Blow dry your C7
#81
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2013
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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CORVETTE TODAY Host
St. Jude Donor'15
You guys just missed my birthday......I don't have a Master Blaster........
#83
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2013
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 25,365
Received 7,753 Likes
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CORVETTE TODAY Host
St. Jude Donor'15
^^^^ Better late than never, AB.
#85
I couldn't get a 48 ElectroLux.[/QUOTE]
Why not...........look here........
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Electrolux-Canister-Vacuum-Model-30-XXX-w-Original-Attachments-/281272855723?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417d2b2cab
Why not...........look here........
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Electrolux-Canister-Vacuum-Model-30-XXX-w-Original-Attachments-/281272855723?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417d2b2cab
#87
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Delmont PA
Posts: 19
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RT 66 Masterblaster
I live a mile from a segment of the PA turnpike RT66 with the posted speed limit is 65. A car wash with 8 bays is only three miles from me and opened a few years back and has a brushless $8 wash and $1.50 qtr wash. The best feature is the 8 different settings the best one is spot free rinse. Once done I hop back onto the highway get up to 70 with cruise. By the time I get down to the 45mph sign my car is almost completely dry. Leaving the doors and hood open in the sun and within a hour not a single drop is on the car or any spots. I'm in heaven. Since the car wash is in the country Greensburg Pa to be exact its never really packed. I wash all 5 of my cars there. I call it my RT66 Masterblaster.
#90
What might I be doing wrong? What tip do you use?
#91
In spending 20 years in the car business you learn lots of shot cuts, some good, some a gimmick. The best trick I learned for just cleaning windows and nothing else is always use newspaper. Your hands look like crap with all the ink but the windows clean w/o streaking (inside and out).
OK, RE: the Master Blaster, I bought one and have used it twice now. Anything worth doing has a technique that makes it work the best for the individual. The 1st time was pretty much a joke with me tripping over the cord and yep, I fell twice walking over ice from the snow storm 3 days prior (oops). 2nd time was much better and I've mastered the switches. Now I just turn on the 1st one (doesn't trip the circuit breaker that way) and still gets the job done. I rapidly wash the whole car (sans the wheels) and rinse it. Then immediately following the last rinse I dry it starting at the roof and do the w/s and back glass then work my way around. Timing is everything to keep down the spotting but got it done. I did the wheels (black) last being careful not to spray water all over the nice dry car then dried them. Total wash and dry including the wheels was probably a half hour give or take 5 minutes.
I use a fake lambs wool mitten (it gets a run through the washing machine after each use) and Mothers car wash detergent. I also use an older mitten for the wheels. I have and used to use the silicon California squeegee but the ridges and curves on the C7 make it difficult to do a great job. If your car spots to easily, maybe it needs a good quality wax job to make a lot of the water bead and blow off easily.
OK, RE: the Master Blaster, I bought one and have used it twice now. Anything worth doing has a technique that makes it work the best for the individual. The 1st time was pretty much a joke with me tripping over the cord and yep, I fell twice walking over ice from the snow storm 3 days prior (oops). 2nd time was much better and I've mastered the switches. Now I just turn on the 1st one (doesn't trip the circuit breaker that way) and still gets the job done. I rapidly wash the whole car (sans the wheels) and rinse it. Then immediately following the last rinse I dry it starting at the roof and do the w/s and back glass then work my way around. Timing is everything to keep down the spotting but got it done. I did the wheels (black) last being careful not to spray water all over the nice dry car then dried them. Total wash and dry including the wheels was probably a half hour give or take 5 minutes.
I use a fake lambs wool mitten (it gets a run through the washing machine after each use) and Mothers car wash detergent. I also use an older mitten for the wheels. I have and used to use the silicon California squeegee but the ridges and curves on the C7 make it difficult to do a great job. If your car spots to easily, maybe it needs a good quality wax job to make a lot of the water bead and blow off easily.
#92
Wow, Mine blows it all the time before I get half way done but that's the whole problem with the Master Blaster, it never seems to get all the water off. It just blows it from one panel to the next and I end up chasing the water across the car. I really hate using this thing and don't anymore. It's a shame because it's brand new and was over $350.00!
I posted a link a few posts back in this thread showing an Adams video showing a way to rinse the car leaving less water behind to blow off/around.
