Install Catch Can in C7 Info?
06-01-2014, 09:04 PM
#162
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I followed the Elite instructions, which are logical. The can outlet, side fitting, goes to the manifold hose barb, which is the top one. The other engine hose barb goes to the can inlet, the one on top of the can. The flow is from the engine to the manifold.
06-01-2014, 09:49 PM
#163
Thanks for the replies.
06-02-2014, 02:25 AM
#164
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Have never seen what good these things do. Since 1997 have had an LS1, LS6 and LS7 and never used a catch can. When my LS7 dropped a valve at 22K miles (including 4K track miles) and the heads were pulled the cylinders looked good (other than the hammered one).
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
06-02-2014, 02:33 AM
#165
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
I feel bad for how hard Bill is about to get flamed (as a fellow Tech Contributor)...
Bill, you might want to start by reviewing the TSBs on oil pooled in the intakes, etc. I won't be harsh on you, but a few others might.
Bill, you might want to start by reviewing the TSBs on oil pooled in the intakes, etc. I won't be harsh on you, but a few others might.
06-02-2014, 07:44 AM
#167
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Have never seen what good these things do. Since 1997 have had an LS1, LS6 and LS7 and never used a catch can. When my LS7 dropped a valve at 22K miles (including 4K track miles) and the heads were pulled the cylinders looked good (other than the hammered one).
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
Pic is one I put together. Not meant to be accurate and I'm not sure how bad coking will be with the C7 and it no doubt depends on how the car is driven. However easy to add and I’ll see how much contaminated oil I find!
PS: Your comment did make me think about my old boss who, when he saw someone doing what he thought was irrational in our R&D lab, he would say with distain, “Your solving a problem not known to exist using a method known not to work!”
Last edited by JerryU; 06-02-2014 at 07:47 AM.
06-02-2014, 10:35 AM
#168
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Have never seen what good these things do. Since 1997 have had an LS1, LS6 and LS7 and never used a catch can. When my LS7 dropped a valve at 22K miles (including 4K track miles) and the heads were pulled the cylinders looked good (other than the hammered one).
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
It looks to me like a catch can is a solution to a non problem.
Bill
As Jerry says above with Direct Injected Engines running a Catch Can is even more important than in non-DI engines but I have always added catch cans to all my non-DI cars anyway. Without fail every time I do an oil change and empty that can (every 3K miles) I find a quarter to a half cup of very ugly dirty black oil that surely was headed back to my intake system to muddy up the intake manifold and valves for sure.
If you don't plan on keeping your car long it is a non-issue but over time that stuff can gum up the works and reduce engine performance.
A $150.00 catch can that is easy for anyone to install in 30 minutes is a great form of insurance.
06-05-2014, 02:49 PM
#171
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Sure, you're solving too different issues. They are not connected. Will just cost you another $5 for shipping, no big deal.
06-05-2014, 02:53 PM
#172
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
Steve really didn't go into any detail (yet) about the fix as he didn't have my color 3 Port catch can (blue) in stock but will in a week or two. But he did commit to making it right and I have no reason to doubt that he will.
I assume he will clue me in as to the details of what is involved and how they'll handle the exchange (although I did offer my opinion as to the best way to handle the exchange).
I assume he will clue me in as to the details of what is involved and how they'll handle the exchange (although I did offer my opinion as to the best way to handle the exchange).
Steve......
06-06-2014, 03:06 PM
#173
Racer
I did run out of patience and ordered the E2 dual exit catch can and also the clean-air oil separator for the Z51 since I plan to put a lot of miles on the car the next few weeks. I installed both this morning and here are a few of my observations.
1. The clean-air oil separator stumped me for a few minutes. The hose barb fitting is in the way of everything trying to screw the unit in place. If you separate the two pieces and just install the bottom part, the top half still gets in the way. After a few minutes of thinking WWTD (what would Theta do) I realized the hose barb will unscrew from the housing allowing the unit to be installed as one piece. After this, simply screw the bard back in and connect the hose.
2. The issue with number 1 is if you ever want to add oil or change oil you have to take the hose loose, disconnect the barb and unscrew the separator and then do your thing. Herein lies another issue. When you try to remove the separator it wants to unscrew from the top half leaving the bottom half still in the dry sump. Just another issue you have to deal with if and when you want to get this thing off for one reason or another.
