When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It happens more often when cold, and sometimes it takes several attempts to get it into gear. You'll learn the "feel" of when it goes into gear and when it's only halfway.
Just one of the aspects of having a transmission capable of handling 400+ ft.lb. of torque.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
It happens occasionally when it's cold. You can feel something's not quite right. Put it in neutral and start over.
Have you changed your transmission fluid yet? My Corvette hasn't popped out of gear, but I've had it happen on my Camaro once or twice. Changing the fluid makes shifting significantly easier.
Eight months after replacing the transmission fluid with Red Line D4 Synthetic ATF , the long term results are EXCELLENT! Last July, shortly after I changed the fluid, I indicated I still had still experienced more pressure required to engage 1st gear, occasionally. However, after a few more weeks, that was no longer the case! It is extremely smooth with no hint of reluctance to engage! I would say, the Transmission fluid was the primary reason for the problem. However, the MGW shifter was not a disappointment! I love it!
I have been following your thread with great interest as this is precisely my issue on my early build (10/13) C7 Z51 now with 17K mi. The “popping out” of 1st and difficulty of engagement seemed to occur intermittently without any rhyme or reason. First I thought it was my error in not fully depressing the clutch but later realized it was not. Since I had the dash dimming light issue that needed a total reflashing, I considered the shifting issue minor. Now, I finally want to address it. My question to you is: after going through your identical experience, what would you recommend I do first? Change trans. fluid to Redline D4 Synthtic ATF(trans. fluid has never been changed)? Have dealer do TSB? Install MGW shifter? All the above? Your recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
I have been following your thread with great interest as this is precisely my issue on my early build (10/13) C7 Z51 now with 17K mi. The “popping out” of 1st and difficulty of engagement seemed to occur intermittently without any rhyme or reason. First I thought it was my error in not fully depressing the clutch but later realized it was not. Since I had the dash dimming light issue that needed a total reflashing, I considered the shifting issue minor. Now, I finally want to address it. My question to you is: after going through your identical experience, what would you recommend I do first? Change trans. fluid to Redline D4 Synthtic ATF(trans. fluid has never been changed)? Have dealer do TSB? Install MGW shifter? All the above? Your recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
Definitely would change the transmission fluid first! It took a few weeks after the change before all first gear engagements were totally resolved, but there was a very noticeable improvement immediately! If it is still not resolved, I would perform the service bulletin, next. If you are reasonably mechanically inclined, you can do the procedure, yourself. Download the MGW shifter installation video which shows you how to remove the console and follow the instructions on the service bulletin or follow the MGW procedure they show for the installation of their shifter. They show a tool they use, but it is not necessary. The dealer will charge around $150 to do the service bulletin as they claim the shifter is not part of the transmission which is covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty.
Last, but not least, install the MGW shifter! You will love it! In my situation, the transmission fluid change was most effective in resolving the problem! Totally resolved the problem!
My C5 tends to 'pop' out of 1st at initial start like the OP's.
Mine did this when I purchased it at ~45K mi and still (at 125K) does this. Not a big deal for me. Just let the clutch out a bit before you intend to take off, to ensure 1st if fully seated.
My M7 GS doesn't do this, however it is a bit 'notchy'er' when shifting. Hoping this will be alleviated during an upcoming fluid change.
Definitely would change the transmission fluid first! It took a few weeks after the change before all first gear engagements were totally resolved, but there was a very noticeable improvement immediately! If it is still not resolved, I would perform the service bulletin, next. If you are reasonably mechanically inclined, you can do the procedure, yourself. Download the MGW shifter installation video which shows you how to remove the console and follow the instructions on the service bulletin or follow the MGW procedure they show for the installation of their shifter. They show a tool they use, but it is not necessary. The dealer will charge around $150 to do the service bulletin as they claim the shifter is not part of the transmission which is covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty.Last, but not least, install the MGW shifter! You will love it! In my situation, the transmission fluid change was most effective in resolving the problem! Totally resolved the problem!
Your initial post describes my car (2019 Stingray 7M, bought new) perfectly, sadly the lube change and MGW shifter install did not help mine. I don't really know any dealer mechanics because I've done all work on my cars for 40 yrs so I don't trust them to touch my car. I think I'm stuck with finding and fixing the problem myself now, just frustrating when I hear on videos how good the C7 manual is and that I'm faced with such a big job on a car so new. I'm hoping the tech posts on here will have good information, I'd like to understand and see a pic of the actual shift gate mechanism in the transmission before I start. One other thing, a problem with the 1-2 shift fork such as one of the friction pads or the whole shift fork finger on one side broken/missing would cause the same symptoms. I'm going to get a boroscope and go in through the fill plug hole hoping to examine the shift fork and maybe the shift gate although I think it's top center in the transmission and may be impossible to get to with the boroscope. I'll post up if I get anywhere on this.
