C7 and Valentine One Direct Power
10-25-2013, 11:25 PM
#61
I ended up using fuse 37 in the trunk with a mini sized Add-A-Circuit and the 2 amp fuse that came with the Valentine 1. Running the power lead from the rear fuse box, tucking it under the the passenger cargo side panel and under the trim on the passenger door was a 3 minute job.
Grounded to a screw under the dash right beside the console under the front edge of the dash. Done in 45 minutes...even soldering all the splices.
Works like a charm. With a plastic spudger, tucking the wire around the windshield trim wasn't a big deal at all. Didn't need to remove anything.
Spudger....
Grounded to a screw under the dash right beside the console under the front edge of the dash. Done in 45 minutes...even soldering all the splices.
Works like a charm. With a plastic spudger, tucking the wire around the windshield trim wasn't a big deal at all. Didn't need to remove anything.
Spudger....
10-26-2013, 10:15 AM
#62
After considering the methods previously stated, I found a very easy solution. I used the 12v receptacle in the console (which is on only when the ignition is on)and routed the wiring under the console trim, through the right foot well, under the door jam trim, and under the A pillar and dash to the center of the windshield. The wiring is completely hidden except for one inch where it exits the console under the hinged lid to the console trim. However, this is hidden by the right seat bolster. It was less than a ten minute job!
10-26-2013, 08:58 PM
#63
Advanced
After considering the methods previously stated, I found a very easy solution. I used the 12v receptacle in the console (which is on only when the ignition is on)and routed the wiring under the console trim, through the right foot well, under the door jam trim, and under the A pillar and dash to the center of the windshield. The wiring is completely hidden except for one inch where it exits the console under the hinged lid to the console trim. However, this is hidden by the right seat bolster. It was less than a ten minute job!
How did you mount your V1? I've used Blendmount in the past, but they don't have a C7 mount yet. I found one other place, but will call on Monday to see what they have:
http://www.countryjoycrafts.com/list.html
Thanks again! Great idea.
10-27-2013, 08:35 AM
#64
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,586
Received 9,655 Likes
on
6,652 Posts
After considering the methods previously stated, I found a very easy solution. I used the 12v receptacle in the console (which is on only when the ignition is on)and routed the wiring under the console trim, through the right foot well, under the door jam trim, and under the A pillar and dash to the center of the windshield. The wiring is completely hidden except for one inch where it exits the console under the hinged lid to the console trim. However, this is hidden by the right seat bolster. It was less than a ten minute job!
10-27-2013, 10:06 AM
#65
Sounds like the detector is mounted low on the windshield...not ideal for a V1 to see behind the car.
10-27-2013, 10:48 AM
#66
Yes, it is mounted low on the windshield and I used the 12V receptacle under the console cover. I have good rear reception from the rear. What is blocking the reception, in your opinion?
10-27-2013, 02:42 PM
#67
Le Mans Master
Interesting comment by GM about the wires not being “tap friendly!” That may explain why when I taped into the vanity mirror light 12 volt wires it tripped a breaker! After checking and measuring voltages at all points, it still tripped a breaker. The 2-amp fuse to the Passport Max was fine! Was it the detector current surge when starting? Is GM using small gauge wires since they have LED lights and limiting any extra current by triping a breaker?
Michael
10-27-2013, 02:44 PM
#68
[QUOTE=sccaracer46;1585278740]Yes, it is mounted low on the windshield and I used the 12V receptacle under the console cover. I have good rear reception from the rear. What is blocking the reception, in your opinion?[/QUOTE]
The Rear of the car from the Third brake light down.
Even from the front view the higher it is the Farther it will pick up signals. That's why they recommend to mount it as high as possible.
The Rear of the car from the Third brake light down.
Even from the front view the higher it is the Farther it will pick up signals. That's why they recommend to mount it as high as possible.
10-27-2013, 03:57 PM
#69
[QUOTE=C7 101 car;1585280321]
If you mount the detector on the mirror it is only 6 inches higher than mounting it on the windshield a couple of inches above the dash. I doubt this small difference will have a discernible difference in effectiveness.
Yes, it is mounted low on the windshield and I used the 12V receptacle under the console cover. I have good rear reception from the rear. What is blocking the reception, in your opinion?[/QUOTE]
The Rear of the car from the Third brake light down.
Even from the front view the higher it is the Farther it will pick up signals. That's why they recommend to mount it as high as possible.