3. The E2 dual exit catch can is larger than the original single exit catch can and the second exit gets in the way of the wire bundles. You have to rotate the can about 20 degrees to the left to get everything connected and finalize the installation of the catch can. Not a real issue just doesn't look quite as neat IMO.
4. Elite provides a plastic 3/8 ID x 1/4" MIP fitting that you are supposed to install in the breather tube just in front of the throttle body. Do yourself a favor and throw that thing away and go to Lowes and purchase a brass version. It will thread into the tube easier and has a sturdier feel after it's connected to the tube.
5. Minor gripe here but no hose clamps were provided with the kit. They were provided with the single exit can. probably not really necessary however it does offer some added insurance if the line slips off the barb.
All in all the two items are installed and hopefully operational. I'll find out this weekend.
06-07-2014, 02:48 AM
#174
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Steve and I have exchanged a couple of emails but nothing to rectify the single exit catch can issue on a Z51.
I did run out of patience and ordered the E2 dual exit catch can and also the clean-air oil separator for the Z51 since I plan to put a lot of miles on the car the next few weeks. I installed both this morning and here are a few of my observations.
1. The clean-air oil separator stumped me for a few minutes. The hose barb fitting is in the way of everything trying to screw the unit in place. If you separate the two pieces and just install the bottom part, the top half still gets in the way. After a few minutes of thinking WWTD (what would Theta do) I realized the hose barb will unscrew from the housing allowing the unit to be installed as one piece. After this, simply screw the bard back in and connect the hose.
2. The issue with number 1 is if you ever want to add oil or change oil you have to take the hose loose, disconnect the barb and unscrew the separator and then do your thing. Herein lies another issue. When you try to remove the separator it wants to unscrew from the top half leaving the bottom half still in the dry sump. Just another issue you have to deal with if and when you want to get this thing off for one reason or another.
3. The E2 dual exit catch can is larger than the original single exit catch can and the second exit gets in the way of the wire bundles. You have to rotate the can about 20 degrees to the left to get everything connected and finalize the installation of the catch can. Not a real issue just doesn't look quite as neat IMO.
4. Elite provides a plastic 3/8 ID x 1/4" MIP fitting that you are supposed to install in the breather tube just in front of the throttle body. Do yourself a favor and throw that thing away and go to Lowes and purchase a brass version. It will thread into the tube easier and has a sturdier feel after it's connected to the tube.
5. Minor gripe here but no hose clamps were provided with the kit. They were provided with the single exit can. probably not really necessary however it does offer some added insurance if the line slips off the barb.
All in all the two items are installed and hopefully operational. I'll find out this weekend.
I did run out of patience and ordered the E2 dual exit catch can and also the clean-air oil separator for the Z51 since I plan to put a lot of miles on the car the next few weeks. I installed both this morning and here are a few of my observations.
1. The clean-air oil separator stumped me for a few minutes. The hose barb fitting is in the way of everything trying to screw the unit in place. If you separate the two pieces and just install the bottom part, the top half still gets in the way. After a few minutes of thinking WWTD (what would Theta do) I realized the hose barb will unscrew from the housing allowing the unit to be installed as one piece. After this, simply screw the bard back in and connect the hose.
2. The issue with number 1 is if you ever want to add oil or change oil you have to take the hose loose, disconnect the barb and unscrew the separator and then do your thing. Herein lies another issue. When you try to remove the separator it wants to unscrew from the top half leaving the bottom half still in the dry sump. Just another issue you have to deal with if and when you want to get this thing off for one reason or another.
3. The E2 dual exit catch can is larger than the original single exit catch can and the second exit gets in the way of the wire bundles. You have to rotate the can about 20 degrees to the left to get everything connected and finalize the installation of the catch can. Not a real issue just doesn't look quite as neat IMO.
4. Elite provides a plastic 3/8 ID x 1/4" MIP fitting that you are supposed to install in the breather tube just in front of the throttle body. Do yourself a favor and throw that thing away and go to Lowes and purchase a brass version. It will thread into the tube easier and has a sturdier feel after it's connected to the tube.
