Weather strip lubrication
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Weather strip lubrication
The manual says to, "apply dielectric silicone grease on weatherstrips to make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Lubricate weatherstrips at least once a year.
Does anyone actually do this?
Does anyone actually do this?
#2
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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^^^^
Have not but this is the 2nd time recently I have read that on the forum. I have a large tube I have used for years on all bulb bases installed out doors. It's 100% silicon. I'll put some on the new Grand Sport I was informed was built yesterday when I got my VIN! Sounds like a good idea for the roof seals!
Have not but this is the 2nd time recently I have read that on the forum. I have a large tube I have used for years on all bulb bases installed out doors. It's 100% silicon. I'll put some on the new Grand Sport I was informed was built yesterday when I got my VIN! Sounds like a good idea for the roof seals!
Last edited by JerryU; 04-06-2017 at 07:27 AM.
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#4
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
If you live in cold climes, some weatherstripping tends to get dirty and stick to doors, windows, etc. Lube helps so it doesn't. Old weatherstripping used to crack after a couple years without treatment. New weatherstripping is better made.
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#7
Safety Car
I do mine once a year with a light coat of GM dielectric silicone grease. I apply it with my fingers to cover all the surfaces of the seals and wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Never had any issues with seals sticking, squeaking or cracking.
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#8
Team Owner
My $.02. Dielectric silicone grease works but it's a bit messy and anyone who works with silicone knows it inevitably migrates to surfaces you don't necessarily want it on
I have always used 303 Aerospace for my interior trim and recently discovered these two products the same company makes for weather strip treatment and plastic trim restoration. Both work great and are a lot neater/easier to apply.
The rubber protectant applicator makes it a cinch to apply the right amount so it takes less time to cover all the seals. The trim restorer applies like a protectant but you do need to be careful to keep it off of surfaces you don't want treated - not that it damages, but it does leave a residue that you will see after it cures. I found alcohol wipes will easily remove any excess I got on clear bra, windows and paint.
I have always used 303 Aerospace for my interior trim and recently discovered these two products the same company makes for weather strip treatment and plastic trim restoration. Both work great and are a lot neater/easier to apply.
The rubber protectant applicator makes it a cinch to apply the right amount so it takes less time to cover all the seals. The trim restorer applies like a protectant but you do need to be careful to keep it off of surfaces you don't want treated - not that it damages, but it does leave a residue that you will see after it cures. I found alcohol wipes will easily remove any excess I got on clear bra, windows and paint.
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#9
Burning Brakes
Gummiflgedgeded is good stuff, I use that now.
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Maxie2U (04-06-2017)
#10
Melting Slicks
Yes, I have been using the GM Dielectric Silicone Grease product (you can buy it at the dealership) for over 20 years on every Vette I've owned. I apply it to all the rubber seals using an old sock on my hand. Works great!!
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#11
Team Owner
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ttt
Yes I use it and do the car 2 times at least per year.
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#13
Drifting
I bought a tube of this back in the day of distributor caps to insure the rotor and cap had good contact. Since then, I have used it anytime I have had rubber, plastic, and other synthetics that needed to be rendered chemically inert to prevent hardening and cracking. Works good for me!!
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Maxie2U (04-06-2017)
#14
Melting Slicks
Edit: Did it yesterday, inspired by this thread.
The book says to use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Last edited by iclick; 04-08-2017 at 02:35 PM.
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#15
Le Mans Master
Last edited by Flame Red; 04-06-2017 at 12:36 PM.
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#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Does it dry or stay wet like grease?
My concern with applying either silicone spray or silicone grease is it will be a magnetic for dirt and road grime which will accurate wear.
#17
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'm thinking this one which is packaged in a sponge-tipped applicator bottle, which makes it extremely easy to apply it to rubber weatherstripping and leaves a non greasey protection.
http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-...are-stick.html
Last edited by Maxie2U; 04-06-2017 at 03:17 PM.
#18
Le Mans Master
I do.
I bought a big toothpaste-tube-sized tube of Permatex Dielectric grease at the auto parts store for like what... $7 or so? Lasts many years and applications.
I use the following method at least once or twice a year on my Corvette's door, roof and hatch seals:
1) Open doors & hatch and remove roof. Wipe clean all weatherstripping with a dampened paper towel to remove dust, dirt, etc.
2) Apply dielectric grease liberally to all weatherstripping (I apply with my fingers, as a paper towel absorbs too much of the product and tends to wipe it off instead of wiping it in). At this point they should look shiny/wet from the grease.
3) Let that coating of dielectric grease sit undisturbed on the seals for about 30 minutes.
4) Using several clean paper towels, gently wipe off all excess grease from seals. Then close doors, reinstall roof, close hatch.
Done.
After the above process, I have very minimal residue left to collect dust/dirt on the seals.
I have been doing this since my C5 days, and haven't had any issues with seals. I don't know if its the "official" method, but it works for me.
I bought a big toothpaste-tube-sized tube of Permatex Dielectric grease at the auto parts store for like what... $7 or so? Lasts many years and applications.
I use the following method at least once or twice a year on my Corvette's door, roof and hatch seals:
1) Open doors & hatch and remove roof. Wipe clean all weatherstripping with a dampened paper towel to remove dust, dirt, etc.
2) Apply dielectric grease liberally to all weatherstripping (I apply with my fingers, as a paper towel absorbs too much of the product and tends to wipe it off instead of wiping it in). At this point they should look shiny/wet from the grease.
3) Let that coating of dielectric grease sit undisturbed on the seals for about 30 minutes.
4) Using several clean paper towels, gently wipe off all excess grease from seals. Then close doors, reinstall roof, close hatch.
Done.
After the above process, I have very minimal residue left to collect dust/dirt on the seals.
I have been doing this since my C5 days, and haven't had any issues with seals. I don't know if its the "official" method, but it works for me.
Last edited by Kent1999; 04-06-2017 at 03:50 PM.
#19
Le Mans Master
I'm thinking this one which is packaged in a sponge-tipped applicator bottle, which makes it extremely easy to apply it to rubber weatherstripping and leaves a non greasey protection.
http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-...are-stick.html
http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-...are-stick.html
Last edited by Flame Red; 04-06-2017 at 04:34 PM.
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#20
Melting Slicks
I don't bother with the garaged vehicles. They seem to be fine even after 10 years or more because the are hardly ever exposed to the elements. I do with the daily drivers, particularly the ones that sit outside. Generally start at about year 3 and then every 1-2 years after that.
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