C7 Tech/Performance Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Tech Topics, Basic Tech, Maintenance, How to Remove & Replace
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2014 overheated to 260

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-21-2024, 10:59 AM
  #61  
brentil
Instructor
 
brentil's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 234
Received 41 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by rastolpho
Hi everyone, just wanted to thank you all for the discussion on this thread.

I recently got a 2014 C7 and it has been working great but today I was hit with this overheating issue while in a stop and go traffic (outside temps at mid 70s).

Found a place to get the Z06 fan to replace and it should arrive later this week for the swap.

Appreciate you all keeping the thread updated so it was easier to narrow down the actual issue.
I highly recommend also replacing the thermostat with one from a 2016 MY or newer now too. You've likely damaged the old one with the high heat and the newer ones open at a slightly lower temp than the 2014MY thermostat.
Old 04-21-2024, 11:25 AM
  #62  
rastolpho
Heel & Toe
 
rastolpho's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by brentil
I highly recommend also replacing the thermostat with one from a 2016 MY or newer now too. You've likely damaged the old one with the high heat and the newer ones open at a slightly lower temp than the 2014MY thermostat.
Thanks for the info! I’ve actually been looking at that as well.

Reason was due to the halo around the RPM gauge showing when cruising down the highway, noticed it during the winter.

I’m assuming with a lower thermostat (I believe a 180 is ok?) that would trigger even more? I’m not worried about that really, just want the engine to be happy and last a long time. 😂

If you happen to know the part number I would appreciate it!
Old 04-21-2024, 12:02 PM
  #63  
eboggs_jkvl
Moderator/Tech Contributor

Thread Starter
 
eboggs_jkvl's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
Posts: 18,280
Received 3,831 Likes on 2,072 Posts
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist

Default

Put the stock t-stat in. Saves you from problems.

Elmer
Old 04-21-2024, 01:36 PM
  #64  
rastolpho
Heel & Toe
 
rastolpho's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Put the stock t-stat in. Saves you from problems.

Elmer
Just some quick reads while driving, avg of 175 engine temp, oil at around 185ish or so while cruising at 75mph and at roughly 72 degrees outside.

But when on stop and go traffic, engine goes to about 200, oil goes up to 200 or so.

When I ran into the overheat issue it was on stop and go traffic.

Curious, original Tstat on the 2014 is 194?
Old 04-22-2024, 08:11 AM
  #65  
brentil
Instructor
 
brentil's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 234
Received 41 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

The 2014 has a 207°F thermostat which they then replaced with a 194°F thermostat for the 2015-2019 model years. You'll see a 2014 with an original thermostat idle at 210 F and a later model idle at 200 F instead. So if you were idling at 200 F that means you already had a replaced newer thermostat. I'd still replace it again with a newer version again as it helps just keep the engine slightly cooler overall but might have been damaged with the heat going to high. The overheating issue is due to the original fan faulting and failing to turn on. I'm honestly surprised there was never a recall for this.
Old 04-22-2024, 09:11 AM
  #66  
rastolpho
Heel & Toe
 
rastolpho's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by brentil
The 2014 has a 207°F thermostat which they then replaced with a 194°F thermostat for the 2015-2019 model years. You'll see a 2014 with an original thermostat idle at 210 F and a later model idle at 200 F instead. So if you were idling at 200 F that means you already had a replaced newer thermostat. I'd still replace it again with a newer version again as it helps just keep the engine slightly cooler overall but might have been damaged with the heat going to high. The overheating issue is due to the original fan faulting and failing to turn on. I'm honestly surprised there was never a recall for this.
Thanks for the reply!

Yes, so I went ahead and ordered a new Tstat anyway since it’s an easy swap. The 2015 and after model.

Since I don’t know the entire history on the car, I’m also doing a full coolant service (following the instructions I found here on the forums) so I can be sure it’s all new along with the new fan.

Its also due for an oil change sitting at 1% so doing that as well.. Will be a busy weekend in my garage. 😂

Appreciate all the responses!
Old 04-22-2024, 03:40 PM
  #67  
Red86Cfour
Burning Brakes
 
Red86Cfour's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 811
Received 140 Likes on 106 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by brentil
The 2014 has a 207°F thermostat which they then replaced with a 194°F thermostat for the 2015-2019 model years. You'll see a 2014 with an original thermostat idle at 210 F and a later model idle at 200 F instead. So if you were idling at 200 F that means you already had a replaced newer thermostat. I'd still replace it again with a newer version again as it helps just keep the engine slightly cooler overall but might have been damaged with the heat going to high. The overheating issue is due to the original fan faulting and failing to turn on. I'm honestly surprised there was never a recall for this.
I replaced my 2014 thermostat when I got the zero temp/screaming fans problem. Stock part according to the GM guy is 217, which was stamped both on the new part and the part I removed. I'm not terribly thrilled with it running at 217 all the time so I may change it out for a lower temp from a 2015

