NTMD8R

In my opinion....
That rear Toe is WAY TOO MUCH. I have mine set to zero at the rear.
That front Camber is WAY TOO MUCH. I have mine set for 1.8 - 2.0.

Remember I autocross pretty much every weekend (both my wife and I).
So my settings are for autocross, plus driving on the street to/from the track.
We don't really drive the car much for anything else (we have a '67 convertible for cruising).

savage

I have had at least 8 alignments on my c7's in the last 17 months, testing, testing, testing, with all that rear tow in there is no oversteer, with the neg camber in the front I'm useing all my front tire end to end 295/30/18, ( I was over 3 degrees neg at one time, could not get tire to roll to edge even with lower tire pressure, I have much time and money in these numbers and I feel they work best for me,

savage

to each his own, im just posting what i have learned and how i learned it. let me start with the rear tow in, i did try 0 tow( oversteer ) a few forum members down on the autocross threads told me to keep cranking it in untill i have no oversteer( use the rear of car to help steer) their is a junk 98 vette in my club that does unbelievable on street tires, i know how he does it, i run a 1/4 inch each side of tow in - he runs 1/3 inch each side. now the neg camber up front( i run soft hoosiers so i can read the tires very easy after each run and event) with 1.2 neg camber all i was useing was the outer 1/3 of the tire( not kidding) soft tire very easy to see what is going on, so i just kept adding more and more neg camber 3.1 untill tire would not roll over to outer edge. should have stopped at 2.7, but i wanted to test and know and not wonder what if this and that. i also have run 1.9 rear neg camber and that did not work for me why? i had no launch ( contact patch) was to small, i had to much tire spin on the start, i would like even less than the 1.5 i have now but i would have to put the washers back in behind the a-arms i took out. i truly feel my numbers are magic, i sacrificed many events the last two autocross seasons testing numbers to come up with these, as they say dont knock it till you try it! LOL thanks for reading

NTMD8R

OK, if this is what works best for you (and you have obviously taken quite some time and effort)
to get there... great.

savage

Thanks, here is one more of my tests.

NTMD8R

Savage,
if you are still pulling to the right,
look at your Caster.
I see your right is .3 greater than the left.
This could be the culprit.

Also, see if you can get them both to around 8.0 or more.
I have just set mine to 9.0.
Caster can affect camber at speed.

mrr23

John parks was the OP having a concern for pulling right. Savage was just showing some of his different alignments settings he has used.

Having the caster higher on the right will push the car left not right.

Signed - the alignment guy

NTMD8R

mrr23,
ah, you are correct.... my mistake in addressing my post to savage.

stevebz06

Just a question: have you checked the stagger of the tires? That would be the circumference or diameter of the tire. One tire having a larger circumference could cause the drift. I was flying an airplane that wouldn't taxi straight and it turned out that one nose gear tire was larger than the other even though they were the same spec.

Another possibility is ride height. If your car is not level, side to side, this could cause your problem. I had a car that I couldn't get to track straight and finally fixed it with a
new set of springs.

jonparks

up date:
Looks like the problem was radial pull. New tires fixed the problem.

mjw930

It was mentioned in one post that everyone seemed to miss but NONE of these measurements or specs posted show the rear CASTER! It seems no one understands how rear caster can effect the handling or that as you dial in rear camber you can easily add unwanted caster which will cause the rear to get twitchy, especially under load.

Rear caster is easy to measure, only takes a $30 digital angle gauge and a straight edge aligned to the mounting holes machined into the rear hubs, it has nothing to do with the alignment machine, none of them can measure rear caster.

Do the research, understand the effect rear caster has, get the proper equipment or build it like I have and find an alignment shop that can measure and set it or you are leaving handling on the alignment rack.

BenCasey

A well documented how-to with a few pics would make you a forum hero...

mjw930

Lots of info in these threads:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ignment-2.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=2328

My setup for the rear is a bit different but I'm on the road and can't post pictures. Once I get home I'll show what my rear alignment tool looks like. Basically it's a digital angle gauge you can pick up on Amazon, 2 bolts used as dowels (the alignment holes aren't threaded, they use pins, and a straight piece of steel (you can use a wrench). It's a bit more precise than an iPhone.

I've considered purchasing the GM mounting bracket but it was on back order last I checked.
https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10

formula80_ca

Just had my alignment checked at the dealer last Friday and found that the front toe was set to .08 toe OUT on each side insead of toe in of .05. The front caster was also out of spec. The front camber was within spec but was even at .6 negative on both sides instead of the factory offset of .3 more on right to stop the car from drifting right. Now it is set at the recommended offset but at .7 negative camber on left and 1.0 negative on right. The toe is now at recommended .05 toe in on both sides and caster is within spec at 7.7 left and 7.5 right (not sure how much .02 difference will affect things). I am going back anyway because the slight right drift has become a slight left drift now.

On the rear the toe was .05 toe in instead of factory target of 0.0. The rear camber was way different side to side .3 negative on left and 1.1 negative on the right. The dealer did not have the two special tools to measure rear caster or even know that they should measure rear caster.

They set the rear camber at negative 1.0 on both sides and the toe ended up at .08 toe in on left and .04 toe in on right. The thrust angle ended up at .02. I am going to have to go back again and have it redone when they get the tools... the service manager said he would "look into it".

With the amount the car was out from the factory for many of these parameters I would guess that there is a good chance the rear caster was out and now that they had to change the left side camber so much I bet the caster has changed alot because of that. I am wanting some rear toe in because I am an autocrosser and that will help with reducing power on oversteer.

Any help with suggestions for a daily drive and autocross combined setting would be helpful

Thanks,

Clive