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I'm sure no one has seen a tech torque an oil drain plug with a torque wrench. I never have. I have had more than one instance where it was tight and I didn't want to strip it so I jacked it up and with the right angle, it was fine.
Good luck with that. When you see someone breaking out a torque wrench for an oil drain plug, Corvette or ordinary car, snap a few pictures and let us know.
Good then keep your head in the sand and let them continue to torque the crap out of it,lol........If you don't say something they are going to keep doing it; the drain plug you save may be your own ,lol
Good then keep your head in the sand and let them continue to torque the crap out of it,lol........If you don't say something they are going to keep doing it; the drain plug you save may be your own ,lol
I watch until I am comfortable with the tech. Regardless, I have yet to see a tech use a torque wrench. Have you?
im doing my first oil change this week since getting the car in nov 2020 (yes overdue but oil life says it has some % left, sad to say but havent drove it much at all and it stays in garage), hoping the last person didnt use an impact on those poor bolts , also will see about the oil filter. have had some rough ones in the past on friends cars where we pretty much have to destroy the filter to get off. ill be doing transmission and rear end fluid at the same time, using my quickjack.
I found some 2x12's at my brothers house that didn't look like he needed. Made my own ramps, kinda heavy though, and put the right amount of step up so the air dams didn't get damaged.
I took my old 78 vette to a quik change place for an oil change and asked if they could check my differential oil level. The young tech thought being his impact driver didn't fit under the car, he would just put the plug back in crooked (instead of starting the plug with his fingers) with teflon putty all over it. He had the manager with him while he was doing it and both of them lied and said there was no problem. I re-tapped the pipe plug threads when I got home.
I get mine level when I change the oil but it's not that big of a deal. If it is difficult for one to get it level do the best you can. Let's say at worst you leave 1 qt in the engine. That is 1/9 or 11% so you did an 89% oil change. It won't kill the engine.
On my wet sump C7, it's the difference of about a half quart of oil if I do the oil change with it just having the front end up on ramps, vs a completely flat oil change. I've never really worried too much about that little bit extra old oil on any car I've owned though, as I know I'm not going to get every last drop of oil out no matter what I do. And I'm not pushing my oil to the point where it's unserviceable anyway, so that "old" oil is still in decent shape. When you end up with 85-90% new oil afterwards, the engine really won't know the difference. We're really splitting hairs here, very few people on here are going to put 200,000+ miles on their C7s and even if they did I'm sure it wouldn't make a difference either way. So if you can do a flat oil change and it's not too much hassle, by all means go for it, but don't add needless labor to your oil change if you're thinking it's the secret to the engine lasting forever.
I found some 2x12's at my brothers house that didn't look like he needed. Made my own ramps, kinda heavy though, and put the right amount of step up so the air dams didn't get damaged.
I took my old 78 vette to a quik change place for an oil change and asked if they could check my differential oil level. The young tech thought being his impact driver didn't fit under the car, he would just put the plug back in crooked (instead of starting the plug with his fingers) with teflon putty all over it. He had the manager with him while he was doing it and both of them lied and said there was no problem. I re-tapped the pipe plug threads when I got home.
A decent low-profile floor jack from Harbor Freight is $130. Jack up the front, using the hydraulic jack at centerpoint. Place two jack stands under front jack points. Drain oil. Using the hydraulic jack at the rear center-point, jack up the rear to level. Let the remaining oil drain. Replace drain plugs. Lower rear. using the hydraulic jack, remove front jackstands. Done.
I dont know how you guys get far enough under the car with just rhino ramps or by jacking up just 1 side. I tried both methods and could not get far enough underneath to do it properly. One problem was that the fukkkin dealer over torqued the drain plug on the last free oil change so i could not get enough leverage to break it loose even with a pipe extender - could feel the nut starting to strip. Took it to my buddy with a lift so I could get proper leverage. Maybe it is easier if the bolts and filter are properly torqued but not much room under there
Yeah, there's not a ton of clearance with the side lift method, but the time saved is worth it to me for the slight extra tedium. Also helps if you're skinny and have long arms.
It does drain nicely with the pan tilted toward the drain plug.
05-08-2022, 06:54 PM
, also will see about the oil filter. have had some rough ones in the past on friends cars where we pretty much have to destroy the filter to get off. ill be doing transmission and rear end fluid at the same time, using my quickjack.