And just to be a bit more clear about the original problem, it isn't with the fans, but with the controller which can't be bought separately. It goes to sleep during sustained highway driving, so that when you come to stop for a slowdown or exit, it won't turn the fans back on. The zo6 controller obviously doesn't have this problem, and in addition the fans are higher wattage and move more air when needed. You really would have thought this would be a recall problem.
The following users liked this post:
rastolpho (04-22-2024)
Old 04-23-2024, 12:13 PM
  #68  
brentil
Instructor
 
brentil's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 234
Received 41 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Red86Cfour
I replaced my 2014 thermostat when I got the zero temp/screaming fans problem. Stock part according to the GM guy is 217, which was stamped both on the new part and the part I removed. I'm not terribly thrilled with it running at 217 all the time so I may change it out for a lower temp from a 2015

And just to be a bit more clear about the original problem, it isn't with the fans, but with the controller which can't be bought separately. It goes to sleep during sustained highway driving, so that when you come to stop for a slowdown or exit, it won't turn the fans back on. The zo6 controller obviously doesn't have this problem, and in addition the fans are higher wattage and move more air when needed. You really would have thought this would be a recall problem.
The fan not turning on and the 0 coolant temp are actually 2 different issues. I had both of them happen with my MY14 at different times. There's a reason GM lowered the temp starting with MY15 because it results in a 3rd problem over time unrelated to the other 2. I'm also surprised there wasn't a recall for this as well. The original TB I saw when it first happened mentioned the higher constant temps could cause the plastic thermostat housing to slowly deform over time which can cause a bubble to form and then cavitation resulting in fluid starvation. First time I had overheating happen was because of that and they replaced the new 2015 housing but put a stupid MY14 thermostat back in which I promptly replaced with the newest version myself.

There's several problems with the MY14 that can happen, I've experienced all of them separately multiple times over the 7 years I owned my MY14 as the original owner. I got GM involved a couple times with my dealership because of the continued issues. I live in FL so it's always hot and we always run the AC making extra load, and I daily drove my car and did multiple 4k+ mile road trips too so had nearly 100k miles.
  1. Higher running temp of the MY14 thermostat can warp the thermostat housing resulting in overheating. Replace it with a new MY15 or newer housing and thermostat.
  2. The MY14 fan controller can become unresponsive resulting the in fans not turning on when the car requests them resulting in overheating. Replace with the Z06 fans as they have higher air flow and their controller does not have issues.
  3. If the thermostat is damaged from a previous overheating event or the housing being warped it will get stuck open always flowing coolant keeping the coolant temp too low all the time. There's some logic in the engine controller that if that value is too low too long the engine temp sensor reading drops to NULL (not 0 but NULL). It's not a sensor issue (replaced all sensors) or a harness issue (replaced harnesses). When the car engine temp vanishes it puts the car in limp mode which results in the fans going to 100%, rev match disabled, and AC disabled (nightmare in FL). Solution is to replace the thermostat housing with a MY15 and thermostat itself from MY15 or newer.
  4. If you have an overheating event for any reason it can warp the thermostat housing causing new issues. Replace it with a MY15 or newer and the thermostat.
  5. If you have an overheating event for any reason it can warp the coolant hose to and from the radiator, inspect to replace.
Old 04-23-2024, 12:20 PM
  #69  
rastolpho
Heel & Toe
 
rastolpho's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by brentil
The fan not turning on and the 0 coolant temp are actually 2 different issues. I had both of them happen with my MY14 at different times. There's a reason GM lowered the temp starting with MY15 because it results in a 3rd problem over time unrelated to the other 2. I'm also surprised there wasn't a recall for this as well. The original TB I saw when it first happened mentioned the higher constant temps could cause the plastic thermostat housing to slowly deform over time which can cause a bubble to form and then cavitation resulting in fluid starvation. First time I had overheating happen was because of that and they replaced the new 2015 housing but put a stupid MY14 thermostat back in which I promptly replaced with the newest version myself.

There's several problems with the MY14 that can happen, I've experienced all of them separately multiple times over the 7 years I owned my MY14 as the original owner. I got GM involved a couple times with my dealership because of the continued issues. I live in FL so it's always hot and we always run the AC making extra load, and I daily drove my car and did multiple 4k+ mile road trips too so had nearly 100k miles.
  1. Higher running temp of the MY14 thermostat can warp the thermostat housing resulting in overheating. Replace it with a new MY15 or newer housing and thermostat.
  2. The MY14 fan controller can become unresponsive resulting the in fans not turning on when the car requests them resulting in overheating. Replace with the Z06 fans as they have higher air flow and their controller does not have issues.
  3. If the thermostat is damaged from a previous overheating event or the housing being warped it will get stuck open always flowing coolant keeping the coolant temp too low all the time. There's some logic in the engine controller that if that value is too low too long the engine temp sensor reading drops to NULL (not 0 but NULL). It's not a sensor issue (replaced all sensors) or a harness issue (replaced harnesses). When the car engine temp vanishes it puts the car in limp mode which results in the fans going to 100%, rev match disabled, and AC disabled (nightmare in FL). Solution is to replace the thermostat housing with a MY15 and thermostat itself from MY15 or newer.
  4. If you have an overheating event for any reason it can warp the thermostat housing causing new issues. Replace it with a MY15 or newer and the thermostat.
  5. If you have an overheating event for any reason it can warp the coolant hose to and from the radiator, inspect to replace.
Thanks for all the info! I've read about these issues and how it can snowball into other issues if not fixed "all at the same time", hence why I'm doing a new Tstat with the new 600W fan from the Z06 and doing a full coolant swap (with at least 3 distilled water runs to get it as much of the old one out as possible). I'll also check the coolant hose while doing the fan. Is this an easy swap as well if the fan is already out? Thinking I might do that so that other than the radiator itself, that system is back to almost its original state...

