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Just fill the hole on the door that the pin goes into. This was one of the first things I did when I got mine home from Kerbeck's. I used a self-locking plastic pin and snipped off the extra length after installed.
I have no idea what Chevrolet was thinking about, when, they did not put a mechanical release in the trunk, like they did in the C6.
I agree, having a manual release does give some peace of mind. So, for that reason and because I did not want to give up the locking feature, several years ago, I installed a manual release for the fuel door.
The red wire to release the door travels from the compartment in the rear hatch to the fuel door latching arm. Pulling the ring pops the door open. I've never needed it...yet.
I agree, having a manual release does give some peace of mind. So, for that reason and because I did not want to give up the locking feature, several years ago, I installed a manual release for the fuel door.
The red wire to release the door travels from the compartment in the rear hatch to the fuel door latching arm. Pulling the ring pops the door open. I've never needed it...yet.
i am missing some background info.
what is causing the locking pin to fail and not open?
thx
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe
Excellent question. ^^^
It's a plastic arm actuated by some electric servo. When the car locks/ unlocks it moves the plastic locking arm into or out of the fuel door plug. It fails because it is an easy to reach item that has a relatively low MTBF (mean time before failure).
I agree, having a manual release does give some peace of mind. So, for that reason and because I did not want to give up the locking feature, several years ago, I installed a manual release for the fuel door.
The red wire to release the door travels from the compartment in the rear hatch to the fuel door latching arm. Pulling the ring pops the door open. I've never needed it...yet.
That’s perfect! Please share the process you used to do this mod.
That’s perfect! Please share the process you used to do this mod.
Unfortunately, I did not document the process very well. I was positive other CF members had posted about doing this modification several years ago, but my search found nothing. I admit I have some struggles using the CF search feature.
To get started, I removed the left rear wheel and the wheel well liner. With the liner out of the way, I could access the fuel door actuator and locking rod along with the storage compartment on the left side of the hatch area.
This photo shows how I routed the release cable from the compartment. I drilled a hole in the compartment, installed a gromment and clear plastic tubing for the release cable to travel through. From the release cable, I used 10-guage electrical wire for no particular reason except it is what I had readily available.
This photo shows the release cable from the storage compartment, routed along the bottom of the cooling air duct.
This photo has the final routing to the fuel door locking rod. On the left, you can see the loop around the locking rod.
And this is the pull ring in the storage compartment.
Each end of the cable is looped. (I soldered and crimped the loops to ensure these would not pull loose).
I did the installation about 3-years ago and so far, no issues with it.
12-15-2023, 10:58 PM
