eboggs_jkvl

Yepper! That is the way to do it for the vert.


Elmer

KenHorse

I bought a 25' black telephone cable with RJ11's on each end. As my Escort uses an RJ11 for the power connector and doesn't pull that much current, it'll work fine and hide easily

djseto

How did you "pull the outlet out"? I won't wanna remove my front console nor or mess with the rear fuse box and having to remove trim.

Rad22

You can pull up the carpet without tearing it. If you work your hand carefully under the carpet from the middle of the back edge closest to the rear of the car and push it up from nearly the center of the luggage compartment with your outstretched arm (creating a "tent"), it will pull out from under the edge along the wheel well without tearing. I've done it a couple of times without incident for different projects. A local service tech at my dealer showed me this trick.

sotirisf

one of the problems in todays cars is using uncommon grounds.
even if the voltage is low- when you ground that to an uncommon point on the frame, you can induce an electrical glitch in either the component you are attaching, or in the onboard systems.
Traditionally you should only ground to the battery of a car to eliminate any ground induced glitches, or if you are tapping voltage from a circuit- grounding to the same point on the frame as the other components on that circuit are reduces the probability of electronic gremlins. The points on the car that are used as factory grounding points are not chosen randomly. A cars frame and electrical systems is akin to a nervous system when you factor in all the components in todays hypermodern computerized automobiles.
Really, the car adapter is your best option when you consider grounding and switched electrical supply. Thats what the circuit was intended for and it doesnt matter that you are cutting into the harness to tap into both hot and ground as long as the connection to the harness is electrically stable.

LIE2ME

A YouTube video would be PERFECT 'bout now...

Rad22

No prob. I'll try to do that tomorrow or as soon as I have a chance.

I am working nights this week.

onthebottom

Video > 10 Picture > 1,000 words

Tulsaeasyrider

Would really like more info on this approach. Seems like less complicated and will result in having a switched curcuit.

TeamSpeed

Is there any way to access any powered harness in the headliner or even down in the footwell area?

If so, I am sure I can construct a product that would fit the C7 application to make this much easier. I can make any length Invisicord as well.

Perhaps its time to sell my 2011 SS w/9K miles and get a C7? (wife would kill me though)

Glenmcp

The socket slides inside a surrounding sleeve. You have to pull the socket out of the sleeve. As the two come apart they "unlock". I used an allen wrench to hook into a slot in the socket.

JerryU

Saw someone who posted getting at the accessory plug, much bigger job than going to the rear #37 fuse, which is for that plug! I also wanted the detector mounted high on the windshield and and routing wires under the "A" piller molding and along the bottom molding is straight forward. Used a piece of D shaped molding along the top of the widnshield. Full details with pcs on my web site: netwelding.com/reports_vette_info.htm

KenHorse

I wired mine to the front acc. socket and it took more time to actually tap the wires than it did to remove and replace the console bezel (which is ridiculously easy). The whole job (including running the wire from the detector to the console) took under half an hour

Greg00Coupe

Ken tell us more......... you tapped the acc socket I hear that.... do use run an inline fuse?

I'm looking to add 3 accessories.......camera, detector and curb alert and thinging 3 seperate lines off the acc socket????

KenHorse

I wish I had taken some pics but I was too focused on getting it done.

And a big YES! I always fuse wiring close to the source. As such, I used an inline 1 amp quick-blow fuse (my Escort draws a max of 350ma) right at the acc. connector tap point

eboggs_jkvl

Well, the console bezel? Is it the ring and does it still pull off? I'd do that rather than running the wire to the rear.


Elmer

KenHorse

Super easy to remove - only 3 Torx screws to remove the center console armrest (cover) and the rest literally pops off with a panel popper.

This video (about replacing the dash) shows how easy getting at the socket is ( you only need pay attention around the 1:24 to 2:40 mark. It's really much easier than the video shows as well)

eboggs_jkvl

So, side piece on the left, then pry it out?

FlyinLow

Will the mirror tap power setup work with the C7 mirror?

http://www.blendmount.com/mirrortap.html

eboggs_jkvl

No. The C7 does not have 12v in the mirror and there isn't a blendmount for the C7 yet either.

Elmer