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[Z06] C6Z....Power Adder?!?!?

Old 07-27-2014, 01:20 PM
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Default C6Z....Power Adder?!?!?

I've done a little research, but nothing popped up to answer my question. I'm looking to add a power adder but don't know whether to go with an AA Supercharger 5-6psi or Nitrous Outlet 150 shot. My goal is to make at least 700RWHP. I'm currently sitting at a little over 600 with Heads/ Big Cam + supporting mods.
Old 07-27-2014, 01:27 PM
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Rupert pupkin
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cam needs to be blower friendly to run the S/C. Im sure you already knew that. I would do S/C and get 700 all day (which I will be doing)
Old 07-27-2014, 01:32 PM
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I'm now 720whp with my H/C and D1 @ 4 PSI everything is fine after solving all belt issues.
Old 07-27-2014, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by baro0k@eXtermination
I'm now 720whp with my H/C and D1 @ 4 PSI everything is fine after solving all belt issues.
I was reading up on that. What did you do to solve the issue?
Old 07-27-2014, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rupert pupkin
cam needs to be blower friendly to run the S/C. Im sure you already knew that. I would do S/C and get 700 all day (which I will be doing)
not true, plenty of guys running huge N/A cams with a blower and laying down some serious power, i am putting down over 750 with a N/A cam with a D1SC.
Old 07-27-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RatedZ06
I've done a little research, but nothing popped up to answer my question. I'm looking to add a power adder but don't know whether to go with an AA Supercharger 5-6psi or Nitrous Outlet 150 shot. My goal is to make at least 700RWHP. I'm currently sitting at a little over 600 with Heads/ Big Cam + supporting mods.
What are your uses for the car? Drag strip, street racing? Dig or roll? Weekend cruiser and you just want to play?

Here is my thought. A nitrous car will beat a blower car 9 out of 10 times if they are near the same hp. Why? Tq and weight. Nitrous adds about 30 lbs to the car, a blower is about 100. Nitrous adds more tq. The power out of the hole will be better if you can stick it.

The down sides are that it runs out and it can be harder on a motor if done incorrectly. Window switches are a must on a manual. Timing retard boxes are not expensive and make life so much easier than having to switch tunes or drive around on a nitrous tune when not spraying. Wot switches are great as well. Progressive control is nice for the street or big shots at the track. LNC 2000 + NOS mini 2 + Nitrous outlet plate kit... you'll be in the neighborhood of 775 rwhp and 750 tq I'd think on a 150 if you're 600+ now.

Also that nos mini has the wot and window switch abilities within it, so for 250 it's a good deal. Remember to get a bottle heater and a pressure switch as well, or check out the nano system.
Old 07-27-2014, 07:16 PM
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I to have seen guys put a blower on a n/a combo and do well as long as it's stock compression . If your heads are milled just leave it as is and go n20 . You just got some solid n20 advise .
Old 07-27-2014, 08:09 PM
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I made 701/667 with a medium grind cam, stock heads, stock intake, and stock throttle body on a 100 shot.

My new cam will be a 24x/25x and I'll hit it with 100 out of the hole and progressive 125-150 on top of that for giggles. I have a Nitrous Outlet dual 102 plate now and look forward to it.
Old 07-27-2014, 08:26 PM
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Ive never had nitrous, but Ive had twin turbos and superchargers, and with these high horsepower n/a motors Im starting to lean more towards the nitrous bc I remember the nightmares that turbos and superchargers bring.. I dont need the extra power all the time, but when the juice is on its usually faster then superchargers and turbos..A properly setup nitrous system is far from cheap though.. Last time I checked it was about $3k in parts for the 102 plate kit I was going to get, and another $1k to set it all up. although, there is something cool very cool about a blower, and they are pretty simple especially under 1k hp.

Last edited by TT32VGT; 07-27-2014 at 08:34 PM.
Old 07-27-2014, 10:22 PM
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ECS kit, or a n2o outlet kit.

Just depends, if you have the budget to do the blower, go for it, but n2o is hard to beat, no cooling issues, no belt issues, just spray and go.
Old 07-28-2014, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gregs94
not true, plenty of guys running huge N/A cams with a blower and laying down some serious power, i am putting down over 750 with a N/A cam with a D1SC.
Are you making those numbers on pump 93?
Old 07-28-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Chance42
What are your uses for the car? Drag strip, street racing? Dig or roll? Weekend cruiser and you just want to play?

Here is my thought. A nitrous car will beat a blower car 9 out of 10 times if they are near the same hp. Why? Tq and weight. Nitrous adds about 30 lbs to the car, a blower is about 100. Nitrous adds more tq. The power out of the hole will be better if you can stick it.

