C7 ramps for oil change
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C7 ramps for oil change
Hey guys,.
what ramps are tou using for Grand Sport or Z06 for just doing oil changes?
Looked at my neighbors quickjack but not sure it is worth the money for mainly oil changes once a year.
Thank you,
what ramps are tou using for Grand Sport or Z06 for just doing oil changes?
Looked at my neighbors quickjack but not sure it is worth the money for mainly oil changes once a year.
Thank you,
#2
Race Director
I drive up on to race ramps.
Then I jack up each rear corner, sliding my old rhino ramps under the rear tires.
I then put blocks on the tires.
Up on 4 ramps, I proceed with my oil change.
Then I jack up each rear corner, sliding my old rhino ramps under the rear tires.
I then put blocks on the tires.
Up on 4 ramps, I proceed with my oil change.
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#3
Le Mans Master
In the past, I have just jacked up one side to pull the pan plug before dropping it level to drain before raising it again to change the filter. I think I will try shortening the angle on my plastic Harbor Freight ramps with a couple pieces of 2 X 6 next time.
#4
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I have been using Rhino Ramps. A little cumbersome as I jack up one front wheel and place te ramp under the tire, then repeat on the other side. Removal is just the reverse. Conidering the cost difference between Rhino Ramps and products like Race Ramps, I will do the extra work (maybe 10 minutes longer). But, in all fairness, Race Ramps are an outstanding product and from what I understand, you can just drive up on them.
#5
Race Ramps are excellent, but expensive.
#6
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There are cheaper options out there, but Race Ramps are an excellent product
#7
Melting Slicks
I agree that for a once-a-year oil change the cost of a QuickJack is excessive. However, if you think you'll ever want to have the car lifted off the ground to remove all four wheels, the QuickJack is ideal for that.
We have one that we used on a '72 we previously owned. If we didn't already own one, I don't know that I'd buy one just for oil changes.
We have one that we used on a '72 we previously owned. If we didn't already own one, I don't know that I'd buy one just for oil changes.
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#10
Melting Slicks
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#11
Drifting
I use 2 jacks and then 2 stands. I jack one side at the front puck to get it high enough to be able to get the other jack and it's 2x6 board to the center of the subframe cross member. Then I jack high enough to do the oil change. I put 2 stands at the front puck locations and barely lower the jack so there is just enough pressure on the stands that I won't knock one out of the way as I roll around under the car. I have a full size aluminum jack as my main jack and a couple of the small HF aluminum jacks that I got when they had a sale and I also had a coupon.
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#13
Last edited by RiCorvette; 10-28-2022 at 12:56 PM.
#14
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I've a mildly sloped driveway so I use a pair of long (2-piece) Race Ramps which make the car level. Work perfectly!
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#18
Race Director
I don't use ramps, as can't justify cost, space they take up to store in garage, or time/effort to make them. I just use a floor jack and jack stand, perfectly safe and takes a little less than 30 minutes for complete oil change. Changing Oil:
Can use one jack pad, jack and one jack stand and still get the last drop!
1) Jack up just the driver’s side, install jack stand.
2) Remove the drain plugs (2 plugs/GM part# 11562588) over a large 15 quart, low profile drain pan ($10 @ Advanced Auto).
3) Raise car slightly; remove jack stand.
4) Lower car with both drain plugs open and pan in place. Fully drains all oil from the side plug and front drain plug in dry sump.
5) Raise car, reinstall jack stand and put plugs back.
6) Remove and install new oil filter (AC PF64/12706595), remove jack stand and lower car, fill with 9.0 quarts Mobil1 ESP 0w-40 Dexos2 oil and reset OCM. You can check oil and add part of 10th quart to bring to full, however 9 quarts will fill to approx. center of hash marks which is to specification.
AC Delco made some changes to the PF64. The old version, part number12640445 was a little longer, changed to 12696048, is a little shorter and now the current GM #12706595.
Resetting the OCM (Oil Change Monitor)
Scroll down to oil life remaining on the DIC (Driver Information Center, left control on the steering wheel) and press and hold the Set/Reset button.
Can use one jack pad, jack and one jack stand and still get the last drop!
1) Jack up just the driver’s side, install jack stand.
2) Remove the drain plugs (2 plugs/GM part# 11562588) over a large 15 quart, low profile drain pan ($10 @ Advanced Auto).
3) Raise car slightly; remove jack stand.
4) Lower car with both drain plugs open and pan in place. Fully drains all oil from the side plug and front drain plug in dry sump.
5) Raise car, reinstall jack stand and put plugs back.
6) Remove and install new oil filter (AC PF64/12706595), remove jack stand and lower car, fill with 9.0 quarts Mobil1 ESP 0w-40 Dexos2 oil and reset OCM. You can check oil and add part of 10th quart to bring to full, however 9 quarts will fill to approx. center of hash marks which is to specification.
AC Delco made some changes to the PF64. The old version, part number
Resetting the OCM (Oil Change Monitor)
Scroll down to oil life remaining on the DIC (Driver Information Center, left control on the steering wheel) and press and hold the Set/Reset button.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 10-29-2022 at 07:45 PM.
#19
Melting Slicks
I'll be changing the oil in ours for the first time in a few weeks. Already have the oil and filter.
After the initial fill with 9 quarts, how much time, if any, is needed before checking the level to add any remaining amount? Also, is it necessary to run the engine to 175 degree oil? And if so, I'm guessing I should wait 8 minutes before checking the level?
After the initial fill with 9 quarts, how much time, if any, is needed before checking the level to add any remaining amount? Also, is it necessary to run the engine to 175 degree oil? And if so, I'm guessing I should wait 8 minutes before checking the level?
#20
Race Director
I'll be changing the oil in ours for the first time in a few weeks. Already have the oil and filter.
After the initial fill with 9 quarts, how much time, if any, is needed before checking the level to add any remaining amount? Also, is it necessary to run the engine to 175 degree oil? And if so, I'm guessing I should wait 8 minutes before checking the level?
After the initial fill with 9 quarts, how much time, if any, is needed before checking the level to add any remaining amount? Also, is it necessary to run the engine to 175 degree oil? And if so, I'm guessing I should wait 8 minutes before checking the level?
Checking Oil:
1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading, warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). Cold oil will not give a correct oil level reading.
2. Once the engine is warm, turn off the engine. Checking the oil while the engine is running will result in an incorrect oil level reading.
3. Wait at least five minutes (but not more than 10 minutes) to allow oil to drain and settle in the engine.
4. Remove the dipstick from the external engine oil tank and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth. Re-insert the dipstick into the external oil tank,
pushing it all the way in until it stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil tank and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.
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