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I have been doing my own oil changes since I bought my first C7. Back in 2015 the torque spec, if interested, was 22 ft-lb. Since I have a nice low-range torque wrench, I always torqued to this. Never had a problem at all. But that was about 3 versions of PF64 ago. . . So last year I put in my PF64 with the same torque--big mistake! FYI, It looks like the new spec is about 7 ft.lb. My guess is that they went to a softer rubber on the gasket. This is fine, but at 22 ft. lb it gets too compressed.
RIP PF 64
So this year I had a problem. My standard wrench did not work. Next try was an ice pick. Then a Phillips screwdriver, which bent. Then a large flat screwdriver which tore the metal. Finally, a big-*** Channelock did the trick. Here is the evidence:
Posted this over in OT just for fun, and one post from RollaMo-LT4 indicated a change in spec: "Torque Spec for AC Delco spin on oil filters
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=15777The revised installation specification for all spin-on oil filters PF64, PF63, PF48, PF66, UPF64R, UPF63R, UPF48R and UPF66R is:
Lubricate the new oil filter gasket with clean engine oil.
Install the oil filter one (1) full turn after the gasket makes contact with the sealing surface on the filter mounting flange. If installing with a torque wrench, it should be approximately 10 Nm of torque.
No kidding! Vette on top of my small home lift. No oil, no way other than a flatbed to get to the dealer if I wanted to bail. It did not help that the indentations on the oil filter cap are more shallow, so my cap wrenches that worked great on the previous PF64 just slipped on the new one. Anyway, it ended well.
This same thing happned to me this year. Finally got it off and followed the label on the filter. One full turn after gasket contact instead of the 22 ft-lb of torque.
Good you were able to remove it without too much effort.
Your mistake wasn't torqueing it incorrectly, it was torqueing it as opposed using the below general direction that has pretty much been the standard since spin-on oil filters were introduced back in the 60's.
Every thing you read these days on automotive component assembly states torque this, torque that, however I've been changing my oil in a variety of vehicles for 44 years and never torqued an oil filter or drain plug and have never has a leak.
As a matter of fact all I've ever torqued is head bolts. IMO, for the most part, if someone doesn't have the mechanical intuition to know how much to tightened something, they probably shouldn't be working on it.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 04-23-2022 at 09:06 AM.
No kidding! Vette on top of my small home lift. No oil, no way other than a flatbed to get to the dealer if I wanted to bail. It did not help that the indentations on the oil filter cap are more shallow, so my cap wrenches that worked great on the previous PF64 just slipped on the new one. Anyway, it ended well.
I've had the same experience with my oil filter sockets slipping on different filters. I usually just hold wrench/socket, only when removing, at an angle and it grips filter enough to remove. I'm sure that would not work in your case. I have these for that.
3/4 turn after gasket contact has always worked for me for cars, motorcycles, ATVs, brush mowers, lawn mowers, etc.
Approx 3/4 turn, has always worked for me as well as a full turn can be too tight depending on the specific filter and type/thickness of gasket.
My auto parts stores counter staff were instructed to recommend to those who ask, to start with 3/4 turn after gasket contact, then make sure it 'feels' right.
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Sure glad you were able to finally get the filter off - quite the job from the look of it. I always just tighten the filter about 3/4 turn after gasket contact - seems plenty tight to me.
I just did my GS oil change. The first thing I did was make sure I could loosen the oil filter. Luckily I was able to. On the dry sump the angle of that drain bolt on the side is hard to turn a wrench on (when you don't have the car on a lift). But I got it. Just hooked two wrenches together and used both arms. When I put the new filter on I made sure to oil the rubber gasket and just snug it (I pre-filled the oil filter too). Same with the two drain bolts. They don't need anything more than a good snugging. They have rubber o-rings which provide locking. That 22 ft-lb spec for the filter was loco. I think the drain bolts are 18 ft-lbs and I probably did half that.
I just did my GS oil change. The first thing I did was make sure I could loosen the oil filter. Luckily I was able to. On the dry sump the angle of that drain bolt on the side is hard to turn a wrench on (when you don't have the car on a lift). But I got it. Just hooked two wrenches together and used both arms. When I put the new filter on I made sure to oil the rubber gasket and just snug it (I pre-filled the oil filter too). Same with the two drain bolts. They don't need anything more than a good snugging. They have rubber o-rings which provide locking. That 22 ft-lb spec for the filter was loco. I think the drain bolts are 18 ft-lbs and I probably did half that.
I use a ratcheting wrench for the drain plugs and cup wrench for removing filter, works great.
04-22-2022, 09:21 PM
Oil filter anyone? Today's PSA
Scary moment I bet. Glad u got it off.