The down sides are that it runs out and it can be harder on a motor if done incorrectly. Window switches are a must on a manual. Timing retard boxes are not expensive and make life so much easier than having to switch tunes or drive around on a nitrous tune when not spraying. Wot switches are great as well. Progressive control is nice for the street or big shots at the track. LNC 2000 + NOS mini 2 + Nitrous outlet plate kit... you'll be in the neighborhood of 775 rwhp and 750 tq I'd think on a 150 if you're 600+ now.

Also that nos mini has the wot and window switch abilities within it, so for 250 it's a good deal. Remember to get a bottle heater and a pressure switch as well, or check out the nano system.
I'll be doing a little of everything....Drag/Street racing, Dig/Roll, and weekend cruiser as well 750+/750+ would be nice on a 150 shot. I just want it to be reliable and safe.
Old 07-28-2014, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RatedZ06
Are you making those numbers on pump 93?
Yes I am pump 93 with a little bit of meth.
Old 07-28-2014, 10:42 AM
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I'd go with nitrous but thats because I haven't been really impressed with centri cars. But like mentioned above, nitrous is about 3k in parts if you go all out and don't skimp so its not as cheap as you would think.
Old 07-28-2014, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RatedZ06
I'll be doing a little of everything....Drag/Street racing, Dig/Roll, and weekend cruiser as well 750+/750+ would be nice on a 150 shot. I just want it to be reliable and safe.
I don't know if you can do 750+whp/wtq and be reliable and safe on a non-forged, stock LS7. Most shops that put boost to them don't hit 750/750, and I can't see why nitrous would be different. FI breaks stuff fast if you get greedy.

Last edited by Silver Bullet C6; 07-28-2014 at 08:09 PM.
Old 07-28-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver Bullet C6
I don't know if you can do 750+whp/wtq and be reliable and safe on a non-forged, stock LS7. Most shops that put boost to them don't hit 750/750, and I can't see why nitrous would be different. FI breaks stuff fast if you get greedy.
So nitrous would be a better route to take?
Old 07-28-2014, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RatedZ06
So nitrous would be a better route to take?
I have had a blower LS3 Vette since 2009, and I love it. However, having gone H/C/I on my Z06 I will go with nitrous if I want more power (100 shot Nitrous Outlet). I love how the Z stays cool in Texas heat and I want to make sure it stays that way (S/C will require an intercooler in front of your radiator). A 700whp/wtq Z with proper traction (very important) will feast on a lot of cars, and stay together for a while with a proper tune.

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To C6Z....Power Adder?!?!?

Old 07-28-2014, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver Bullet C6
I have had a blower LS3 Vette since 2009, and I love it. However, having gone H/C/I on my Z06 I will go with nitrous if I want more power (100 shot Nitrous Outlet). I love how the Z stays cool in Texas heat and I want to make sure it stays that way (S/C will require an intercooler in front of your radiator). A 700whp/wtq Z with proper traction (very important) will feast on a lot of cars, and stay together for a while with a proper tune.
Ok, thanks for the 1st hand experience knowledge. I was leanging towards nitrous as i kept reading and watch videos of nitrous cars performing pretty D*** good.
Old 07-28-2014, 08:50 PM
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I will say it again . You say your at 600 with meth and 93 . If you milled your heads to achieve this go n20 . The added compression will not be blower friendly . If not it comes down to preference . N20 is no less headache . It's a lot of work like any other power adder . The reason people tend to run better with n20 is progressive and multistage systems . Lots of people bolt on 200 hp worth of blower and blow the tires off . I don't know why no more people don't run multi stage boost controllers and tunable soft ware of choice . That way boost can be ramped each gear along with timing ect ... Power is only as useful if applied to the ground . Most people change combos like clothes instead of ironing it out with test hits and seat time
Old 07-28-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BOO666
I will say it again . You say your at 600 with meth and 93 . If you milled your heads to achieve this go n20 . The added compression will not be blower friendly . If not it comes down to preference . N20 is no less headache . It's a lot of work like any other power adder . The reason people tend to run better with n20 is progressive and multistage systems . Lots of people bolt on 200 hp worth of blower and blow the tires off . I don't know why no more people don't run multi stage boost controllers and tunable soft ware of choice . That way boost can be ramped each gear along with timing ect ... Power is only as useful if applied to the ground . Most people change combos like clothes instead of ironing it out with test hits and seat time
I'm on straight 93 no meth. But you do have a point about compression being raised wish isn't exactlt blower friendly with an LS7. So I think i pretty much answered my own question with the help from you guys here on the forum as well.

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