needaz06

He needs to learn to slip the clutch slightly on the launch. I've never driven a C7, but in other vehicles it helps to not hold the clutch all the way on the floor when launching. Try and hold it just where it starts to engage, but the car doesn't creep forward. This will help to reduce some of the shock to the drivetrain.

0ProChargerTech

Dang, hopefully its a rare thing.

That is some carnage. However when a gear case of any kind lets go, its usually never good. (MASS DESTRUCTION at its finest)

Did he get any good passes in at all, before that?

tblu92

My experience with owning now 4 (2- C5's---1--C6 and now a C7) is to run the rear pressures with any tire down to around 10-12 PSI at a drag strip---Any Z rated tire has extremely short and stiff sidewalls--so getting them as soft as you can helps
PS: I ran my 2002 C5 with custom made C4 16" wheels that had 4-5 " sidewalls--Simply that change increased my 60' time by 2 tenths and overall ET by 3 tenths !!

Greg Quillen

what is a new E-Diff going to run?

I am running Mickey Thompsons.. I try to slip clutch on launch to help not break parts often..

tried over 4K launch last time at drag strip slipping the clutch but slipped it too much and it just kept slipping and didnt grab..

Jim Barker

I always added air to keep the center of the tire planted with increased weight transfer, with street tires that is. This advantage for me worked better than the rest, at the time that was running low pressure and recaps or bald tires. I put an end to the streak at the local dragstrip of the consistent winner in my class and the optional class we were allowed to jump into with that little trick. How different our experiences are!

Higgs Boson

10-12 psi on a street radial is WAY too low. a great way to ruin your tires and get the center of the tread to arch up and leave two tiny strips of traction on the edges....terrible.

10-12 psi is great for a 29-31 inch bias ply slick.....drag radials should be 15-20 psi......street tires are good high 20s.

Zip Corvettes

I know of another that failed very early on. However that failure really had nothing to do with the E-Diff. That spider gear is the same one that is used in the C6 I am pretty sure. We looked at them and compared but did not spend much time on it since I was really interested in the new e-clutch. The diff is expensive from GM if you can get one. It took a couple of months to get the ones that we have.
I am sure that one could be repaired depending on how bad the rest of it is. If all the carnage stayed inside the carrier we should have the parts to fix it if needed.
Justin

tech369

I also have a 2014 C7 with a Procharger M7... took it to the track Friday with new NT01s (only thing readily available). Did an easy launch with 26psi in the tires at about 2800 and ran a 11.5 @ 125. Then dropped them down to 20psi and gave it hell at 3800rpm and kaboom...

Hasn't been tore apart yet but is def in the dif, output shaft or axle. Stay tuned

Greg Quillen

got to slip the clutch..
sorry to hear that though..

Randy WS6

Wonder if the new Z06, is going to have a beefier rear end ? You would think that GM would have built our rear end to hold at the drag strip. Even with power adders. GM should have known that we are not going to stay stock for long. They are going to build a hot rod, GM should have built it to handle it. Im surprised the clutches are still holding up on the M7's

JUIC3D

Slicks for sticks.

robertf97

Probably so, engineers typically design to at least 1.2X the load. Therefore I would bet the Z06 should take at least ~1.2x650 ft-lbs = 780 ft-lbs where the Stingray is probably only designed to take ~1.2x460 = 550 ft-lbs. The tires are the fuse of course.

tech369

Honestly i didnt think the tires would hold but they def did.

Greg Quillen

Yea about right. At 630whp on camaro I broke a rear end a year. Been slipping clutch on corvette a lot to keep from breaking things.

LS1LT1

I'm betting that it will be a little stronger, though even the base C7 LT1's rear appears to be notably stronger than the previous base C6 LS3's rear.



I agree, but in all fairness we just don't know for sure if it was some bad wheel hop and/or that sort of 'hook-spin hard-hook again' sequence that is typical of sticky, stiff sidewalled road race/autocross tires that's causing these breakages.
I'd like to know how many people have broken their rears while using PROPER drag radials or D.O.T. legal street slicks. And also how many have broken while still on stock/OEM tires as well. That would tell us if it's a 'weak rear' issue or simply a poor tire choice.

Zip Corvettes

Slipping the clutch is a bad idea. Did you turn off your torque managemenet in the ECU?

tblu92

Well that all depends on how serious you are about the semi-pro drag racing---if you are--and not concerned about the$$$ of breaking parts--and making the car hook up the best---then 10-12 PSI will give you the fastest 60' times--However such an extreme hard launch can break parts--If you wanna save your diff yeah run 20-25 PSI and it will live --- you may not have the best launch--but it's just bracket racing so Yes I have to agree with the previous poster--running 10-12 PSI is not recommended unless you are willing to risk breaking something--

C7/Z06 Man

This guy knows what he is talking about , he is giving a big secret away for free! A stick may almost be as easy on the drivetrain as an auto using this method and put down the very best times. I did this years ago and when the stick trans case broke in half one weekend at the drag strip after "many" years of drag racing with no breakage what so ever I installed a built 350 turbo trans with a high stall torque converter and proceeded to slow down by two tenths the very next week with better weather conditions to boot running the auto.

PS: If you dump the clutch i.e. shock the drivetrain rears will blow and higher power through more rpms or just more power will take care of the rear/axles in shorter order. Also adds to wheel hop which breaks rears in short order too. Shock is a killer. One suggestion, launch at a rpm for "your" car that doesn't bog nor spins the tires, if you mess up it's better to spin a foot or two. Then proceed down on the gas pedal as fast as possible without breaking traction.

Edit: I also know how to drive/get the best out of automatics.

Greg Quillen

yeah..

DOUG @ ECS

Slip the clutch, not "dump" the clutch. Makes all the difference and usually faster too.