Theta

Got held up on a few different parts. Thankfully, Jegs will be able to fill them by Friday.

I have the entire parts list compiled, but I want to check with LMR first to make sure I'm not doubling up on a few things.

LMR, sending you an e-mail.

0Cunningham Motorsports

very nice piece there...

Late Model Racecraft

Hope my guys have answered any of your questions. Please call shop if you have any more. Guys, I would definitely recommend this system or ANY other system for that matter on boosted LT1 engines.

Theta

Actually, a few things were waiting on the crew to get back from the event before they could be answered. I have a full parts list ready to go (along with pictures, etc) for everybody who wants to duplicate my setup, but I needed to get a reply on the e-mail about the incorrect hose ends sent with the breather.

With the straight -10AN hose ends, the lines hit the blower - no two ways about it. In the pics, the correct fittings are -10AN 45-degree hose ends. I sourced the correct hose ends (-10AN 45-degree) from Jegs, but before I listed those on the required/recommended parts list, I wanted to get in touch with somebody there and see if it was just a shipping mistake.

Here are a few pics (straight on left, correct 45-deg on right) to show what I mean in case I didn't make any sense...

Theta

Here are some of the 'final' pics. Getting it buttoned up before finishing the SC install. Lots of extra time and pieces getting everything looking 'just right'. Still had to touch up the inevitable nicks in the hose ends from the wrenches.

Swath

This begs the question, is LMR going to change the straights for 45 degree fittings on all the kits going forward?

Theta

I believe so. I was just contacted by Jay who will be sending out the 45-degree fittings.

Late Model Racecraft

The kit was designed on our twin turbo car. This is why it had straights there instead of 45's. Supercharged cars will need 45's and we have made changes to the kit to accommodate that. All our kits now will be including 45's instead of straight hose ends. Sean, Sorry for the inconvenience, i hope Jay got you squared away like i told him to do.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

~Reid Sanders

runutzzzzz

Looks like a work of art!

So why is this needed / recommended on FI cars?

slief

Very nice Theta!!! I love the black lines! That is a great touch! That breather can would have been really nice in a black anodize too!

Theta

I'm actually thinking about getting it anodized, but not sure about a) where to get it done, or b) what method to use to cover the barbs and filter outlets.

Parts list coming a bit later - on a phone at the moment.

slief

I did a quick cursory search in your area. Here are some local options in St Louis for you. As far as what to do about the threads/barbs and filter outlets. Nothing. Coat them too. I'd bet you could get that thing turned around in a day and cheap too assuming that one of them are doing a black anodize run.
http://www.archwayanodize.com/

http://www.dynacraft-inc.com/

http://www.archmetal.com/

http://www.jerrysmetalfinishing.com/services.html

Swath

Question for LMR, any chance you can offer anodized as an option when ordering?

Theta

This relieves the crank case pressure which builds up with FI and is already causing seals to leak, etc.

It also replaces the car's PCV system and acts as a giant catch can for blowby gasses and oil buildup that we're already seeing a problem with in our cars.

Essentially, it kills two birds with one stone.

Skunkworks

If you’re super picky, then anodizing may not be for you. The welds will show up as a different shade. I can post pick of my intercooler that was anodized black, I did it for corrosion resistance though. Powder coating will be better choice if you want uniform finish.

Theta

Thank you! That was going to be my next question but I wasn't sure if it was a dumb question (dissimilar metals).

I think powder coating is the best bet - I've had ICs powder coated and they turned out great. The only worry I would have would be buildup in the logo weld, but I think it should be okay.

It also may be easier to find a powder coating company close(r) to me.

Thanks for that list, slief! I called 2 and no luck, but 1 did actually suggest powder coating instead.

Theta

Alright, as promised, here is an optional list for general dress-up.

You can see that the kit comes with Pro 350 braided -10AN hose, but only includes standard Gates rubber hose for the -6AN connections. As LMR posted earlier, the 45-degree -10AN hose ends are now standard, so they have been left off of this list.

On the other end, you will need a T or Y adapter to split between the oil reservoir and the passenger-side rocker PCV fitting - you could use a cheap 3/8" T adapter and use clamps, etc. - I did that at first, but I wanted it to be dressier, as it's a nice showpiece.

For reference, this is for a supercharged C7, not turbocharged. These are all Jegs part numbers:

555-110312 | -6AN Flare Cap | $4.69 | Qty: 1



361-AT982406 | -6AN AnoTuff T Fitting | $13.99 | Qty: 1



555-110001 | -6AN Straight Hose End | $5.99 | Qty: 3



555-103301 | #6 Hose Finisher | $5.99 | Qty: 2



555-110011 | -6AN 45-Degree Hose End | $15.99 | Qty: 1



555-110911 | ProFlo 350 Braided Hose -6AN 6-Foot | $31.99 | Qty: 1




Total part cost is $96.61 shipped from Jegs. Up to you on the value side of things, but the improvement in looks, alone, was enough to spend the extra money.

Keep in mind that even if you don't go this route, you will need to source a T-line and hose or fuel clamps.

And finally, a diagrammed look at these parts...

Theta

He sure did, thanks Reid!

To anybody wondering what the means: LMR refunded me what I paid to Jegs for the two 45-degree -10AN fittings ($40) since it was easier than swapping them out.

And perhaps down the road I'll get a sticker and/or T-shirt out of it.

Skunkworks

You’ll be fine with powder coating, what it does fill in will actually make it look better. It’s not like they will deposit 1/8 of an inch. Look at your supercharger volute, for reference on a slight wrinkle/textured finish.

I wouldn’t powder coat an intercooler as it will inhibit thermal transfer. On the other hand, anodizing microscopically etches surface, which some believe increases thermal transfer due to additional surface area and turbulence – this was my reasoning along with corrosion resistance. Also quality core manufacturers like Bell do a mild natural anodize after oven brazing.

Oh, I’d ask for a semi-gloss lightly textured finish, hides imperfections if powder coating.

runutzzzzz

What's the difference between this and a catch can?