JerryU

Some of the solutions proposed are way too complex in my opinion. You have the same issue as when putting in a CAGS eliminator. Do what the folks do that supply those, put in a resistor of the correct value and wattage to replace the valves! That assumes you only changed the ones at the end as you said you did. Frankly for what you paid BB they should define what is needed (if they didn’t already) and supply two matching connectors with the proper resistors included.
This assumes the air fuel ratio map doesn’t change when the vales are open. Assume the oxygen sensors take care of that small difference. That may not work with headers however and you need a tune. Just my two cents, perhaps only worth that value!

B Stead

Cars use a lot of peripheral processors. They're often not expensive and just cost a couple of dollars. So most of us here probably are not yet sure what's at the muffler valves.

Of course a lot of C7's with NPP are going to change the exhaust and so this needs to be figured out.

Well, there's a subject of adding NPP to a non-NPP C7. There's a subject of changing the details of the NPP operation. There's a subject of disabling the AFM so that it does not turn off the NPP sound. And there's a subject of taking the NPP off the C7
.

Theta

I'm not going to take offense to this because I'm going to assume you're not an electrical engineer, nor do you know about the system we're dealing with.

This is not a 'resistor trick' situation this time around.

Side note - we have another thread going with several EEs trying to figure this out in depth.

JerryU

Thanks for your assumption. Couple degrees in Mechanical Engineering but not an EE! Always appears simplier when you don't know how!

JerryU

Want to be sure no one reading my foolish suggestion thought the solution was that easy! I have also been chuckling all morning as I installed my oil catch can, at your very polite response! My total useless solution reminded me of my old boos when I managed and R&D lab. A brilliant physicist, he had the original patents for plasma cutting etc. and was responsible for three diverse labs. One designed large CNC thermal cutting machines, another welding equipment and mine developing welding filler materials, shielding gases and fluxes. He could not have known all the technologies. He would make a comment like my simplistic incorrect one but always ended with “or something.” Had to remind my new engineers not to point out the errors of his foolish suggestion since we were being paid to understand and develop the “or something!” He was a WWII Naval Officer and used some pretty salty language. He had a number of sarcastic sayings when he observed something irrational being done, such as “You’re solving a problem not known to exist using a method known not to work!” Great boss.
In my small part time business Tenneco is a significant user of a product used to weld OEM exhaust systems. I saw the NPP exhaust actuators were being made by them using motors not the old off-on vacuum actuators that were in my ’08, C6. Should have realized these were probably stepper motors or something (note the use of “or something” to cover everything possible.) In addition they are no doubt getting feedback of some sort to know if they are responding. Today with micro’s being so inexpensive they probably have software driving the system and there are no doubt some complex loops for not so obvious reasons! GM is unlikely to share the program!
I’m sure the capable folks working on the solution will figure it out!

Theta

Jerry, I'm sorry you took it that way... Both were assumptions, but we all know the old story about assuming.

Anyone that has knowledge of the CCM and the way it works in this system would know that a resistor trick of any type is laughable, hence the skeptical nature of my reply.

There are several of us 'capable folks' working on the BCM (and have been for over 6 months) - we're just now starting to get involved with the CCM. It's far worse than anything in the past, to be honest.

Bottom line, a $10 PWM circuit may provide enough of a solution for now, but it needs testing.

