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Whoever changed your original dash used a pry tool on those area's to help get the original off.Someone winged it without checking a repair manual on the removal.
I bet you never saw it cause you never looked their.
I'd bet a can of disinfectant wipes on that is what happen
Ohh,That eraser thingy works pissa on light gray seats!
if that’s your idea why is it doing it on a part of the dash that has never been touch
Because its on a edge is what they saying and that the whole dash would need to be removed or the windshield needs to be removed is what I am hearing.
The whole dash would not need to be removed. You just need to remove the batwing and the dash edge is completely exposed to have it repaired.
The batwing comes off in less than a few minutes. Start video at 4:58
I am not sure, but I think that the speaker grill just pops off to expose the edge for repair as well.
Take it to a reputable place, odds are they will fix it.
Good luck.
The whole dash would not need to be removed. You just need to remove the batwing and the dash edge is completely exposed to have it repaired.
The batwing comes off in less than a few minutes. Start video at 4:58
I am not sure, but I think that the speaker grill just pops off to expose the edge for repair as well.
Take it to a reputable place, odds are they will fix it.
Good luck.
MMD - I just have to ask. Please explain to me how a magic eraser can be used ON LEATHER to remove concave divots? Are you saying to use the eraser to "file" down the outer edges to make the divot less concave - technically making it more level? Wouldn't that damage the leather, leaving it scuffed and unprotected? When you scuff leather, you remove the top "skin" layer, and the area dries out and then cracks over time...so Im just trying to understand any benefit to your suggestion.
All I have to say about the Magic Erasure is that I used it long ago to remove a Crayon mark from a table top and it removed the finish of the table in 3 or 4 strokes. After reading this thread I agree I was not using it on the correct surface, but I have steered clear of that product ever since that day (which caused a domestic and all holy hell to brake loose).
Its changed from the factory leather one but it was bought from my local GM dealer.
Ok, I was wondering if there was a reaction from different size clips or a chemical reaction from the adhesive from that part? Perhaps it was damaged when that part was installed?
Any chance your sunshade could have "burned" the dash? Like those folding foil like reflector types?
Was thinking of the root cause so it does not happen again if you get the dash replaced.
Ok, I was wondering if there was a reaction from different size clips or a chemical reaction from the adhesive from that part? Perhaps it was damaged when that part was installed?
Any chance your sunshade could have "burned" the dash? Like those folding foil like reflector types?
Was thinking of the root cause so it does not happen again if you get the dash replaced.
All the best
no that part was installed 2 years ago and I have washed my car and had the detailer wash it many times since then and those were not there. They showed up within the last 3 weeks for sure.
I do not believe the sunshade could cause this either.
Magic Eraser is indeed an mild abrasive - more similar to 5000 or 6000 grade sand paper than it is to a clay bar. Can you use it on leather seats, yes, but with a few words of caution before you reach for it.
A little leather seat and dash background for those that may not know...
Just about all leather is coated these days with a plastic like coating, so you have a little protection on top of the actual hide.This is the part that we try to keep clean and containment free from things like body oils, dye transfer from clothing and general dirt and grime. This is true for leather seats, dash, door panels, etc...all interior leather. In the case of our Corvettes, Napa or Mulan (3LZ/T or 2&1LZ/T) are coated.
Each time you use the magic eraser, you are removing a small bit of that coating. Just as when you polish your clear coat during a correction, you are removing micron layers of the clear coat. So, I'd reach for it if the dash or seat is HAMMERED only, I mean healthy amounts of visible grime and neglect. And, I'd only use it once on the surfaces. After that, I'd make sure these areas are cleaned once every month maybe two with good quality cleaners and then dressed with protectants so they don't get hammered again...Never allowing them to get to a level where you would need to use the magic eraser in the first place. The problem starts when you use it too hard the first time, or you always use it on leather - every time. You will eat away the coating. The leather will begin to look uneven and then with continued use, begin to show signs of damage.
So yes, you can use it but tread lightly. Don't dig in with it. Use some good quality cleaning products like dedicated interior cleaners - I like CarPro Inside neat, or some APCs like CarPro Multi-X @ 10:1 or Optimum Power Clean at 10:1 or even Superclean at anywhere from 15:1 to 10:1 depending on the level of grim I need to combat. Let the products do the heavy lifting, not the magic eraser. After that use a good dressing like CarPro Perl @ 5:1 or 3:1 or the 303 products, or Swissvax Leather Milk.
It works well on plastic kickplates on car doors to get rid of scuffs too and in that application you don't have to be too mindful with it like you do with leather. I love it on windshields after soaking in water with a good APC and/or glass cleaner instead of always reaching for a clay bar. It gets rid of contaminants quickly and efficiently. Again, no need to be overly concerned with damage in this scenario as well.
I hope this helps in anyone's decision in how and where to use this product. I always have some in my arsenal, and I do like it's capabilities now that I think I truly understand this product. Remember, we adapted it to detailing, it was not made for car detailing specifically.
Here are a few videos from some guys that really know what they are doing.
MMD - I just have to ask. Please explain to me how a magic eraser can be used ON LEATHER to remove concave divots? Are you saying to use the eraser to "file" down the outer edges to make the divot less concave - technically making it more level? Wouldn't that damage the leather, leaving it scuffed and unprotected? When you scuff leather, you remove the top "skin" layer, and the area dries out and then cracks over time...so Im just trying to understand any benefit to your suggestion.