^^^
Assuming your problem is as the OP Stated: "I have a 2014 C7 with a 7 Speed manual with 44,000 miles. I am experiencing difficulty at times getting the transmission to engage in 1st gear. Sometimes is goes in normally, but other times it will not fully engage and kick out of gear when I release the clutch. Most of the time I now recognize that it is not fully engaged and I apply sufficient force to feel it "click" into gear. This has been an issue since I bought the car new in 2013.I have asked the dealer to address this problem, but he says unless something is "broken" when they disassemble the transmission, any remedy that that doesn't result from a broken part, it would not be covered under warranty. He said as long as it will go into gear, even with this issue, he doesn't believe it would be wise to disassemble the transmission until it fails to stay in gear. He claims that this can be expected with manual transmissions! I have driven cars with manual transmissions and never had this issue, before."
I'm no transmission expert but agree with you, neither are most even trained C7 Techs regarding transmission. Doubt many every took one apart!
I posted two pics below re the one I have found on the detent and another the 1st gear etc shift arm. That one shows the only detent I ever found. I'd sure check that to be sure a spring is not broken or weak or the detent ball is not scored or distorted. See the Nylon pads you're referring to, #4 and #6.
Second you obviously know what your doing and don't want to insult but assume you have blead the clutch. Know it's a PIA having to remove the left exhaust pipe and CAT. I have used the Ranger Method every year on my C6, 2014 Z51 and Grand Sport. Have recommended that procedure to some having problems and it worked.
Since you installed an MGW shifter (as I did) think I would set the shifter perhaps an 1/8 inch more toward 1st gear and see if that helps. One other thing I had happen. The foolish GM aluminum clamp that holds the shift rod to the hollow shaft caused slippage! I called MGW and he said he has that happen on some Corvettes! He recommended I clean the shaft coming from the shift box AND the internal tubular shaft back to the trans. He also said he has roughened the shaft coming out of the box. I did that but not easy to get much on the hardened shaft. I used a file. I also bought a new aluminum clamp and screw. I tighten very tight and it worked fine, never had an issue after. BUT you could see relative movement between the shaft coming out of the box and hollow shaft before I fixed.
He said one thing can make that happen, which I know I did prior to it slipping as it had been fine for months. Had the radio playing loud, as usual. When to put it in reverse and did not realize the engine was off! Recall using a lot of side force. Turns out the reverse lock out release below a few mph works with the engine running. The fail save mode with the engine off is Reverse is locked out!
^^^
Assuming your problem is as the OP Stated: "I have a 2014 C7 with a 7 Speed manual with 44,000 miles. I am experiencing difficulty at times getting the transmission to engage in 1st gear. Sometimes is goes in normally, but other times it will not fully engage and kick out of gear when I release the clutch. Most of the time I now recognize that it is not fully engaged and I apply sufficient force to feel it "click" into gear. This has been an issue since I bought the car new in 2013.I have asked the dealer to address this problem, but he says unless something is "broken" when they disassemble the transmission, any remedy that that doesn't result from a broken part, it would not be covered under warranty. He said as long as it will go into gear, even with this issue, he doesn't believe it would be wise to disassemble the transmission until it fails to stay in gear. He claims that this can be expected with manual transmissions! I have driven cars with manual transmissions and never had this issue, before."
I'm no transmission expert but agree with you, neither are most even trained C7 Techs regarding transmission. Doubt many every took one apart!
I posted two pics below re the one I have found on the detent and another the 1st gear etc shift arm. That one shows the only detent I ever found. I'd sure check that to be sure a spring is not broken or weak or the detent ball is not scored or distorted. See the Nylon pads you're referring to, #4 and #6.
Second you obviously know what your doing and don't want to insult but assume you have blead the clutch. Know it's a PIA having to remove the left exhaust pipe and CAT. I have used the Ranger Method every year on my C6, 2014 Z51 and Grand Sport. Have recommended that procedure to some having problems and it worked.
Since you installed an MGW shifter (as I did) think I would set the shifter perhaps an 1/8 inch more toward 1st gear and see if that helps. One other thing I had happen. The foolish GM aluminum clamp that holds the shift rod to the hollow shaft caused slippage! I called MGW and he said he has that happen on some Corvettes! He recommended I clean the shaft coming from the shift box AND the internal tubular shaft back to the trans. He also said he has roughened the shaft coming out of the box. I did that but not easy to get much on the hardened shaft. I used a file. I also bought a new aluminum clamp and screw. I tighten very tight and it worked fine, never had an issue after. BUT you could see relative movement between the shaft coming out of the box and hollow shaft before I fixed.
He said one thing can make that happen, which I know I did prior to it slipping as it had been fine for months. Had the radio playing loud, as usual. When to put it in reverse and did not realize the engine was off! Recall using a lot of side force. Turns out the reverse lock out release below a few mph works with the engine running. The fail save mode with the engine off is Reverse is locked out!
thanks for all the good info and screenshots Jerry, I will bleed the clutch and adjust the shifter a smidge to rule those possibilities out. Also, that little shift rod clamp did seem a little 'mushy' when I installed the MGW so I will get another one before I adjust the shifter again.