JerryU

I did not take the comment negatively at all! I thought your response was very appropriate and polite! I was serious, I was chucking thinking about my old boss, now deceased, heck I’m 71! He had many sayings, as I mentioned all very appropriate for the moment, like “Do whatever needs to be done-if anything!” As I ended my original post, “Just my two cents, perhaps only worth that value!”
When I bought my CAGS defeat system I was concerned because some of the prominent suppliers were saying they tried and their system dropped error codes! The company I finally bought from, when I asked if they were sure their system would not trip codes, said they were also concerned since they are using the same resistor they used for the C6 and had no problems. They also wondered why the others had withdrawn their product from the market! In fact the Viper using the same trans and skip shift has not been able to use that simple solution since the Viper system apparently has some solenoid activation detection ability. Fortunately the Vette does not!
I have also wondered about the C7 electrical system since October when I taped into the vanity mirror power for my radar detector. Had done that on my ’87 and ’93 (for the '08 wired into the center mirror.) It tripped a circuit breaker. After checking my wiring and several duplicate trips I wired in the rear fuse panel. Later someone posted that their dealer was replacing a cracked center mirror cover and he asked them to bring out power for his radar detector. He posted that when the dealer called GM they were told the wires are not “tap friendly.” May explain why I had difficulty.

Theta

Oh, good! I was afraid I had offended you, which wasn't my intention.

Eventually we'll have it cracked and able to just be turned on and off via a JTAG or some such (most likely not via OBD/CAN since Bosch nixed that back in early 2012 across the board).

For now, lots of silly options, but it makes for an interesting process.

owc6

I'm going to throw my experience with getting Bullets installed in here. Had them installed by Maryland Speed on 11 June. A moment to give them kudos for a great job!

During the install, there were certainly a lot of questions; the instructions were murky, and Mike at B&B had no real answers. The upshot was to zip-tie the rear actuators to the car and hope for the best. If it threw a code, then we would address it at that point. The good news is I have put 4000 miles on the car since then, and no codes!

These pictures show where and how they were tied up.

Theta

LOL - I love it!

If it doesn't work, make it work. That's honestly what I would do - remove the actuators and keep the sensors plugged in. No rear worries after that.

Preferred

I have the same problem. Was told to reset the the error code. For what the system cost I thought they would work without problems!

thrilled

I had thought if I had got the NPP and wanted to add some after market sounds that I would have problems.So I have non NPP.Looking to get B+B on it.

MikeK

I've been watching this thread and scratching my head. I have a 2014 Z51 A6 w/NPP. I received my car on 3/17 and the VIN is 124XX. I've set the exhaust sound to OFF and pulled the two wiring connectors to the NPP valves. Absolutely no CEL and the system will still activate AFM under low load and around 1700 RPM in D5 or D6. Putting it into manual/paddle will eliminate AFM.

I am surprised that the OP is having an NPP CEL if he never had NPP to begin with. I suspect that the problem probably lies with the AFM connections. B&B systems for the C7 (Bullets or Fusion) are supposed to have AFM valves. The NPP type valves located on the leaving gas side of the 'mufflers' (if present on the fusion system) should not set off any CEL's if not connected. Has the OP connected wiring to the AFM valves?

owc6

The OP did have NPP.

n8dogg

Like others have mentioned, you need the NPP actuators to remain connected to the harness and secure them out of the way with enough room for the actuators to fully turn. You should also be able to tune the code out of the PCM if you're having it dyno tuned.

Preferred

I am confused. I had the original 4 valves on the original system. The billy boat replacement system has the 4 valves. The actuators have been removed from the original systems and place on the new system. All wiring have been connected. Wanted this system because I still wanted to control the sound.

Does any member on this form have any items on what I need to do to enjoy the system that I paid for? Or am I stuck with something that does not work as sold and could cause damage to my vehicle?

Preferred

This is ideas on what I need to do.

n8dogg

This thread is in reference to installing the B&B Bullet system on a NPP car. Sounds like you went with the Fusion system which works with the factory NPP actuators.

fredmills

I have a base car without NPP. How will a B&B fusion set up work. Any control of the sound?

Theta

The Fusion setup is only meant for NPP-equipped cars.

There was another thread made to get a non-NPP car working with an NPP system, but it requires quite a bit of effort (and still will not be controlled by the computer, etc). The PWM stepper would also need to be affixed and wired to control position, etc.

You may be better served by electronic low-profile cutouts with wireless control unless you really are dead-set on the Fusion and purchasing the NPP valves and supporting modifications.