Doing an oil change as well, I can see my Sunday being quite busy but I'm excited to get it all taken care of at once!
Old 04-24-2024, 11:53 AM
  #70  
brentil
Instructor
 
brentil's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 234
Received 41 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by rastolpho
Thanks for all the info! I've read about these issues and how it can snowball into other issues if not fixed "all at the same time", hence why I'm doing a new Tstat with the new 600W fan from the Z06 and doing a full coolant swap (with at least 3 distilled water runs to get it as much of the old one out as possible). I'll also check the coolant hose while doing the fan. Is this an easy swap as well if the fan is already out? Thinking I might do that so that other than the radiator itself, that system is back to almost its original state...

Doing an oil change as well, I can see my Sunday being quite busy but I'm excited to get it all taken care of at once!
I lucked out that the one time my hoses were damaged was under warranty so they replaced them too so I unfortunately don't know how hard they are to replace. You can visually inspect them and feel them by hand looking for odd bulges usually around where they touch the radiator or engine.
The following users liked this post:
rastolpho (04-24-2024)
Old 05-03-2024, 06:47 PM
  #71  
rdbragg
1st Gear
 
rdbragg's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2013
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 1
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I just had a similar occurrence on my 2014 and wanted to share my findings. I overheated after a nice long freeway drive and then getting off and into some stop and go. I also did not hear my fan running and assumed that an intermittent fan was the issue. I drove it home on the freeway after letting it cool and it did not overheat, but it did puke out of the surge tank vent tube on the bottom when I stopped the car. It would do this reliably and the fan was working. I also noticed that the system was not pressurizing properly and I could easily squeeze radiator hose when it should have been firm. I replaced the fan, thermostat and the pressure cap, but it still would puke out the surge tank vent tube after being warmed up and the engine turned off. It was also still not pressurizing. I decided that it had to be some weird break in the surge tank and replaced it and that cured the issue. Now the system pressurizes and does not leak from the vent tube. So a break in the seam of the plastic surge tank seems to have been the true cause coupled with the odd "fan fails to turn on" condition. I feel it was more than one thing, but the real problem was the system failing to hold pressure due to some hairline fracture in the surge tank at a seam between the top and bottom halves. Smooth, empty roads to all!!
The following users liked this post:
brentil (05-04-2024)
Old 05-04-2024, 09:20 AM
  #72  
eboggs_jkvl
Moderator/Tech Contributor

Thread Starter
 
eboggs_jkvl's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
Posts: 18,280
Received 3,831 Likes on 2,072 Posts
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist

Default

Originally Posted by rdbragg
I just had a similar occurrence on my 2014 and wanted to share my findings. I overheated after a nice long freeway drive and then getting off and into some stop and go. I also did not hear my fan running and assumed that an intermittent fan was the issue. I drove it home on the freeway after letting it cool and it did not overheat, but it did puke out of the surge tank vent tube on the bottom when I stopped the car. It would do this reliably and the fan was working. I also noticed that the system was not pressurizing properly and I could easily squeeze radiator hose when it should have been firm. I replaced the fan, thermostat and the pressure cap, but it still would puke out the surge tank vent tube after being warmed up and the engine turned off. It was also still not pressurizing. I decided that it had to be some weird break in the surge tank and replaced it and that cured the issue. Now the system pressurizes and does not leak from the vent tube. So a break in the seam of the plastic surge tank seems to have been the true cause coupled with the odd "fan fails to turn on" condition. I feel it was more than one thing, but the real problem was the system failing to hold pressure due to some hairline fracture in the surge tank at a seam between the top and bottom halves. Smooth, empty roads to all!!

Might be a coincidence but in 2014, when this issue first hit, I doubt if the surge tank was defective as it was new. The fan controller built in to the fam unit was the problem. The Z06 fan replaced the fan controller and fixed the problem 100% of the time.

You went into a lot of testing and may have found something but the controller was what we had screwing us.

Elmer
The following users liked this post:
rdbragg (05-04-2024)



Quick Reply: 2014 overheated to 260



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:36 AM.