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[Z06] Help: Car slow to start, CEL and Service TCS On
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I have people telling me the oil level could be low, I haven't checked it. It was changed in April and the car has not been driven more than 3k miles since then so I couldn't believe that it would be so low as to cause this problem. I told them to check it and call me.
They won't know how to check it, and even if they did they can't -- it's cold.
What they should do is replace the sensor that the stored code indicated. If that doesn't work they should drain the oil and check for metal. Of course, being a typical GM dealer they won't know how to put the oil back in (probably won't know how to drain it all either). Good luck
They must have a helpdesk list of things to mention to you before they actually find the problem. Low/no oil would lead to a seized engine which i feel would have been a much more spectacular story up until this point.
Like Mark2009 said they couldn't check it even if they knew how because the car isn't running.
Well they just called me and told me to not bother bringing a battery. The tech put a new one in and the car still will not start at all. I told them to check the oil level and to look into the crank position sensor more...I have nothing installed in the OBDII, and now it won't even crank.
Stock tune on the car? Intially after I had my rebuild I had a hot start condition ( i.e. ran the car for a bit up to temp, let it sit for 15 min or less, car wouldn't fire, it turned over, but no fire. After about 30 min or so to cool down, no problems) this was after the initial first tune. I brought it back and they played with the amount of air / fuel during the start. I haven't had an issue since.
Your problem is definitely a little different than mine now because my car still starts cold. The thing I keep coming back to in my mind is the dead tach (in both of our cases). Looking at it from an engineering perspective, whatever the input to the tach is, it's obviously failing, and we both have picture proof. I'm guessing that input is the crank position sensor, but I don't know for sure. Whatever it is though, that's the pathway to the answer.
Well...they left a message this morning and said not to bother with the battery as they put a new one in and it still won't start. I was like wellll duh. So I let them work on it all day and I call them at 4:30 this afternoon and what do they say? Oh it is the battery. Wtf are they smoking? Im picking it up tomorrow because they clearly have no idea what they are doing.
From the information I saw, if p0335 or p0336 are thrown, the ecm may rely on the cam sensor for engine position.
Thanks! I started digging based on your response and found some interesting stuff (links below). I can't validate any of this but it seems like good info.
A few people have had this problem and it looks like there are two typical causes, 1) bad crank position sensor, 2) bad cam sensor. One supporting vendor says that if the car won't start at all, it's the crank sensor (sounds like your problem Rissa); if it starts but hard, it's more likely the cam sensor (sounds like my problem). LG Motorsports listed one additional cause - incorrect wiring of the cam sensor or installation of the wrong cam gear during an engine swap. (seems more rare though)
One person who had symptoms of the crank sensor issue replaced the starter and it was fixed. Don't know if this is the case with the vette, but I know in many other cars the crank sensor is located in the starter. So if that's the case the fix was actually replacement of the crank sensor.
Two other people with symptoms of the bad cam sensor replaced just that sensor and their problems were solved.
So Rissa if your car is still at the dealership it may not hurt to ask them to replace the crank sensor.
Thank you for the info. My car began as hard to start for a while, now no starting at all but I'm gonna see if I can get it started so I can bring it home.
My car hard started for awhile and it was the cam sensor. This case there is a crank sensor code, not a cam sensor code.
Crank sensor is in the block, 1 bolt, 1 plug, above the starter.
Hole on the side of the block in the left side of this picture is where the crank sensor goes. Sensor goes in the hole and 1 bolt to the right of it holds it in.
The dealership is a bunch of morons, I'm going to try to give them a bad review, or if there is some survey I can take I'm definitely going to let them know how I feel. I'm picking up a battery at my lunch. They say they are going to "charge my bad/dead battery" enough so that I can get the car, and they were real dicks about it. They've had the car for 4 days and nothing has come of it except a lot of contradicting answers. I would like for a new battery to fix the problem, but I also would like it to be something else so that I could tell them I told you so. Idiots.
Vehicle with slow start:
1.Battery with low cranking amps
*2.Battery with a bad cell (can cause all sorts of issues)
*3.Loose ground on frame or block
4.Loose Starter connections
5.Loose Battery connections
Vehicle that just cranks over and over but no start:
( I always recommend replacing both especially when you have a crank or cam sensor code.)
*1.Crank sensor
2.Cam sensor
Vehicle starts on cold starts but doesn't when it's hot:
*1.Crank sensor
No RPM signal would be crank sensor and on the hesitation part I've had a cam sensor fail.
Car is currently at another dealership. I took it home thursday, they were able to jump start it. I bought a new battery and put it in that night, it started but was still a little slow. Friday it started up just fine. I turned it off and on again a few times and it seemed ok, drove it around a little. I parked it across the street from my house and went to move it a few minutes later and it wouldn't turn over at all. Just went click click click. I had to get it jumped again and drove it to another place 4 miles from me. Waiting to hear their diagnoses...
Car is currently at another dealership. I took it home thursday, they were able to jump start it. I bought a new battery and put it in that night, it started but was still a little slow. Friday it started up just fine. I turned it off and on again a few times and it seemed ok, drove it around a little. I parked it across the street from my house and went to move it a few minutes later and it wouldn't turn over at all. Just went click click click. I had to get it jumped again and drove it to another place 4 miles from me. Waiting to hear their diagnoses...
I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be my starter motor.
My car hard started for awhile and it was the cam sensor. This case there is a crank sensor code, not a cam sensor code.
Crank sensor is in the block, 1 bolt, 1 plug, above the starter.
Hole on the side of the block in the left side of this picture is where the crank sensor goes. Sensor goes in the hole and 1 bolt to the right of it holds it in.
Thanks man, great info. I saw you had similar problems when I was digging through old threads.
Rissa any word? If the starter doesn't fix it, I think you're at a point where you need to assertively tell them they need to look at a new crank or cam sensor. You've got a lot of people in here who are all pointing to those options. Hell I'd tell them that too. Good luck.
08-06-2014, 12:10 PM
this is my baby and she's at the hospital lol.