Thanks so much, I'll post up with any good news
BTW, I will make a fixture to use when removing the transmission to help secure it to the transmission jack if I have to go that far. I saw in your first screenshot some information on that. If it's not too much trouble, and there is no rush, would you mind posting the page on that so I can make one?
^^^
Happy to do it.
Here are two pics. Could not find a GM part number for the fixture and it doesn't show in M7 Tools. Perhaps a standard transmission jack adapter that is essentially a chain!
Made one where I bought my new clamp. Might be able to get one from a local dealer cheaper. But I was concerned the aluminum could have a crack and before I took it apart bought a new one. Used but but did not see a crack. When I called MGW and talked with the owner is when I found out a few installs he does on Vettes have had the issue. Recall him saying he thought there was a steel insert in the aluminum. Perhaps for some BUT not the M7.
That is a crazy design, which he said as well. The bolt that fit in the steel slot on the shaft coming from the box does NOT hold it securely. It requires high friction from the clamp pressure closing the slotted long shaft. It does have to be clean to get the max friction. His idea of roughening the steel shaft is a good one but I did it with the shaft mounted. If you took it out could get a rougher surface with a file or grinding wheel.
But IF that is an issue you will be able to see movement between the sold short shaft and hollow longer shaft going to the trans when you shift when you have it exposed. I did, a lot! As I said once I cleaned both parts and roughened the shaft as best I could all was fine for over a year.
Struggled with this ever since I got my Z06. I corrected by keeping pressure on 1st as I let out the clutch. After a few weeks I discovered that sometimes you are blocked from fully engaging 1st and only when you're releasing the clutch to reach the biting point will you feel it finally go into place (with light pressure constantly on the shifter).
It wasn't a big deal until I went to VIR and would get pushed out of 5th gear into neutral under hard braking. Everyone appeared to be clueless so I went the route most people did and ended up getting the MGW. The first gear issue still happens sometimes but I'm not being pulled out of 5th anymore. Regardless, I'm very happy with the MGW shifter.
Struggled with this ever since I got my Z06. I corrected by keeping pressure on 1st as I let out the clutch. After a few weeks I discovered that sometimes you are blocked from fully engaging 1st and only when you're releasing the clutch to reach the biting point will you feel it finally go into place (with light pressure constantly on the shifter).
It wasn't a big deal until I went to VIR and would get pushed out of 5th gear into neutral under hard braking. Everyone appeared to be clueless so I went the route most people did and ended up getting the MGW. The first gear issue still happens sometimes but I'm not being pulled out of 5th anymore. Regardless, I'm very happy with the MGW shifter.
You and others describe that, same with mine. Since that particular scenario occurs at the last end of the shift stroke, it makes me think it's past the shift gate lock out and only affected by the reluctance of the slider ring to finish it's movement past the detent and aligning the syncro dogs to the gear dogs. Regardless, it doesn't matter what I think until I rule out some other stuff mentioned already and then get a look inside the transmission. I put the TREMEC Magnum XL in my 13 Mustang and it shifted perfectly : (
You and others describe that, same with mine. Since that particular scenario occurs at the last end of the shift stroke, it makes me think it's past the shift gate lock out and only affected by the reluctance of the slider ring to finish it's movement past the detent and aligning the syncro dogs to the gear dogs. Regardless, it doesn't matter what I think until I rule out some other stuff mentioned already and then get a look inside the transmission. I put the TREMEC Magnum XL in my 13 Mustang and it shifted perfectly : (
I don't know how likely it is but my gut is telling me it's related to the CAGS mechanical components.
This Video may not help but it's the best I've ever seen on Synchro's, Sliders, Cone etc operation. Fun to watch since you're working on transmissions!
One thing that occurred to me with folks changing from the Tremic/GM fluid recommendation, is you do need some friction to have Synchro's work! Especially for the triple Synchro's in lower gears
I don't know how likely it is but my gut is telling me it's related to the CAGS mechanical components.
More likely that's the halftime nachos from yesterday. CAGS has been around at least 30 years, and it's a real simple system.
I've owned 4 different Tremec transmissions since 1998, and *all* of them have had occasional issues going into 1st cleanly. When you have a transmission that's rated at 450 ft-lb of torque (and can probably handle a fair amount more), coupled to that long torque rod shifter linkage, some resistance (and that mainly when it's cold) isn't too surprising.
that was a really good video, I love hearing from a guy that really knows his trade. I want to put the GM oil back in the transmission.
Also, VetteDrmr's experience with TREMECs all having trouble engaging first sometimes pushes me back to thinking there isn't actually anything damaged inside my transmission.
and I just need to do the couple of things Jerry recommends.
BTW, I have no idea what CAGS is.
03-23-2018, 01:57 PM
It happens occasionally when it's cold. You can feel something's not quite right. Put it in neutral and start over.
CAGS has been around at least 30 years, and it's a real simple system.