The Rear of the car from the Third brake light down.
Even from the front view the higher it is the Farther it will pick up signals. That's why they recommend to mount it as high as possible.
10-27-2013, 04:49 PM
#70
[QUOTE=sccaracer46;1585280713]
I mounted it on windshield (as high as I could) with just enough straight line rear view to clear the mirror. The bottom of the V1 is 7" above the dash.
This is what the V1 instructions says ......"Detector performance is enhanced by a high mounting position. Two reasons. For radar, a longer sight line to the horizon always helps. For laser, moving away from the hood and its sun reflections helps a lot."
This is what the V1 instructions says ......"Detector performance is enhanced by a high mounting position. Two reasons. For radar, a longer sight line to the horizon always helps. For laser, moving away from the hood and its sun reflections helps a lot."
Last edited by C7 101 car; 10-27-2013 at 05:00 PM.
11-04-2013, 12:46 AM
#71
7th Gear
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Fort Lauderdale Florida
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it's just over a week since my detector was hard-wired .. similarly to others discussed and no problem so far. The differences: a) used the center console receptacle; but the Best Buy mobile tech guy DID tap into it properly from the behind the receptacle, so it's invisible as well as leaves the socket still available for use; and b) though one may prefer to mount the detector high, he fashion a plastic mount to offset the dash curvature; and it's mounted to the left of the dash cluster; just above line-of-sight with the 'speedo'; hence less moving of eyes to see the screen of the detector. He contends that given the 'radiator angle' on the C7 and the car being composite materials; there is little to be gained from a higher mount. However; even if I were to (and I might in the future) run it all the way up the A pillar; the point of wiring it carefully (using proper trim tools, so there is no mark on the plastic) to the center console govebox receptacle is valid; regardless of ultimate detector placement.
11-04-2013, 01:18 AM
#72
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I drove over to my trusted Raleigh audio/radar store today. He ran my Valentine One wires along the top windshield trim, down the A pillar, around the curve at the bottom and back along the side of the dash. Dropped it down to the SAVVY unit stuck in the OBD port and we kept the remote display/mute velcroed to the left hand dash, just below the trunk release button. Very clean and no disassembly required. He used two little plastic tools (a wedge push stick and a tiny crowbar) to pull back the edge of the trim pieces from the window a bit and push the wire in. The excess wire was just shoved behind the left front kick panel. No hanging wires, no tools, no power taps. The Valentine SAVVY accessory is definitely the way to go in this car. Not only does it give you automatic On/Off power, but it lets you set a minimum speed for sounding alarms. I put mine at 35 and never have to listen to falsies when going through store parking lots or decelerating to a stoplight. I had been worried because I didn't see the unit shut off power when I exited the car. It actually waits for 5-10 minutes and then shuts down. It fires up as soon as you open the door again. The guy at the store told me he would not have tapped a wire for me if I didn't have the SAVVY. He had been reading tales of woe from people reporting that they had tripped fuses and short-circuited power devices in C7's. But he didn't have details on where he saw this or what the exact problems were. I would have thought we would see such things reported on this forum if anywhere!
11-04-2013, 06:53 AM
#73
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,586
Received 9,655 Likes
on
6,652 Posts
Sounds like you’re tapped into non-switched 12-volt power. The Corvette shuts down most power after 5 to 10 minutes so you won’t run the battery down-great feature. Recall in my ’87 Vette I switched on my reading light and forgot to shut it off. Since it stayed on for a minute or two after the door was shut-it was left on. Next morning, dead battery! Once you completely drain a lead acid battery, you shorten its life.
One forum thread said their dealer was replacing a cracked mirror cover and called GM to see if they could splice into a 12 volt mirror wire for a radar detector. They were warned the wires are not “tap friendly.” That reinforced why when I taped into the sunshade mirror light wires for detector power, it tripped the circuit breaker when I plugged in the Passport Max (double checked all wireing and measured voltages and it did it again!) Apparently it detected the inrush current and tripped the breaker. It came back on a short while later! Since the Vette uses all LED lights, which use very low current, it appears it doesn't like supplying more! Needed a high current circuit to tap, like the 20 amp auxiliary plug. I finally used an add-a-circuit in the #37 fuse in the rear panel. It is the fuse that powers the auxiliary receptacle on the console. No need to take the console apart. Just run the wires, as the installer did, but use a long wire tucked under the carpet molding along the door and up and under the rear mat. Details at www.netwelding.com/Reports_Vette_Info.com
I mounted the detector high to eliminate any visual obstruction to the road. Had always used a visor mount but it is not available for the Passport Max. Their new "Sticky Mount" works great.