Watch this video especially about the 8:50 mark and on rinsing. You would be surprised how much less water you have to blow off. I then use my Master Blaster. After there will always be a few water spots. Some quick detail spray and a nice microfiber and you're done!!
SHEETING RINSE
#94
Team Owner
Just picked up my TR-Z51 last week,when it comes time for the first bath.It will be done by me by hand. Picked up a good idea on line how to dry your car.They said use a electric grass blower highest blowing power goes for about 100 dollars,you know the stores.DO NOT USE A GAS BLOWER.I believe this is a very good idea,will get those places a towel never gets.R
Then follow with a fine microfiber cloth is part of the wash process.
The way to go!
When you dry with a blower you can leave fine mineral deposit's!
Then anything you happen you miss (which you will) dry's right back on the finish.
esp watch when you blow out cracks or mirror's you can see the deposits dry to the finish
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 08-25-2014 at 08:26 AM.
#95
Corvette fan
#97
Drifting
I'm not sure what you're doing different re: your drying technique. Maybe it's minerals in your water ???
RE: the 'sheeting rinse' technique, I can't explain why but it works! And if you're using the Master Blaster it makes the job a lot easier. Also I can't explain why but the great shine on my car is even better when air drying with the Blaster. After a good wash & sheet rinse & blaster dry, the finish ROCKS ! Could it be the wash soap? Good water? Or maybe that I wash it fast, rinse it immediately and have the dryer already ready to go? Or maybe all of the above
Washing & drying your car is like shaving with an old style safety razor, you adapt your own technique on what works best for you, and leaves the finish (or skin) in the best shape . There's probably no universal BEST answer.
RE: the 'sheeting rinse' technique, I can't explain why but it works! And if you're using the Master Blaster it makes the job a lot easier. Also I can't explain why but the great shine on my car is even better when air drying with the Blaster. After a good wash & sheet rinse & blaster dry, the finish ROCKS ! Could it be the wash soap? Good water? Or maybe that I wash it fast, rinse it immediately and have the dryer already ready to go? Or maybe all of the above
Washing & drying your car is like shaving with an old style safety razor, you adapt your own technique on what works best for you, and leaves the finish (or skin) in the best shape . There's probably no universal BEST answer.
Drying cars with a absorber which are 10 dollars everywhere.
Then follow with a fine microfiber cloth is part of the wash process.
The way to go!
When you dry with a blower you can leave fine mineral deposit's!
Then anything you happen you miss (which you will) dry's right back on the finish.
esp watch when you blow out cracks or mirror's you can see the deposits dry to the finish
Then follow with a fine microfiber cloth is part of the wash process.
The way to go!
When you dry with a blower you can leave fine mineral deposit's!
Then anything you happen you miss (which you will) dry's right back on the finish.
esp watch when you blow out cracks or mirror's you can see the deposits dry to the finish
#98
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
Posts: 10,439
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Tech Contributor
I'll never use a blaster as I like to seal when drying using a drying sealant like duragloss Aquawax, spray it on when car is wet, dry with a single waffle weave after doing the sheeting rinse above and instant sealant. Works very well and saves tons of time. Once car is initially detailed, drying sealants can put years between major details.....
#99
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2012
Location: Gettysburg PA
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2020 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I bought mine from Amazon 2 years ago and love it...... with Prime, there is no shipping charge either. There are several Amazon Prime sources available for the same unit, and the prices vary. Here's one of them.
I use it on the entire car in about 15 or so minutes, then hit the car with a light round of Adams Detail Spray and my double microfiber cloth. You'd swear I just waxed the car.
I use it on the entire car in about 15 or so minutes, then hit the car with a light round of Adams Detail Spray and my double microfiber cloth. You'd swear I just waxed the car.
#100
Burning Brakes
Running at full power (both motors on) the MB draws 18 Amps and therefore will trip 15 Amp circuit breakers. It requires at least a 20 Amp circuit. Many new homes will have at least one 20 Amp outlet in the garage but in my case with an older home, I added a 20 Amp breaker to my electrical panel and ran 12 gauge cable to a new outlet in the garage. A very simple project for anyone with basic knowledge of electrical wiring. It took me less than an hour and minimal materials expense. Now I also have additional capacity for power tools in the garage.