2016 Z51 dead battery - oem replacement
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
2016 Z51 dead battery - oem replacement
Was gone for six weeks and came back to a dead battery. Put a trickle charger on it and will see what happens tomorrow. Hoping for the best, but planning for reality. Most posts I’ve found are a few years old, so ....
Assuming I need a new battery, what is everyone replacing their oem battery with?
TIA
Chris
photo bc she’s pretty.
Assuming I need a new battery, what is everyone replacing their oem battery with?
TIA
Chris
photo bc she’s pretty.
#2
Race Director
This is a very good direct OEM replacement and runs about $135, I believe.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 06-22-2020 at 11:10 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#3
Banned Scam/Spammer
I changed my 2016 2 weeks ago and got it from battery plus .. Its better because its a AGM battery.... which is... better.. also 10% off and get a core charge of 18 back... I got so much extra CCA that its good for another 10 hp!
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#4
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,419
Received 19,434 Likes
on
14,047 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: St. Louis Metro East IL
Posts: 3,005
Received 1,300 Likes
on
861 Posts
A trickle charger may not charge a totally dead battery. Some models need to see some voltage on the battery so proper connection polarity can be verified. A battery charger or a jump may be needed to get a bit of energy in the battery.
If you don't want to stay OEM - Group 48 is the size and you need at least the same 660 CCA rating as the original. I've used NAPA 8448 batteries in 2 vettes and and my DD with no issues. Have any battery you buy tested before you accept it. I've seen a couple dead on the shelf at one of the chain auto parts stores.
Don't forget fob batteries - they are only good for about 3 years. Replace with new, fresh batteries.
Ron
If you don't want to stay OEM - Group 48 is the size and you need at least the same 660 CCA rating as the original. I've used NAPA 8448 batteries in 2 vettes and and my DD with no issues. Have any battery you buy tested before you accept it. I've seen a couple dead on the shelf at one of the chain auto parts stores.
Don't forget fob batteries - they are only good for about 3 years. Replace with new, fresh batteries.
Ron
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,959
Received 2,059 Likes
on
1,367 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
I don't recall the numbers, but if you go for the Delco replacements that most dealers sell, and get the higher quality line; there are two versions of "best".
One has the highest cold cranking amps but less reserve amps, the other has higher reserve but less cold cranking.
The advice I've seen is to get the higher reserve version unless you park your car outside in weather below 0'F. I bought the higher reserve version last month, replacing the OEM that had been in the car for almost 4 years. The original was deader than a doornail when the dealer went to get the car out of storage to sell me, a big charger brought it back to life but I'm surprised it lasted this long.
One has the highest cold cranking amps but less reserve amps, the other has higher reserve but less cold cranking.
The advice I've seen is to get the higher reserve version unless you park your car outside in weather below 0'F. I bought the higher reserve version last month, replacing the OEM that had been in the car for almost 4 years. The original was deader than a doornail when the dealer went to get the car out of storage to sell me, a big charger brought it back to life but I'm surprised it lasted this long.
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 06-23-2020 at 02:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#7
Race Director
I changed my 2016 2 weeks ago and got it from battery plus .. Its better because its a AGM battery.... which is... better.. also 10% off and get a core charge of 18 back... I got so much extra CCA that its good for another 10 hp!
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Holly Springs NC
Posts: 14,387
Received 1,609 Likes
on
1,037 Posts
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
The following users liked this post:
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#9
Burning Brakes
Actually, keeping a tender on them whenever they are not in use, especially for a weekend or every other weekend car, will greatly improve battery life. My 2014 may be living on borrowed time, but it is still OK!
The following 2 users liked this post by jlbruggeman:
jyetman (06-26-2020),
Navy01Coupe (06-23-2020)
#11
If you drive you Corvette at least once a week, a battery will last a very long time. This is because of the location and it is not subject to engine heat. I took my 11 year old Pontiac G8GT in the other day and asked that they test the 7 year old battery. They said that the battery tested good and there was no need to replace. I replaced the first battery at 144K miles just as a precaution, and since that time, I quit traveling in my job and only drive it about 5K miles a year.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Jumped mine and took it in assuming I may need a new one. It tested low, but good. Was told it should last a while if I drive regularly.
