open until 212*, I don't think I'd see steady 190s.
LS3 t-stat was rated at 180* and fully open around 190*. Used to see the same low 190* temps when driving on the freeway before and after the DeWitts radiator.
Figured I'd post some results. For $250 and a couple hours of time, I'm satisfied. Frankly I was just looking for some added margin unlike in my C6 GS where I was seeing 250* coolant temps and wanted a serious drop (which I got with a DeWitts....30* drop!... in 100* weather).
Top of the pic is coolant temp. Middle is speed. Bottom is outside air temp.
Red is data with the OEM thin radiator Blue is data with the OEM thick radiator
Same track for both, Auto Club Speedway
Red Lap was a 1:51.9 on lap 7
Blue Lap was a 1:50.8 on lap 8
Red outside air temps were ~8* cooler than the Blue data
On average with the thicker radiator it ran ~4* cooler. Also compared the full sessions and it was the same result.
FWIW....
did you install the original hot air exhaust box that routes to the hood scoop back leave it off?
My car also hovers in high 190s on highway (stock thermostat).
Wish I knew someone that had a stock thermostat laying around they could toss in a pot of water for us with a thermometer. I've never seen a car run below the full open point during long drives and at normal outside temps (ie not 40 below zero sort of thing).
As someone who's had overheating issues since I got my 2014 non-Z51 that the dealership has repaired items over time but GM has done nothing to actually fix with these older cars (not pissed at GM at all...) I watch my temps all the time. The engine and oil temp runs around 180~200F and the coolant 210~220F here in Florida when operating correctly in basic driving. Those go up about 10~20F in stop and go traffic IF everything is operating correctly.
The 200+F thermostat was only for 2014 cars but there are tons of threads about them since they were the first cars. There's some confusion too in that the 2014 started to open at 200+F versus those afterwards that full open at 212F but start to open at 194F.
The 2014 stock OEM one is supposedly 200+F and the aftermarket OEM-like state they open at 207F/97C, the Z51 might have the same thermostat. Full open is probably about 230F/110C, I couldn't find proof on that but based on an average of 20F difference in normal thermostat behavior.
The 2015 Z51 and Z06 (and maybe the non-Z51) thermostat is 194F/90C full open is about 212F/100C.
Looks like cars after 2015 also have the 194F/90C thermostat.
Whatever the case, the bottom line is that the larger Z06 A8 OEM radiator does add a bit of margin to the cooling system. For me it averages ~4*. If you have an aftermarket thermostat with a much lower opening temp....the delta may be more Just trying to share some observations with real data
Whatever the case, the bottom line is that the larger Z06 A8 OEM radiator does add a bit of margin to the cooling system. For me it averages ~4*. If you have an aftermarket thermostat with a much lower opening temp....the delta may be more Just trying to share some observations with real data
Thanks for sharing your experience and sorry if I sounded like a jerk; I merely wanted to point out that the delta is likely even more due thermostat not being fully open : ) I think this radiator is a great upgrade for everyone.
Thanks for sharing your experience and sorry if I sounded like a jerk; I merely wanted to point out that the delta is likely even more due thermostat not being fully open : ) I think this radiator is a great upgrade for everyone.
The temp. difference of the cooland alone is a bit misleading.
The real delta between the original and the thicker radiator is 12°: 4° cooler coolant at 8° higher outside temp. If the thermostat didn't fully open with the thicker radiator, it is even higher.
The heat a cooling system can transfer is depending on a number of things, but given eevrything else is the same, it is proportional to the average temp. difference between coolant and cooling medium (air).
10% higher deltza T = 10% more heat transferred.
Once the thermostat is fully open, 10° higher outside air temp. leads to 10° higher coolant temp. - if everything else is the same.
As you hit higher temps, timing will be pulled, changing the power and heat generation. Moreover, higher IATs also greatly impact heat generation, especially on supercharged cars, skewing numbers. As such, merely basing the guesstimate on the heat transfer efficiency would be misleading in my opinion.
Perhaps I should stop responding; I'll soon have no friends left : )
Oh, don't worry, there is nothing personal from my point of view, a pure technical discussion. We are all here to learn !
And how can we learn, without technically controvers discussions?
So, no bad feelings from my end at all.
And yes, you are right that the heat generated might change when outside temps. change, due to the reasons you mentioned.
I just think because it was 8° warmer outside, but the coolant temps were 4° lower, the differences in heat generated are small anyway and on top both work in opposite directions (8° higher outside temps = more heat generated and less timing, 4° lower coolant temps = more timing).
This is also supprted by the fact the the speed on the round course was more or less exactely the same (= siomilat amount of heat generated per unit of time).
Therefore (and it was the LT1, wasn't it?) the impact should be rather low, compared to the impact of the thicker radiator.
As said, no bad feelings at all from my end.
I am a mechanical engineer and work in the development of technical products. Such controvers discussions are a necessity for a flaw-free development process in my experience.
Therefore I like such discussion, but I know that some people take it personal.
09-13-2020, 08:40 PM
Just trying to share some observations with real data 
