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Hello all,
i just am wondering how many of you have installed a triple s monster clutch in your c7. I read alot of good and chose to purchase through T.S.P. nowhere in the discription did i see that if you need to use the .450" billet shim that comes with it that you need to have your bellhousing milled open a good amount for the bleeder and the hydrolic line elbow fit. Here i spent like 2200. For a clutch that the merchant is not saying or is not aware of the fact you need to mutilate your factory bellhousing. I think its wrong its not a couple thousands its a big milling process that was never mentioned until the manufacturer brought to my attention. Just wondering how many people may have known this and never put it out there i would have bought a different clutch had i known. The rep at T.S.P. basically said thats my fault for not checking with the manufacturer. Well i read there discription of it since i was buying it through them and its not mentioned anywhere that i know of.
I am in the process of installing a upgrade clutch on mine (Not a monster) and I am also upgrading my slave cylinder too. You just want to ensure you have enough clearance. They are know as A-B measurements. Tick performance has a pretty good youtube video explaining it.
I dont get why you would need to mill out the bellhousing? I have my new slave cylinder installed and the replacement connector and bleed fit through that window fine. I wouldnt connecting or installing more than bolting up till you confirm your clearance.
I bought the clutch it comes with a new slave the bolts i also bought the bilit spring guide to replace the plastic one in the gm slave its been said they fail under heat and hard driving so i upgraded along with a speed bleeder. They send a shim with the clutch and its like 0.450 thick i took my readings like there suppose to be taken l think it was
A=2.360
B=1.415
ITS BEEN A WHILE SINCE i have used any inspection tools but i can still use them my math is rusty so i used the calculator in my phone and it looked to me that i was a .095" which would be great. But i wanted to ŕun by monsters tech.dept. i was told by those numbers i have a gap of.950 almost 1" so i should use the .450 shim and if you push your slave that far forward you cant bolt the bellhousing back to the torque tube or the bleeder and line will be in the way so you have to mill it out. I have a factory crank block slave why do i need so much shim. Thought maybe this guy is not reading the results correctly now i have to try and get new readings off the trow out bearing and do the math again i cant see why i though i had .095 without the shim. Can someone subtract B from A and tell me what you get.
I would confirm that he doesn’t have the measures swapped and that he is measuring the slave not fully retracted. I would assume with a triple disk, you would almost want a shorter slave cylinder.
i don’t know if it is true. I had a buddy tell me that the triple disc hangs off so far it is off the back that it is a tough install.
Call monster and see if they can confirm. If that is the case, I would probably go with a different setup. I wouldn’t cut the bell housing.
No we went back and forth yesterday it got a bit ugly at one point. He was given pic's of my slave collapsed no spring bleeder or boot fully seated in the slave body and pic's of the clutch on the engine he said it all look right. Really it dont stick out that far it dont have the factory flywheel on it now it has a billit 1 piece the factory has a dual i forget what its called but its 2 pieces. The monster flywheel is counter sunk for the 1st disc then a floater another disc some straps fingers are nice and flat seems like a nice clutch . Oh factory flywheel is a dual mass.
Out of curiosity, is he measuring from the clutch to the engine block or are you mounting the bell housing and measuring to the back side.
I am measuring using the engine bellhousing surface on the block as the reference for both. Tick recommend using the back side of the bellhousing that mounts to the torque tube but I should get the same measurements the way I am doing it. I will let you know what the largest shim I got in my tick shim kit when I get home.
I ended up taking the bell housing off the torque tube it wass easier to measure the fingers off the back of the bellhousing. Ani measured from the top of the throw out to the torque tube flange that mates to the bell housing. You are right the tech said i would need another shim on top of that were talking over a 1/2" of shims i may scrap it and run the factory one it only has 11000 miles on it. I pulled the engine to put forged pistons and rods, cam and d.o.d. and hedders meth. I can just keep the power lower and be fine i am an old man anyway its not like i am tracking it.
Yea i did subtract the thickness of the scale it was .080" its tough to get a consistant reading off the throw out i am holding the scale thes calipers and trying to keep the bearing from tilting i an going to grind the 3 .030" speed bumps off my old bearing face and see if a hose clamp will steady the throw out and do it again without the shim.
Well i rechecked my numbers today witout the .450 shim that came in the kit. And i have a gap of 0.950 the shim i have is 0.450 so i need to buy more shims to get the gap to 0.100 - 0.200 they call for. And grind away on the bell housing for clearence for the bleeder and fluid line. Either do that or sell it for best offer and put the stock clutch back in with a new upgraded slave just keep my power level lower.
If you don't track the car, the ZR1 was 755hp. Perhaps switch to the Z clutch and retain all the street manners of the factory setup? I have to believe GM has some margin built in and it'd be good for 800hp - 850hp. You don't make any mention of a SC but you do mention meth. Is the car supercharged? What hp levels are you at?
I do track mine and have the RPS Billet Carbon Twin Disk Clutch and aluminum flywheel. ~45lbs lighter than OEM and revs nicely but it's pretty noisy in neutral with the clutch out. It takes a few extra revs to get the car moving from a stop but you adapt to that pretty quickly and it becomes quite natural.
I have an A&A ti head on a stock exhaust and engine tuner said it should be 550- 575 on a conservative tune. Engine only has 11000 miles 2018 grand sport but i did a dod delete pushrods springs trunnions lifters lt4 stage 1 blower cam speced by pat G. I put in a katech red face pump J.E. foged pistins TSP H beam rods made a soft fuel line -6an with high flo check valve pulked the screen fiter out of the LT1 HPFP put a 100 micron inline just before the hpfp. Its been said once you remove the restriction in the fuel line it has been said it can carry 72psi on the low side and 3000psi on the high side to red line i hope so lol i have LT4 INJECTORS THe cam has a 32% fuel lobe i checked it with a .060 lash cap all is well. Meth alky 1 10lb jet relocate iat to manifold. Was going to go for 750-800at the wheel.
Ok the Tech. Is correct and has been very helpfull but i do need like a .600" shim just to have a gap of .160 which is between the .100-.200 gap they like to see for the throw out bearing. I believe monster has to machine one for me because they have a step in them that keeps the centered. I just dont like having to grind on the back face of the bell housing or having to pay like 130.00 or more for an additional .150 spacer to add to the .450 that came with the kit. The clut is made for the c7 and cost plenty it should have everthing it needs to work but this is life. So just a little info for you guys that do your own work keep this in mind. And dont try and stack flat shims in there you may have big problems if your slave goes off center. Got to love it. Time to install meth while i wait for a shim.
06-27-2023, 04:33 PM
Monster triple s clutches