No, I never mentioned or implied that using a Magic Eraser could be used to repair material defects in the dash. Originally I never saw those material gouges in the dash. To me they looked like reflections off the windshield. I was addressing the leather dash treatment and high level of gloss which I attributed to be plasticizers emulsifying from adhesive and/or the leather/vinyl on the upper dash. Magic Eraser can be used to remove this matter on the leather/plastic dash and restore it's original condition and luster. Watch this video. It will show you the benefits of using a Magic Eraser in cleaning leather if used properly.
The OP is faced with the decision of whether he wants to restore the leather dash to its original condition. This is a major job as the labor alone is about 16 hours to remove the upper dash. This is where the primary material damage appears in the photo. The batwing does not take that long to remove but it appears there is no damage on that surface. I also suggested a couple of quick fix vinyl repair ideas, for those damaged areas, that would circumvent the need for a costly repair. Those repair areas appear to be relatively small in size and could be addressed easily.
Magic Eraser is indeed an mild abrasive - more similar to 5000 or 6000 grade sand paper than it is to a clay bar. Can you use it on leather seats, yes, but with a few words of caution before you reach for it.
Magic Eraser is equivalent to about 3600 grit sandpaper which is considered a fine grit. Paint detailers will typically use 2000 to 3000 grit sandpaper to wet sand painted surfaces in preparation for clear coat vehicle paint. 3600 grit is pretty safe to use unless you really screw up and scrub with it firmly in one area. Use light pressure and keep the pad moving and you'll be fine.
It sure looks like physical damage like a pry bar used on those parts. No amount of cleaning is going to fix that. I use 303 protectant on my dash. my only issue is that if rushed can be applied unevenly leaving streaks. Needs to be generously applied to even it out.
agreed, that’s along the same lines as how I started my post.
Should be discussed in car car section by us detail geeks that actually give a care about a stupid little piece of foam! 😂
The thread is about discussing restoring/repair options for the OP's vehicle dash and what may have caused this condition given circumstances stated. It is not about car care or detailing. There are 2 aspects to this repair needed to restore this dashboard. First, is physical damage and second is addressing chemical damage. Just addressing the physical material damage will not restore this dash. A sticky dashboard is an side effect of an old and improperly maintained dashboard. Stickiness typically is caused by gunk build-up on the surface of the dashboard but it also can be caused by adhesive residue and chemical residues that can effuse from the surface and dash seams. Heat causes dyes and cleaners used to clean the dashboard to come to the surface. Additionally heat can result in emulsification of plasticizers used in leather/vinyl/plastic materials. Make note of the high gloss on the dashboard. The best way to remove residue is to clean the surface thoroughly. This is why the Magic Eraser was discussed. It is part of the effective solution to restore the OP's dash. If you have no interest reading about the Magic Eraser then skip over that aspect of the discussion.
Please start a new thread about magic eraser. It has nothing to do with the OP's problem and will not fix it.
Not saying Magic Eraser has no use - but Im still not sure why it was mentioned HERE regarding the OPs damaged leather issue (THIS IS NOT A CLEANING ISSUE)
Please start a new thread about magic eraser. It has nothing to do with the OP's problem and will not fix it.
Originally Posted by MMD
The thread is about discussing restoring/repair options for the OP's vehicle dash and what may have caused this condition given circumstances stated. It is not about car care or detailing. T
Originally Posted by Mayor111
Not saying Magic Eraser has no use - but Im still not sure why it was mentioned HERE regarding the OPs damaged leather issue (THIS IS NOT A CLEANING ISSUE)
This unfortunate Gentleman has a problem with his dash (which is why we are and should be all here), that I thought needed something way more than a chemical fix or a piece of abrasive foam....something way beyond my pay grade so I laid out for most of this. To my untrained eye,the solution looked like something way more involved than "spray this and then wipe with this to start".
But then, and much to my surprise, magic eraser kept being mentioned and from there it escalated off the rails about how and where to use it properly. At that point, a separate thread should have been created if we all wanted to discuss this little white puffy piece of foam ad nauseaum.
The 3 quotes above are exactly what I'm trying to convey. I don't know about anyone else here, but the last thing I want to do is create conflict with any of you fine folks here, especially over a piece of foam!
My post to try to convey this:
"agreed, that’s along the same lines as how I started my post.
Should be discussed in car car section by us detail geeks that actually give a care about a stupid little piece of foam! 😂"
The thread is about discussing restoring/repair options for the OP's vehicle dash and what may have caused this condition given circumstances stated. It is not about car care or detailing. There are 2 aspects to this repair needed to restore this dashboard. First, is physical damage and second is addressing chemical damage. Just addressing the physical material damage will not restore this dash. A sticky dashboard is an side effect of an old and improperly maintained dashboard. Stickiness typically is caused by gunk build-up on the surface of the dashboard but it also can be caused by adhesive residue and chemical residues that can effuse from the surface and dash seams. Heat causes dyes and cleaners used to clean the dashboard to come to the surface. Additionally heat can result in emulsification of plasticizers used in leather/vinyl/plastic materials. Make note of the high gloss on the dashboard. The best way to remove residue is to clean the surface thoroughly. This is why the Magic Eraser was discussed. It is part of the effective solution to restore the OP's dash. If you have no interest reading about the Magic Eraser then skip over that aspect of the discussion.
Wow dude, you're gonna tap dance yourself right off the edge of the stage.
Unless the detailer is not being truthful on what was used on the dash, I would focus on what was sprayed on the interior windshield. The alcohol or chemicals in window cleaners can damage vinyl. I would question detailing in that kind of heat too.
06-04-2020, 09:44 PM
Not saying Magic Eraser has no use - but Im still not sure why it was mentioned HERE regarding the OPs damaged leather issue (THIS IS NOT A CLEANING ISSUE)