I had the service advisor write on the receipt for an hour long drive a week. (I asked him to put 30 min a day, but he just laughed)
I had the service advisor write on the receipt for an hour long drive a week. (I asked him to put 30 min a day, but he just laughed)
#13
Race Director
Jumped mine and took it in assuming I may need a new one. It tested low, but good. Was told it should last a while if I drive regularly.
I had the service advisor write on the receipt for an hour long drive a week. (I asked him to put 30 min a day, but he just laughed)
I had the service advisor write on the receipt for an hour long drive a week. (I asked him to put 30 min a day, but he just laughed)
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
Kevin A Jones (06-25-2020)
#15
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Havasu City Arizona
Posts: 4,194
Likes: 0
Received 302 Likes
on
200 Posts
SoCal Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '12
When dealing with a dead battery, a trickle charge is not the way to go. You need a good strong charger to bring that battery back and then use a maintainer not a trickle charger. The maintainer turns on and off according to what the battery needs and it can be left on for long periods of time. Now with that said letting a battery go dead, even if it is saved will cause it to have a shorter life span. In any event these batteries are a pain to change out. We have a decent dealer here in Az and I had them change my 14 battery out under warranty when is suddenly went totally dead.
#16
Race Director
When dealing with a dead battery, a trickle charge is not the way to go. You need a good strong charger to bring that battery back and then use a maintainer not a trickle charger. The maintainer turns on and off according to what the battery needs and it can be left on for long periods of time. Now with that said letting a battery go dead, even if it is saved will cause it to have a shorter life span. In any event these batteries are a pain to change out. We have a decent dealer here in Az and I had them change my 14 battery out under warranty when is suddenly went totally dead.
In my above post I assumed OP had the battery fully charged at the shop where it was tested, if not it needs to be fully charged. Trickle chargers and even alternators are more made to keep charged batteries charged, not to fully charge dead batteries.
#17
A trickle charger may not charge a totally dead battery. Some models need to see some voltage on the battery so proper connection polarity can be verified. A battery charger or a jump may be needed to get a bit of energy in the battery.
If you don't want to stay OEM - Group 48 is the size and you need at least the same 660 CCA rating as the original. I've used NAPA 8448 batteries in 2 vettes and and my DD with no issues. Have any battery you buy tested before you accept it. I've seen a couple dead on the shelf at one of the chain auto parts stores.
Don't forget fob batteries - they are only good for about 3 years. Replace with new, fresh batteries.
Ron
If you don't want to stay OEM - Group 48 is the size and you need at least the same 660 CCA rating as the original. I've used NAPA 8448 batteries in 2 vettes and and my DD with no issues. Have any battery you buy tested before you accept it. I've seen a couple dead on the shelf at one of the chain auto parts stores.
Don't forget fob batteries - they are only good for about 3 years. Replace with new, fresh batteries.
Ron
#18
Racer
I had my C7 for 3 years now and today I got a message on the dash to insert my fob in the fob receptacle in the steering wheel (located where a key in a regular car usually goes in), so I put it there and started the car up. If the fob battery is weak or dead, would putting the fob in the fob receptacle always work to start it up?
#19
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
Posts: 10,443
Received 2,240 Likes
on
1,149 Posts
If you're replacing the battery, put in a better one than the one that came in the car. I'd recommend the DieHard AGM Size G48 Model 50748:
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; 06-26-2020 at 08:56 AM.
#20
Le Mans Master
The acdelco 42 mo professional model also comes in a HR ( high reserve) model. Cost about $30 more. Lower cold crank amps but higher reserve. Unless you live in an extremely cold climate, high reserve is better suited for modern cars with complex electronic systems.