One forum thread said their dealer was replacing a cracked mirror cover and called GM to see if they could splice into a 12 volt mirror wire for a radar detector. They were warned the wires are not “tap friendly.” That reinforced why when I taped into the sunshade mirror light wires for detector power, it tripped the circuit breaker when I plugged in the Passport Max (double checked all wireing and measured voltages and it did it again!) Apparently it detected the inrush current and tripped the breaker. It came back on a short while later! Since the Vette uses all LED lights, which use very low current, it appears it doesn't like supplying more! Needed a high current circuit to tap, like the 20 amp auxiliary plug. I finally used an add-a-circuit in the #37 fuse in the rear panel. It is the fuse that powers the auxiliary receptacle on the console. No need to take the console apart. Just run the wires, as the installer did, but use a long wire tucked under the carpet molding along the door and up and under the rear mat. Details at www.netwelding.com/Reports_Vette_Info.com
I mounted the detector high to eliminate any visual obstruction to the road. Had always used a visor mount but it is not available for the Passport Max. Their new "Sticky Mount" works great.
Last edited by JerryU; 11-04-2013 at 09:08 AM.
11-04-2013, 07:30 AM
#74
Team Owner
You mean that it doesn't look that good! I would just plug the thing in the lighter plug for now. Till someone figures out how to get power from the mirror. It's there and the screws on the back is a good place to start. Then looks like the rear look for the detector is blocked.
From the picture!
From the picture!
11-04-2013, 08:36 AM
#75
I was wondering why all the effort to find a power supply when its easier to use the Valentine SAVVY connector to the OBD port. Power only when the car is on, no cutting wires or running long lengths of cord, and you can have the option to automatically remain muted at lower speeds or not at all.
11-04-2013, 09:01 AM
#76
Le Mans Master
I was wondering why all the effort to find a power supply when its easier to use the Valentine SAVVY connector to the OBD port. Power only when the car is on, no cutting wires or running long lengths of cord, and you can have the option to automatically remain muted at lower speeds or not at all.
Thats exactly what I did. SAVVY....way too easy and cord tucks behind roof piller, A panel. Out of sight.
11-04-2013, 09:01 AM
#77
Burning Brakes
I was wondering why all the effort to find a power supply when its easier to use the Valentine SAVVY connector to the OBD port. Power only when the car is on, no cutting wires or running long lengths of cord, and you can have the option to automatically remain muted at lower speeds or not at all.
No pictures of the pillars because they just look like pillars. No exposed wiring once it was pushed and tucked carefully under them.
11-04-2013, 09:24 AM
#78
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,586
Received 9,655 Likes
on
6,652 Posts
You mean that it doesn't look that good! I would just plug the thing in the lighter plug for now. Till someone figures out how to get power from the mirror. It's there and the screws on the back is a good place to start. Then looks like the rear look for the detector is blocked.
From the picture!
From the picture!
In any case, did just as you said and used the supplied Smart Cord in the console auxiliary plug. Finally used the direct wire plug and ran the wires along the top molding and tucked under the “A” pillar molding and floor carpet molding to the 20 amp fuse that powers that console auxiliary. Used an Add-A-Circuit with a 2 amp mini-fuse. It looks fine. Mounted the Passport Max high on the windshield. See link in my above thread for my install details.
Last edited by JerryU; 11-04-2013 at 09:29 AM.
11-24-2013, 10:12 AM
#79
Advanced
Member Since: Oct 2013
Location: Jackson Tn
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone tried the mirror mount tm sold on amazon on their C7 yet? I have a V1 with the Savvy accessory and was able to easliy hide the wires as others have described. Currently I'm using the suction cups but really hate it. Blendmount has yet to offer something for C7 but the mirror mount looks somewhat universal.
11-24-2013, 05:20 PM
#80
Advanced
V1 Mount
I found a great V1 mount on eBay for $22.95. I bought two. It works great in my other car as well. The quality was just like Blendmount. FYI, I'll get the Blendmount when it becomes available, but in the meantime, this works great! The one big suction cup is just under the black cluster behind the mirror. It looks very professional. Pics to follow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111154414582?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D111154414582%26_rdc%3D1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111154414582?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D111154414582%26_rdc%3D1