5. Minor gripe here but no hose clamps were provided with the kit. They were provided with the single exit can. probably not really necessary however it does offer some added insurance if the line slips off the barb.
All in all the two items are installed and hopefully operational. I'll find out this weekend.
Last edited by JerryU; 06-07-2014 at 02:54 AM.
06-07-2014, 07:49 AM
#175
The oil pooling is caused by too much oil in the dry sump oil tank "burping" back through the tank vent into the intake air runner by the air filter. No part is needed to prevent this, just a properly filled oil tank. You can put on the clean side separator, which is nothing more than an oil tank cap with a stainless mesh to catch the liquid before it gets to the intake, if you are feeling particularly paranoid.
06-07-2014, 03:32 PM
#177
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Actually the TSB on oil pooling is a separate issue from intake valve coking and the catch can.
The oil pooling is caused by too much oil in the dry sump oil tank "burping" back through the tank vent into the intake air runner by the air filter. No part is needed to prevent this, just a properly filled oil tank. You can put on the clean side separator, which is nothing more than an oil tank cap with a stainless mesh to catch the liquid before it gets to the intake, if you are feeling particularly paranoid.
The oil pooling is caused by too much oil in the dry sump oil tank "burping" back through the tank vent into the intake air runner by the air filter. No part is needed to prevent this, just a properly filled oil tank. You can put on the clean side separator, which is nothing more than an oil tank cap with a stainless mesh to catch the liquid before it gets to the intake, if you are feeling particularly paranoid.
In properly-filled vehicles, there is also a growing trend of oil pooling/seepage from the PCV recirc in the intake tube causing buildup in both that pipe (heading toward the MAF section) along with manifolds that are coated. Mine was absolutely coated (at 500mi) from TB to head ports in oil, had an oily air tube, and was properly filled, as I dumped the factory oil within the first few days of owning the car.
But regardless, it was more in good fun. I run the huge LMR can and deleted the entire PCV system, so I guess I'm one of the tin-foil, third level paranoid crowd.
06-07-2014, 07:28 PM
#178
Racer
Re Items 1 and 2: I tighened the two pieces together with enough force so they would not separate when turned to remove. To install, I found all I had to do was grab the plastic trim where the barb hit and pull it up with my left hand while turning the "separator" clockwise to tighten. You do have to remove the hose to fill with oil but it slips on-off easily. Item 5, package came with 2 clamps which may be all that are needed. We use those constant tension clamps in our business so had extra I used in the install. Made 8 page PDF with pics of the install: http://netwelding.com/catch_can.pdf
I did try your tip about pulling the plastic up but could not get the hose barb to clear the metal lip under the plastic cover. I guess all cars are not created equal? The only way I could get the separator installed was to remove the barb as mentioned above.
I also tried to tighten the two pieces but they continued to separate whenever I attempted to remove the separator. I can live with this as it should only need to come off once a year or so.
On the tension clamps I had some extra as well but had the opportunity to complain so thought I would for the heck of it.
Thanks.
06-07-2014, 07:44 PM
#179
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Jerry- I found your tech tips and they were very useful installing the catch can and clean air separator. Many thanks for that and other tips on your site.
I did try your tip about pulling the plastic up but could not get the hose barb to clear the metal lip under the plastic cover. I guess all cars are not created equal? The only way I could get the separator installed was to remove the barb as mentioned above.
I also tried to tighten the two pieces but they continued to separate whenever I attempted to remove the separator. I can live with this as it should only need to come off once a year or so.
On the tension clamps I had some extra as well but had the opportunity to complain so thought I would for the heck of it.
Thanks.
I did try your tip about pulling the plastic up but could not get the hose barb to clear the metal lip under the plastic cover. I guess all cars are not created equal? The only way I could get the separator installed was to remove the barb as mentioned above.
I also tried to tighten the two pieces but they continued to separate whenever I attempted to remove the separator. I can live with this as it should only need to come off once a year or so.
On the tension clamps I had some extra as well but had the opportunity to complain so thought I would for the heck of it.
Thanks.
Last edited by JerryU; 06-07-2014 at 07:47 PM.
