mr1mike2001

I’m new to the post and a fairly new C7 owner. Tonight I was on the freeway cruising at 70 car lost all acceleration push on the gas and nothing happening. I was able to get over to the shoulder and stopped. All electrical worked but the car wouldn’t turn back over. Sputtered a few times before it went into a lock out like what not having a functioning starter would do. Apologies if issues like this have happened and I didn’t search well enough but I’m a bit on the screaming for some past experience help. Car has 70,000 miles. Oil was fine. I tried to get in to turn the crank manually but caught the steering rack in place. Any troubleshooting help y’all could provide. Hoping it’s not a new engine.

Vette Jockey

Was there any cranking, screeching, or clanging before you lost power? Or, was it running, and then it was not? We need more details on the symptoms.

C7's are kind of finicky when the battery is going. 2017 and 70,000 miles, woujd make me look at the battery first.

Tell us everything you heard, saw, and felt when it happened.

Pineapple

Easiest thing to check first is electrical. Put it on a tender or swap out the battery. If that doesn't work check fuses. If it's not electrical, you should be able to pull codes to see what happened.

449er

I doubt that the engine would give up the ghost without some kind of warning noise or sound

mr1mike2001

No indication that anything was going out. Oil pressure was good. No noises heard and no wild smells. Driving at 70mph and the engine just lost power. When I was trying to start it back up it was really sluggish and didn’t want to turn all the way over. I’ll get out this morning and look at the electrical

lassie

You can check coolant to see if any oil is in there.

69 L46 4 Speed

If you were driving after dark and the battery was under full load, it could be your alternator or battery or a combination of both.

Tinkertech

From your description it does not sound good.

Appears that some thing locked up on the engine.

I sincerely hope not.

joeking

I am guessing it's the battery. These engines can fail however just driving at a regular speed and not racing the engine would lead me to believe something electrical failed.

etaylor14

Sounds like the battery. the injectors need 9 volts to fire below that the engine won't run. would account for the engine dying and slow cranking.

96GS#007

Given that the car was driving down the highway when it died, I'll take the minority opinion and state it's unlikely it's the battery is the primary cause. During operation, the alternator provides the voltage to the system. However....A failing alternator would mean that the battery was not being charged and with no alternator, the battery *is* supplying power to the car....until the battery dies.

I'd pull the alternator and have it checked. Before you do that, as someone mentioned, attempt a quick jump start if for no other reason than to see if the engine turns over. If the engine does not turn over, there are bigger problems. If it does (and perhaps starts).....back to the alternator and (now dead) battery being the culprits.

Btw....any codes stored?

Punisher44

I'm going with bad alternator causing battery to drain. Reason for this is no noise prior or after when trying to start. Only issue was sluggish turn over which is no juice in the battery. I mean 70000 miles alternator could be shot. Curious to see what it is.

mr1mike2001

P0324, P0326. Tried the jump engine wouldn’t even turn. Trying to see if I can get something on the crank bolt to manually turn to verify if it’s seized. Sad day today….

Racer1735

Sounds electrical to me. Car is drive-by-wire, so could be anywhere between the accelerator pedal and the injectors. I did have a vehicle 'lock up' its engine (ironically, a GM product), and it didn't give any 'last-seconds-of-life' noises. Rather, the vehicle felt as if the brakes were being applied heavily and the engine revs fell lower and lower, even while I pressed the accelerator. When the car was towed to a shop, they couldn't even turn the crank with a wrench. Having said all that, I still lean towards electrics.....alternator first, resulting in a drained battery second.

Racer1735

When you try to turn the crank, remember to pull a few spark plugs. Compression is high enough that it will be very difficult to do with all eight in their holes.

unclecookie

Those 2 codes appear to be knock sensor codes.

mr1mike2001

Apologies I did leave out one important key maybe someone in here has heard of. While driving I’ll lost the power to accelerate. Foot on pedal with any pressure and no feedback from the engine. Just had to coast over to the shoulder. No drop in oil pressure no metal clanking.

96GS#007

Pull the plugs on the driver's side since those are easy to access
Try to spin the engine by via the crank pulley. Might want to remove the accessory belt just to get rid of more drag and to see if the alternator spins freely. Also make sure the car is in neutral (manual transmission) or Park (or neutral) if it's an automatic.

The knock sensor codes are concerning.

Any mods?

If it's a wet sump car, you're talking 5qts of oil. Might be worth draining it to see if you have any glitter.

pewter99

how ya get it home?? flatbed?

mr1mike2001

Flatbed. Also Z51 so a little more oil.