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Charger Hookup with clamps under hood to alternator OK?
anyone see a problem with charger hookup to the alternator as shown here? I know other threads say go to nut on back of fuse box, but my pos and neg clamps don't have enough length between them to hook to fuse box and find a suitable ground within about 12". My meter tester indicated these two points on the alternator as + and - showing 12.2 volts. What you think?
Last edited by jdsaengine; 01-06-2018 at 02:24 PM.
I'm just wondering why you'd want to hook it up under the hood at all?
I have an older charger with clamps only, no plug. I guess I could buy a new charger with a plug, but this one is just a year old. Thought about buying a plug and wiring it to my old charger, but could not find any in the stores. Could order a plug on amazon I guess for $10 + shipping or just do this, and its easier under the hood than taking the trunk apart to get to the battery terminals.
Last edited by jdsaengine; 01-07-2018 at 09:43 AM.
I'm just wondering why you'd want to hook it up under the hood at all?
I hook mine up to the front as that's where my power source is easiest to use. I also have a magnetic connection to the car that drops off if I forget to disconnect the maintainer. Even though everybody and their brother on here say "use the rear and close the lid, it won't hurt the cord", I'm old school and I don't close anything on a cord.
Most just gently close the hatch or trunk on the cord. Personally, I HATE to squeeze an electrical cord for ANY reason especially for extended periods of time. Were I to store my car for the winter, I would do this: http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hlight=battery
As it is, I live in Florida and drive the car year round. I still slap the car on the C-Tek when I park in the garage. I just like to have the battery topped off at all times. There are a lot of days where I do nothing but short trips and might not get the battery fully recharged before I park it for the night.
Old people have quirks, huh?
Please let me know if the link gives you any trouble.
If you don't want to close trunk on wire, buy a 12v extender socket and lead it out your passenger window and put it up just so that it does not touch the wire.
I have an older charger with clamps only, no plug. I guess I could buy a new charger with a plug, but this one is just a year old. Thought about buying a plug and wiring it to my old charger, but could not find any in the stores. Could order a plug on amazon I guess for $10 + shipping or just do this, and its easier under the hood than taking the trunk apart to get to the battery terminals.
You can buy the plug end off of Ebay for about 6 bucks if your charger cord has a connection between the charger, and the claps if you want. That's what I did.
I have an older charger with clamps only, no plug. I guess I could buy a new charger with a plug, but this one is just a year old. Thought about buying a plug and wiring it to my old charger, but could not find any in the stores. Could order a plug on amazon I guess for $10 + shipping or just do this, and its easier under the hood than taking the trunk apart to get to the battery terminals.
Fair enough . . . I have a convertible, which just involves opening the battery door in the trunk so nothing has to come apart. I thought coupes were the same.
Thus, I used alligator clamps directly on the battery before I purchased a 12v adapter for my maintainer.
Ditto . . . no damage to paint or cord, which can freely be moved in and out indicating no crimp. However, you can also just leave it cracked open. Lights and power still shut totally down after a few minutes.
You don't need the lighter plug to charge from the rear. I have mine on a tender right now with clamps on the battery. All you have to do is pull the carpet up a little and pull the styrofoam piece on top of the battery out. You have full access to the terminals in about 4 seconds.
I guess I just assumed all C7's had the battery charger port in the trunk. Is that not the case? My 14 Z51 2LT had it and my 2LZ 2017 Z06 has it.
That's what I thought and why I don't understand why anyone would go through the hassle of rigging under the hood or curling up your carpet and removing the foam battery protector when GM has provided a port specifically for battery tender connection. If my tender didn't have the port adapter I would just buy one for under $10.
Just to clarify, my charger only has clamps, and I'm too lazy to modify it with a plug. My convertible does have the plug in the trunk (as do all C7's) and I guess I could put clamps directly to the trunk battery terminals, but I have a 115v outlet rigged from ceiling to come down over the hood from my previous vett, so its easier for me to hook up under the hood somewhere rather than running extension cord to the back end. At some point this winter I guess I can back the car into the garage, order a plug, modify the charger and all will be happy
Last edited by jdsaengine; 01-08-2018 at 09:24 AM.
Just to clarify, my charger only has clamps, and I'm too lazy to modify it with a plug. My convertible does have the plug in the trunk (as do all C7's) and I guess I could put clamps directly to the trunk battery terminals, but I have a 115v outlet rigged from ceiling to come down over the hood from my previous vett, so its easier for me to hook up under the hood somewhere rather than running extension cord to the back end. At some point this winter I guess I can back the car into the garage, order a plug, modify the charger and all will be happy
I guess the best solution is whatever works best for the individual's circumstances.
Just to clarify, my charger only has clamps, and I'm too lazy to modify it with a plug. My convertible does have the plug in the trunk (as do all C7's) and I guess I could put clamps directly to the trunk battery terminals, but I have a 115v outlet rigged from ceiling to come down over the hood from my previous vett, so its easier for me to hook up under the hood somewhere rather than running extension cord to the back end. At some point this winter I guess I can back the car into the garage, order a plug, modify the charger and all will be happy
Hmm, I would be happy with you connecting to the alternator positive and wherever you find a good ground. That wire goes to the battery and the very low amperage the charger draws will create an insignificant voltage drop. In fact, once on maintenance mode it will be essentially zero!
Connecting directly to the battery is a PIA and good chance you'll rip the carpet when you access if you don't first remove the bottom clips on the right plastic wheel well cover!
Backing into the garage is a PIA, or would be for me!
As I said my street rod connects to the positive wire on the alternator and the ground on a manifold bolt. I also have an AC line close to the '34's hood and it slips in on the side louvers!
I never try to make everyone happy! Just those that count like the wife and customers!
Backing into the garage is a PIA, or would be for me!
As I said my street rod connects to the positive wire on the alternator and the ground on a manifold bolt. I also have an AC line close to the '34's hood and it slips in on the side louvers!
I never try to make everyone happy! Just those that count like the wife and customers!
Yep, backing up my sloped driveway today with freezing rain on top of 6" of snow would be a challenge for me too
Wish I still had my 32 high boy hot rod. I'm jealous. I had to sell mine and the C5 to pay for the C7
01-06-2018, 02:21 PM
Charger Hookup with clamps under hood to alternator OK?
That is where I check my battery voltage. Any bolt on the chassis makes a good ground.
